"I Hope My Generation Tackles the Problems"

At 26, you are one of the youngest female winemakers in the world in a leadership position. When did you realize that you would pursue this path?

Federica Boffa Pio: I grew up in the vineyard and the cellar. In our family, it was common to host business partners and friends at home; my parents also took me on trips as a child. Therefore, the world of wine was early on my natural environment. Although I wouldn't have wished to take on such responsibility so young right after my business studies, I had no other choice.

When your father passed away in 2021, you suddenly became responsible for the winery. How did you manage that?

Federica Boffa Pio: I had already worked in the business during my studies. Not full-time, but I was able to get a taste of everything. Although my father was a very dominant personality, he tried to give me space. Sometimes he also threw me into the deep end. If he hadn't done that during his lifetime, I might not be capable of running the company today.

What was his most important advice?

Federica Boffa Pio: My father always advised me to remain humble and let my actions speak for themselves. The Pio Cesare brand was never flashy or loud, but always characterized by understatement. He also taught me never to compromise on quality. And this attitude has saved us since his passing.

In what way?

Federica Boffa Pio: When I took over the winery, not all customers were convinced that I would continue Pio Cesare**** in my father's spirit. Many wine journalists were also skeptical. There are still some who have not come to taste since his death. In the beginning, it was very tough. But we have shown that we continue the tradition.

Who is 'we'?

Federica Boffa Pio: My cousins Cesare and Augusto support me. We do not have an export manager or technical director; the family discusses everything together. In the end, however, it is me who makes the decisions – and bears the responsibility. Wine thrives on storytelling, but it is tough business. The numbers have to add up, and I have to pay my 30 employees. For that, I am on the road almost 200 days a year.

Pio Cesare stands primarily for Barolo and Barbaresco. Can one still invest in these appellations?

Federica Boffa Pio: The hectare prices have risen over the past decades with the demand and success of the wines. But in the last ten years, they have literally exploded. In 2014, we bought ten hectares of vineyards in Monforte d’Alba. At that time, the hectare price was around one million euros. Today, ten years later, prices have risen to up to three million euros per hectare. There is also hardly any land left to buy.

What is the reason for that?

Federica Boffa Pio: At some point, everyone understood that one could make good money with Barolo. So speculation began, and the price skyrocketed. However, the consortium and the region regulate very precisely how many hectares the Barolo appellation can grow each year. In 2024, it was a maximum of 22 hectares. The authorities strictly control whether the vineyards meet the requirements.

This year, there has been unusually much rain in Piedmont. However, in recent years, the region has suffered from drought. Is there a risk that the Langhe will lose vineyards due to climate change?

Federica Boffa Pio: It is quite possible. However, the lack of precipitation is not solely responsible for that. The climate has changed drastically over the past 50 years; like everywhere, it has become very unstable and warmer. It hardly snows in winter anymore, and summers are hotter. The big problem is that we cannot store water; we lack reservoirs and water catchment systems. Moreover, the production rules do not allow for irrigating the vineyards.

Is there a discussion in the Barolo consortium about relaxing the irrigation ban?

Federica Boffa Pio: There is a lot of discussion in the consortium, but the real problems related to climate change are neglected. There is a lack of a common vision for the future.

What would be important topics for you?

Federica Boffa Pio: If we do not change anything, the question arises whether we will even be able to produce Barolo in the medium term due to water scarcity. For years, the focus has been on expanding the Barolo appellation to the north-facing vineyards. For me, this is the wrong approach, as these locations are not suitable at this time. Nebbiolo needs a lot of sun. The risk of late frosts is also too great. In the end, the application was also rejected by the members in the spring.

What do you propose as an alternative?

Federica Boffa Pio: We are focusing on higher altitudes. About five years ago, we bought eight hectares in Alta Langa, at about 580 meters above sea level. There we are experimenting with Nebbiolo in cooler terroir, as our highest locations in the Barolo growing area are around 400 meters. Our hope is to eventually incorporate the grapes from the high vineyards into our Barolo to give it more freshness and elegance. However, the production rules would need to be changed for that. Currently, the grapes go into our Langhe Nebbiolo.

How do these locations differ from those in the Barolo area?

Federica Boffa Pio: The vegetation cycle starts about two weeks later, and the harvest is correspondingly delayed. The acidity levels of the wines are higher, and the tannins are crisper.

Have your wines changed in recent years?

Federica Boffa Pio: Yes, they have lost some freshness due to the higher alcohol levels. Therefore, for several years now, we have shortened the wood aging of our red wines and given them more bottle aging instead. This is mainly due to climate change: The grapes are always more concentrated and ripe when we harvest them. The wines need less time in wood and are generally more accessible.

The new president of the Barolo consortium, Sergio Germano, is also a member of the group "Gli Svitati," which advocates for screw caps on premium wines. Does Barolo need to have a natural cork for you?

Federica Boffa Pio: There are really other problems that are more important. In my opinion, every winemaker should be allowed to choose the closure they deem appropriate.

If you were the "Queen of Barolo" for a day, what decisions would you make?

Federica Boffa Pio: As mentioned earlier, I would give winemakers the chance to use grapes from higher vineyards. I would also allow irrigation systems – at least in the vineyards that suffer greatly from drought and ensure that there are sufficient water reserves available. In our region, there are too many neglected forests whose owners do not take care of them. I would require them to maintain them better, as they pose significant plant protection problems for the adjacent vineyards. But in the newly elected board, there are many young winemakers, and I hope that my generation will tackle the problems quickly. We do not have much time left.