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The French winemaker Michel Chapoutier ***** suggested at a conference to treat wines with excessive alcohol and maturity with water. He does not speak of "watering down" but of "rehydration". "The problem we face is that the sugar content, that is the physiological ripeness, increases very quickly. But that doesn't mean that phenolic ripeness is progressing." He says his proposal aims to restore the balance between the two ripening components: "Because: how high can the alcohol content still be in the face of climate change?"
Chapoutier explains his proposal with an example: "I have a vineyard with a potential production of 40 hl/ha. To achieve ripe tannins, I have to wait until I lose so much volume through evaporation that the yield drops to 34 hl/ha. Why shouldn't I be allowed to bring back some of what I have lost through evaporation?" For wines from the "ultra-concentrated" 2003 vintage, he said he often added "a teaspoon of water to the glass" to regain lightness and finesse.
Commentators noted that it was possible for any consumer to add water or ice cubes to the wine in the glass. However, the authorities are not currently considering allowing the rehydration of wines. In some overseas countries, however, the use of water in winemaking is widespread.
(al / Source: vitisphere; Photo: chapoutier.com)