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After the forest fires in France, Greece, Italy and the USA, many winemakers in the affected areas are faced with the challenge of pressing wines without undesirable smoky aromas. Oenology consultant Matthieu Dubernet gives tips on how to do this: "The first thing to do is to identify the plots where the smoke has passed. For this, winemakers can also use satellite images. It is very likely that the vines over which the ash clouds passed have picked up aromatic molecules that give the wine a smoky flavour." The berries should be tasted and preferably also analysed. In any case, the contaminated lots must be vinified separately. "On the must, the molecules responsible for the smoky aromas can combine with the sugar and become temporarily milder," Matthieu Dubernet explains. A long maceration on the berry skins should also be avoided. If the separated batches do not show any defects even after several months of maturation, they can be cut back again. Fining with charcoal can help, but often takes away other desirable aromas from the wine. Matthieu Dubernet is lobbying the OIV to introduce reverse osmosis and resin filtration, which are more efficient and less dangerous.
(al / source: vitisphere; photo: Wikipedia)