Soon it will be that time in Munich again: "O'zapft is!" While the Oktoberfest is the most beautiful time of the year for many, for Raffaella Usai it is the weeks when she avoids the Theresienwiese. She reveals her favorite wine spots in the beer capital.
Munich stands for Hofbräuhaus, Oktoberfest, giant pretzels, and beer mugs. Tourists and locals celebrate beer culture in beer gardens, taverns, and... of course at the Wiesn. However, the large number of stylish and casual wine bars and restaurants that offer elaborate wine lists shows that you can also enjoy wine wonderfully in Munich. One should quickly forget the prejudice that the Munich elite only drinks Aperol Spritz and Lugana.
If, like me, you always make a big detour around the world's largest folk festival and are also averse to beer, you will still be happy in the Bavarian capital. Here are my personal recommendations, including classic wine bars, but also restaurants where hospitality and love for wine are the focus.
Raffaella Usai
Bräuhausstraße 8, 80331 Munich
Mon to Fri from 5 – 11:30 PM, Sat 2 – 11:30 PM, Sun Closed
You can actually always go to "Griabig". On Saturday afternoon for a bottle of Kabinett after strolling through the old town or for a nightcap later in the evening. The atmosphere is great. Griabig means cozy, snug, homey: You couldn't have given the place a better name. Host Bernd Arold says about "Griabig": "Come in, stay, be you. No overpriced prices, no etiquette, no frills." That's why it is one of my favorite places in Munich. With over 15 top wines available by the glass, there is a huge selection here, and the bottled wine list is also impressive. The focus is on Germany and Austria, but those who prefer wines from Italy, France, and Spain will also find something.
Raffaella Usai
Ickstattstraße 13, 80469 Munich
Thu to Mon from 6 PM
In Gasthaus Waltz by Stefan Grabler and Markus Hirschler, you feel completely at ease. The two Austrians know how to provide hospitality. They offer down-to-earth, good cuisine and a curated wine list that includes many classics as well as some underdogs. It may not sound exciting at first, but everything fits together at Waltz. The place is usually fully booked, so their straightforward concept works. Grabler and Hirschler have learned their craft, they are professionals through and through – and charming, of course. The wines are served in Zalto glasses, and the list of wines available by the glass features top wines from Clemens Busch, Bürklin-Wolf, or Peter Jakob Kühn. For wine lovers who want to indulge in a relaxed atmosphere.
Raffaella Usai
Ledererstrasse 8, 80331 Munich
Mon to Thu: 6:30 PM – 12 AM and Fri & Sat: 6:30 PM – 1 AM
The Grapes in the Cortiina Hotel is one of the trendier wine bars in the city center, just a few meters from the Hofbräuhaus. Nothing is left to chance here, as in no establishment of the Munich gastro giants Kull and Weinzierl. The minimalist decor exudes casualness, and in summer you can also sit in the courtyard when the weather is nice. For owner Rudi Kull, Grapes should be "a meeting point for wine lovers from all over the world, a place for meeting and exchanging ideas." Thus, the clientele is often international. The food is not the main focus for me at Grapes; it rather accompanies the first-class wines in a relaxed manner. Always a good choice to spend a nice evening!
Bar Mural
Theresienstraße 1, 80333 Munich
Glou Glou Monday 6 PM – 1 AM; Tue to Thu 6 PM – 1 AM; Fri & Sat 6 PM – 2 AM
Exceptional talent and sommelier Wolfgang Hingerl is now an integral part of Munich's gastro scene. In addition to his star restaurant "Mural" and "Mural Farmhouse," he has also been running the casual Bar Mural in Maxvorstadt between Odeonsplatz and the university with his team for several years. Hingerl's concepts are bold, approachable, honest, and show that Munich can also be "out of the box." In Bar Mural, regional ingredients shine in simple yet unusual dishes; upon request, there is also a 5-course menu. The focus is mainly on natural wines from all over Europe. And because you often find yourself standing in front of closed gastro doors on Mondays, this day at Bar Mural is dedicated to the motto "Glou Glou." The team then serves top wines from a specific appellation or region by the glass, accompanied by a specially designed menu. Great idea!
Geisels’ Vinothek
Schützenstraße 11, 80335 Munich
Mon to Fri 12 – 12 AM, Sat 4 – 12 AM, Sun Closed
Located between the main train station and Stachus, the "Vinothek by Geisel" is for me the mother of all Munich wine bars. After sommelier Robert Zeller took care of the wine selection for over 25 years, Felix Jungwirth brought new energy to the Vinothek at the end of 2023. The wine list includes countless open and bottled wines from around the world, leaving almost no wish unfulfilled. In a rustic-cozy atmosphere, guests can either enjoy a complete menu or simply indulge in a good glass of wine with a large selection of cheese or a plate of freshly sliced Prosciutto di San Daniele.
Champagne Characters
Alter Messeplatz 6, 80339 Munich
Tue, Wed, Sat from 12 – 7 PM & Thu, Fri from 12 – 8 PM
Although I avoid the Theresienwiese during Oktoberfest, I gladly make an exception for a visit to Nicola Neumann and her beautifully decorated shop. Her store "Champagne Characters" is located in the Westend, just a stone's throw from the Wiesn. Whether for a quick after-work aperitif during the week or to start Saturday off right, fans of characterful winemaker champagnes are always well taken care of by Nicola. She serves various champagnes by the glass starting at nine euros. Of course, a whole bottle is also an option if you want to stay a little longer. Conveniently located next to it is L'Oca Bianca, Munich's first Venetian cicchetteria. There you can get some small Italian delicacies to go with the champagne. The perfect Italian-French combination!
Raffaella Usai
Hans-Sachs-Straße 3, 80469 Munich
Tue & Wed 6 PM – 12 AM, Thu to Sat 6 PM – 2 AM and Sun 6 PM – 12 AM, Mon Closed
The "Blue Dragonfly" is a charming wine bar in the trendy Glockenbachviertel. The young, dynamic team shares a passion for good wine and is happy to recommend wild discoveries that lie off the beaten path. In a relaxed atmosphere, you can order various small dishes; the offer ranges from oysters to octopus, but there are also many vegetarian dishes from Mediterranean cuisine on the menu. Everything is recommended, so it's a good idea to order several items and share the portions. Ideal for a small hunger and a big thirst!
Raffaella Usai
Clemensstraße 7, 80803 Munich
Tue to Sat 6 PM – 1 AM
The small wine bar opened in summer 2023 by the busy rockstar sommelier Justin Leone is located in my neighborhood, just a few steps from Munich Freedom. The former sommelier of Munich's "Tantris" has fulfilled his dream of a "terroir wine bar" here. His wine list includes over 800 wines, around 700 of which can be enjoyed by the glass in 0.1l format thanks to the Coravin system. A unique concept in Munich. During my last visit, I spent six hours(!) tasting my way through the wine list. Among them were treasures like a Nervi Gattinara from 1967. The focus is on wines from overseas (the entire USA stock of Tantris), but top wines from Germany, France, and Italy are also not neglected. For all who not only drink wines but love them!