Roussillon is France's hottest region. In the past two years, the rainfall there has been as low as in the Sahara. Winegrowers are developing strategies to combat drought stress and failed harvests.
It is little more than a trickle that creeps through the landscape. The Têt is actually one of the three main rivers in Roussillon, the Catalan south of France. But it has been lacking water for over two years. "We've only had around 220 millimetres of rainfall since September," reports winegrower Serge Baux, "and that's already ten per cent more than the year before." So far, the average amount of precipitation in the region has been a good 570 millimetres per year.
Roussillon resembles an amphitheatre that opens up towards the Mediterranean in the east. It is bordered by mountains in the other three cardinal points: the Pyrenees in the south, Albères in the west and Corbières in the north. The inhabitants have adapted to the hot, Mediterranean climate with around 316 days of sunshine a year, as well as to the eight winds that blow partly from the land and partly from the sea. A variety of different terroirs produce wines full of character. Their balance is ensured by the altitude, the type of soil, very early morning harvesting and vinification, which is usually carried out with refrigeration.
Landscape near Saleilles close to the Mediterranean coast
Carsten M. Stammen"Farming in Roussillon is a challenge," says Eric Aracil, Vice President of the regional wine association (CIVR). It is true that the Buscherziehung vines, which are common there, can protect the grapes from the sun and heat. However, the massive drought puts plants and people to a particularly tough test. This is because it rains far too little in the summer and winter months. This means permanent drought stress for the vines and the soil is unable to regenerate.
"Many vines don't even sprout and old vines die," complains Rémi Sisquelle from the Château de Rey vineyard. The reason: "The water cycle is interrupted." This leads to harvest losses: according to La Revue du Vin de France, the harvest in Roussillon fell from 42 hectolitres per hectare in 2012 to 26 hectolitres per hectare in 2023. "We harvested 40 per cent fewer grapes last year," confirms Nastassia Dobritz from Domaine Gardiès. The situation is similar at many other wineries.
Alain Razungles from Domaine des Chênes, Professor Emeritus of Oenology at the University of Montpellier, explains how the vines react to the drought stress: "Vines have a memory for the weather conditions in their lifetime. Very old vines therefore recognise early indicators of heat and drought and adapt their growth behaviour accordingly. If they recognise such dangers, they close up and stop growing to protect themselves."
There are "pessimistic" and "optimistic" grape varieties. "Carignan is more pessimistic," says Razungles. "After two dry years in a row, the shoots may only grow to a length of 15 centimetres. If the drought continues, the vine may not produce any shoots at all next year." Syrah, on the other hand, is rather optimistic: "In dry years, the shoots may only grow 20 or 50 centimetres less. This means the vine still has reserves to survive longer."
When asked about strategies for dealing with drought stress, Razungles has several approaches at the ready: "Firstly, deep-rooted vines that are more likely to reach groundwater even in dry periods." This seems easier said than done, as the groundwater level in the region continues to drop. In addition, seawater sometimes even penetrates inland through the almost dry riverbeds, which also leads to soil salinisation.
Razungles' second suggestion: "Grape varieties that are less sensitive to drought and heat, such as those from Greece, Portugal or Spain." Several winegrowers, such as Domaine Gardiès, have already come up with this idea. "We were looking for grapes that are heat-resistant and produce less alcohol," explains Nastassia Dobritz. Gardiès now cultivates Torbato - known as Tourbat in France - as well as Xarello and Assyrtiko, among others. Corsican or Sardinian varieties could also be considered.
Serge Baux from the Mas Baux winery also favours grape varieties that require less water. His choice also fell on Xarello: "The variety ripens early and bears well." Baux recently grafted one hectare of Syrah vines with Xarello. If the trial works, he wants to cut off the Syrah shoots later.
It is interesting to note that the "new" grape varieties mentioned are all white. The winegrowers are thus taking account of the white wine trend that can be observed everywhere in Roussillon. The region, which is traditionally known for its full-bodied red wines, may therefore be on the verge of a strategic change. Serge Baux even wants to produce a Mourvèdre Blanc de Noirs this year.
Thomas Mangin from the Torredemer Mangin winery is also considering growing Xarello. He points out a historical aspect: "20 or 30 years ago, grape varieties were planted in Roussillon that sold well. Today, it turns out that they may be too sensitive to heat and drought in the long term."
Vineyard near Latour-de-France in the Corbières-Fenouillèdes nature park
Carsten M. StammenRémi Sisquelle from Château de Rey sees two main ways of dealing with the drought stress. Firstly, he relies on expertise from regions with low rainfall such as southern Spain and Morocco. Secondly, he has opted for diversification and agroforestry: His vineyards are planted with olive, rowan and apricot trees. They are intended to stabilise the ecosystem.
Pierre Boudau from Domaine Boudau emphasises: "It takes time to develop effective strategies. We don't even know yet whether the cultivation of Spanish grape varieties will work. It is important that we communicate with each other and share the results of trials." Boudau relies on the "resilience of traditional family wineries". They have the experience of generations. On the other hand, it becomes problematic for newcomers who want to set up a winery in the region.
"The nature of winegrowers in Roussillon is to adapt," explains Yannick Clavier, commercial director of Vignerons de Caramany. There is a good chance that they will succeed this time too. However, the style of the Roussillon wines is likely to change significantly.