Coda" in Berlin is Germany's only dessert-dining restaurant with two Michelin stars. Master pastry chef René Frank's approach to wine pairings is as surprising as his overall sensory concept.
The now internationally renowned "Coda Dessert Dining" fits perfectly into Berlin's hipster district Neukölln despite its two-star level and purist interior. With the triad of food craftsmanship, pairing and wine expertise, René Frank sets new standards for a modernly interpreted pâtisserie. With a lot of pioneering spirit, he produces unusual desserts that are not desserts in the classical sense. Even though dessert is the most emotional part of a menu for him, each dish has a meticulously thought-out recipe. During the four-hour menu, wine plays the most important (secondary) role.
René Frank's creations are based on craftsmanship from all over the world using classic pâtisserie techniques. But what is innovative is the stylisation and deconstruction of the classics that can only be guessed at. They do not have to be sweet at all, but can be an interplay of different flavours, even savoury ones. The formula applies: Naturalness meets balance. Frank relies on a setting of sweet, salty, acid and bitter, which combine to create sophisticated consistencies. Frank derives natural sweetness from the starch of (root) vegetables such as celery, sweet potato, beetroot or fermented black garlic. Right behind are fruits, preserves or dried fruits such as dates, but also coconut blossom syrup, maple syrup and honey. Tart or bitter notes are provided by refined herbal tinctures. The saltiness of cheese and the acidity of citrus fruits are balanced with the umami of protein-rich pulses, shiitake mushrooms, fermented rice or algae. The art here is to achieve a maximum reduction to the essentials and to treat all ingredients at eye level, Frank explains his concept.