The land is flat and wide. There is no elevation visible far and wide. We are in the Seewinkel, east of Lake Neusiedl. You can see a lot of game here, deer for example, but also pheasants. For some time now, a minibus has been driving ahead of us. It guides us to a kind of shed in Andau, two kilometres from the Hungarian border.
Hungarian border. It is already dawn, the air is clear and cold.
Johann Schwarz, Alois Kracher and "Carlo" Wolf get out of the van. Schwarz is a master butcher, as we will see impressively today. But his wines are also first class.
He produces three wines in his shed or garage, namely "SchwarzWeiss", a cuvée of Chardonnay and a little bit of Grüner Veltliner, "SchwarzRot" from Zweigelt and "The Butcher", a rosé wine also from Zweigelt. We first try the 2001 barrel samples.
All three wines are matured in new barriques, are incredibly complex, full-bodied and so fruity and aromatic that it is a joy. SchwarzWeiss has 13 %, SchwarzRot 13.7 % and Butcher even 15.7 % vol. with 0.7 % RZ.
Now we move on a few metres to the "Sautanz". I won't repeat the steps of this dance here. Only this much: boiled pork cheeks and other kettle meat, blunzen, grilled bats, freshly prepared and fried bratwursts and finally grammels.
This was accompanied by the above-mentioned wines, this time from 2000, in a quantity about which I am spreading the veil of silence. But I am happy to report on the quality: also very complex, well-structured wines with long finishes. Always rich colours, intense aromas of e.g. wild berries or plums.
After such a meal, a digestive schnapps is good; very good indeed if it comes from Gölles. The Williams pear has an aroma that I have never experienced in a distilled spirit.