In the traditional Thermenregion (Austria), more and more family wineries are going out of business and the vineyard area is shrinking. Alexander Lupersböck spoke to Heinrich Hartl, ÖTW winegrower and chairman of the region, about the reasons for this.
The history of the wine-growing region Thermenregion south of Vienna dates back to Roman times. In the 16th century, the area was considered the "most distinguished wine region" in present-day Austria (Johannes Rasch: Weinbuch). The "Gumpoldskirchner" was still famous until the 1970s. With Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, the region has unique grape varieties. However, although the wine world craves autochthonous varieties, the area under vines continues to decrease. In addition to the few large, export-orientated wineries, small family wineries that often only market through wine taverns are the backbone of the region. They have been under pressure for 15 years. Many have since given up, and with the crisis in European viticulture, many more wineries and vineyards are expected to close. Alexander Lupersböck spoke to Heinrich Hartl, chairman of the region, about the reasons for this. The winegrower from Oberwaltersdorf cultivates around 15 hectares, is Vice President of the Lower Austrian Winegrowers' Association and has been a member of the Austrian Traditional Wine Estates (ÖTW) since 2022.
The vineyard area has shrunk from an already small 2,700 hectares in 2007 by almost a third in 15 years, and Zierfandler has fallen from 80 hectares to 60. Why is that?
Hartl: Our wineries are very small and depend heavily on direct sales. The large, well-positioned wineries buy almost no grapes because they have reached their optimum farm size. Fair grape prices are the prerequisite for continuing to cultivate land. However, wherever grapes have to be sold on the open market, prices are currently far below production costs. So it's clear that farms would rather stop yesterday than tomorrow.
Do you expect many more businesses to close down in the near future?
Hartl: Yes, definitely.
Is there such a large surplus of grapes in the region?
Hartl: The major changes in the market that we are now seeing in many countries have already happened here before. The older generation was less concerned with grape prices. In previous years, this was more of a leisure activity for many, they lived from their pension and not from the proceeds of grape sales. But the children, who are still in regular employment, have to manage the vineyards in their free time and they don't tend to do that anymore if it's not profitable. That's when they start calculating. And then out with the vines.
Is the winemaking profession too romanticised in the general perception?
Hartl: It's a great profession. But you have to be aware that you are subject to the whims of nature and that it may become increasingly unpredictable. The money is not easy to earn. We have low yields per hectare in our area. It is therefore necessary to create a good marketing structure in order to generate good added value and make ends meet.
The average consumption is two glasses
The yields per hectare in the Thermenregion are low
Hartl WineryThermenregion relies heavily on direct sales at wine taverns. Why does that no longer work?
Hartl: Sales have fallen massively. With 100 days of Heurigen operation per year, you used to be able to market the wine from ten hectares of vineyards - at the Heurigen in combination with farm-gate sales. Today, two hectares are enough. The average consumption at the Heurigen is two glasses of wine per guest. People simply drink less wine and buy less wine directly from the winegrower. Of course, you ask yourself: why cultivate ten hectares when you only need two?
The few wineries that also export don't need more wine?
Hartl: Most of them have optimised their operational processes and adapted their machinery and the necessary infrastructure to their capacity limits. Even if they are well-established brands on the market: If they were to take on more space, they would probably need more staff - but they often can't find them. Further investment would probably be necessary, and that means economic risk in challenging times. I believe that all wineries are currently experiencing stagnation and decline on the domestic market - I currently only see growth potential in exports.
The increased fixed costs are putting more pressure on small wineries.
Hartl: Yes, because you have to include them in the price of the wine, regardless of whether you sell 10,000 bottles or a million. The stand at the VieVinum wine fair costs everyone the same. If the tractor breaks down, the forklift or a machine stops: The repair costs the same for everyone. If you don't have it repaired, you can't work. So you only have the choice: get it repaired, no matter what it costs, or buy it new. These costs affect small businesses much more than those with large numbers of bottles.
Faultless wine is not enough
It is hardly to be expected that more wine will be drunk again - at the wine tavern or at home. How can this be countered?
Hartl: We have to offer something to the guests who come to the region. Just making flawless wine is not enough. Everyone can do that these days. One successful concept is the "Genussmeile" in late summer, where tens of thousands of people can hike in the region, enjoy the view of the Vienna Basin and taste the wines at the stands. This combines a nature experience with a wine experience. We also need to appeal much better to the catering trade. Our wines are versatile accompaniments to food - but are under-positioned. Zierfandler Rotgipfler and St. Laurent are listed on many wine lists under "Varietal diversity" - who orders that? We need to get much more into accompanying wines by the glass. It takes a lot of persuasion, but every sommelier wants to show their guests something new and rare. This is an opportunity, but our wines are not necessarily a sure-fire success.
How do you get customers back to the region?
Hartl: Just opening the door and offering wine is not enough. Buying wine is very easy and convenient these days - in food retail and online sales - which the winegrowers themselves can also do. Those who make the journey to the winery also want to experience something.
Perhaps we need to develop Austria's positioning further
Is Austrian wine too complicated to understand? As a member of the Österreichische Traditionsweingüter, you are pushing for a site classification. Many people ask themselves whether it is needed at all.
Hartl: Every winery has the chance to build a brand. But not many manage that. Even less well-known businesses can benefit from an origin that is communicated jointly by several leading businesses. After all, origin is not interchangeable and is equally available to everyone in an area. But it must be possible to charge each origin with wine styles and qualities in such a way that it is something special and in demand.
ÖWM WSNA
Aren't you afraid that this overemphasis on the smallest differences will overwhelm customers?
Hartl: The system may seem too intellectualised and complicated. It's not about making every vineyard world-famous in detail, but about expressing the high quality standards. To simplify marketing, I could imagine grouping wine-growing areas into possibly five regions, whose stories and typicality could be communicated more easily internationally. If we succeed in positioning Austrian wine as a whole in a very valuable way, everyone will benefit. In this way, we could enhance our overall reputation: Austria is good, we have world-class specialities.
Where do you see Thermenregion and Austria in ten years' time?
Hartl: I hope that society will have the necessary awareness and appreciation for our natural product. Austrian wine should be appreciated by our affluent society as a valuable cultural asset and luxury food. It should be seen as an enrichment and a change, and also as an artisanal natural product that is strongly characterised by its origins. We should also communicate this internationally. Domestically, we can also emphasise the topics of cultural landscape, regionality, small economic cycles, local employment and thus social and economic impulses. This small-scale approach should be more appreciated and honoured by the population. Otherwise there will be even fewer of us in this sector in a few years' time.