For a long time, the 50th parallel was considered the northern limit for quality viticulture, Champagne the northernmost wine region in Europe. Those days are over, wine is now produced in Schleswig-Holstein and on Sylt, in England and Denmark, even in Sweden. Champagne has been able to benefit from the effects of climate change longer than anywhere else. The grapes now reach the right ripeness almost effortlessly every year. Between 2003 and 2019 alone, there were five harvests in Champagne that began as early as August, instead of the usual end of September. "We used to be able to make a Dom Ruinart maybe five times in ten years, now it works about eight times," reports Louise Bryden, winemaker and project manager at Ruinart.