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Winemaker Jean-Michel Deiss from Domaine Marcel Deiss in Alsace is planting Syrah, Grenache, Terret, Counoise and Cinsault this spring. "The Alsatian climate is changing and is getting closer to that of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I am continuing to develop while preserving my identity," says Deiss, explaining this unusual step. Pinot Noir is already reaching its limits there. The chosen grape varieties suit the warm microclimate of the Schloessleberg site near Rouffach (not to be confused with the Grand Cru Schlossberg site), which harbours Mediterranean vegetation with its limestone soils.
Deiss, who works biodynamically, will plant Syrah and Grenache on one hectare, not as a single variety but mixed with Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. In this old practice known as "complantation", different grape varieties are harvested at the same time and vinified together. In Austria and Germany, such wines are known as 'Gemischter Satz'. This is intended to emphasise the terroir over the grape varieties. At the same time, the diversity strengthens the immunity of the vines and provides insurance against climatic extremes such as frost, as the flowering times are different, explained Deiss. He is also thinking about planting Mourvèdre.
(al / Source: La Revue du Vin de France)