The New VDP Classification - Part 1

The core of the resolution is the expansion and restructuring of the previously three-tier quality system (estate and local wines; classified single vineyards; wines from "Erste Lage", which are described as "Grosses Gewächs" when dry) into a four-tier classification. These four levels are in the future (in descending order of rank):

• VDP Grosse Lage
• VDP Erste Lage
• VDP Ortswein
• VDP Estate Wine

Like "Grosses Gewächs", "Grosse Lage" is spelled with a double S, in deviation from German spelling, to make the designation easier to use internationally, as the sharp S as a special character is omitted.

Schloss Johannisberg% Rheingau (Photo: Rheingauer Weinwerbung / DWI)

"VDP Erste Lage" as a new, optional intermediate level

The introduction of the new four levels made several changes and additions necessary. An essential prerequisite for the stringency and consistency of the new system was to rename the previous top category "Erste Lage" to "VDP Grosse Lage". "VDP Grosses Gewächs" continues to be the name of the dry top wines, which now come from the "VDP Grossen Lagen" - with the same terminology. The principle for defining the level is simple at first glance: "The best of the best sites of a region are inserted into the category VDP Grosse Lage [...] across all wineries." The VDP emphasises that the renaming "also underlines the equal status of the fruit-sweet wines from the top sites. The renaming of the category is expressly intended only to resolve the contradiction in the nomenclature and not to create a new higher-value category."

The naming of the site on the label is only possible in the top two categories in the new classification, whereby the second highest level does not have to exist in every region. According to the VDP decision, the previous classified sites will be "critically reviewed" with the aim of "only very good sites will continue to be awarded on the label". The individual VDP regional associations can then introduce "VDP Erste Lagen" as an additional hierarchy level, if this is desired internally. Even though this level has the same name as the highest category before, it is not identical with it (especially since it has been renamed), but is subordinate to the new "VDP Grossen Lagen" and contains other sites than these. The quality system in Burgundy with its Grands Crus and Premiers Crus (literally translated as Great and First Growths, respectively) was the inspiration for both the structure and the designation. Regarding the exact procedure for classifying sites, the VDP states: "In the first step, the regions define their Grossen Lagen (Great Sites) in order to then optionally designate Erste Lagen (First Sites) in the case of inter-company agreement. In this way, each region decides on the three- or four-tier classification of its vineyards. The option can be realised by the regions at a time of their own choosing. Simpler and medium sites are included in the estate wines and local wines by regional decision."

Roter Hang with a view of Nierstein% Rheinhessen (Photo: Peter Martin Gräf / DWI)

No predicates for dry local and estate wines single vineyards

Each VDP member winery can produce only one dry single vineyard from each "VDP Grossen Lage" it owns and from each grape variety approved for it, which is then designated as "VDP Grosses Gewächs" with the vineyard name. This so-called one-wine principle also applies to "VDP Erste Lagen". The predicates (from Kabinett to Eiswein) are in the future reserved only for residual and noble sweet single vineyards, i.e. dry wines from "VDP Grossen Lagen" and "VDP Ersten Lagen" cannot bear a predicate. The same applies to dry "VDP Ortsweine"; only in the case of "VDP Gutsweine", the lowest level of the quality pyramid, are predicates permitted both in the dry and in the fruit- and noble-sweet range, although the connection between the attribute "dry" and the predicates from Auslese upwards is prohibited. The flavour indication "dry" is obligatory for appropriately vinified wines. For all Prädikat wines, the individual VDP regional associations define specific flavour profiles.

In general, further detailed regulations are worked out regionally. "The regions are given a wide range of options to take into account the respective regional characteristics, while adhering to the uniform federal framework," the members' resolution stipulates. Thus, members can be exempted from the classification regulations in individual cases "to avoid undue hardship" if there is a reason for such an exemption.

Neckar Bend near Mundelsheim% Württemberg (Photo: DWI)

Overview of the classification regulations

Level 1: "VDP Estate Wine

• defined as "basic wines at a high level
• comes from vineyard-owned sites in which at least 80 percent of the grape varieties recommended by the respective regional association and typical for the region are cultivated
• Maximum yield as a rule 75 hl/ha
• Manual harvesting is compulsory from the Prädikat level Auslese onwards.
• The region and winery name on the label indicate the origin of the wine.
• Predicates are permitted for dry wines as well as for wines with residual sweetness and noble sweetness; however, "dry" and predicate level from Auslese onwards are not permitted.

Level 2: "VDP Ortswein

• originates from "high-quality, characterful and traditional" vineyards within a locality, planted with grape varieties typical of the region.
• Maximum yield 75 hl/ha
• Manual harvesting is compulsory from the Prädikat level Auslese onwards.
• the place name on the label indicates the origin of the wine
• in the case of so-called terroir wines, a specific type of soil may be indicated on the label
• dry local wines are designated as "Qualitätswein trocken"; predicates are not permitted (temporary exception for dry and semi-dry/fine-grained Kabinett wines)
• semi-dry/fine-grained Kabinett and Spätlese wines may be permitted on a regional basis
• local wines with residual sweetness bear the classical predicates
• Recommended marketing not before 1 March of the year following the harvest.

The quality levels are also reflected in the bottle design. (Photo: VDP)

Level 3: "VDP Erste Lage

• Lagen are defined as "first-class vineyards with an independent character, where optimal growing conditions prevail and where wines of sustained high quality have been demonstrably produced over a long period of time".
• Introduced from vintage 2012 in the following regions: Baden, Franconia, Palatinate, Rheingau, Saale-Unstrut, Saxony, Wurttemberg.
• Regional specifications for approved grape varieties that match the vineyard
• maximum yield 60 hl/ha
• Selective hand-harvesting compulsory
• Must weight at least at Spätlese level
• additional control of "quality-oriented work in the vineyard" and sensory examination of the wines
• the name of the place and the vineyard indicate the origin on the label; additional labelling obligation as "VDP Erste Lage
• dry wines from "VDP Erste Lage" are labelled "Qualitätswein trocken"; predicates are not permitted (temporary exception for semi-dry Kabinett wines)
• Flavour indication "trocken" (dry) obligatory; flavour indication "halbtrocken" (semi-dry) or "feinherb" (off-dry) optional
• Wines with residual sweetness from "VDP Erster Lage" carry the classical predicates and have to fulfil regionally defined taste profiles.
• mandatory marketing not before the date of the VDP Wine Exchange (usually end of April), from vintage 2015 not before 1 May of the year following the harvest.

Level 4: "VDP Grosse Lage

• Sites are defined as "highest-quality terroirs, delineated with parcel precision, in which wines with a very special character ripen, reflecting their origin and possessing a special ripening potential".
• narrow regional specifications for authorised grape varieties that match the vineyard
• Maximum yield 50 hl/ha
• selective hand-harvesting compulsory
• Must weight at least at late harvest level
• additional control of "quality-oriented work in the vineyard" and sensory examination of the wines
• Only the vineyard name on the label indicates the origin; additional labelling obligation as "VDP Grosse Lage
• dry wines from "VDP Grosser Lage" are labelled as "VDP Grosses Gewächs" and bottled in a special bottle with the GG grape logo; predicates are not permitted (temporary exception for semi-dry Kabinett wines)
• Flavour indication "dry" obligatory; flavour indication "semi-dry" or "off-dry" optional
• Wines with residual sweetness from "VDP Grosser Lage" carry the classical predicates and have to fulfil regionally defined taste profiles.
• mandatory marketing for fruit and noble sweet Prädikat wines not before 1 May of the year following the harvest, for "VDP Grosse Gewächse" not before 1 September of the year following the harvest, for red wines not before 1 September two years after the harvest.

Kanzemer Altenberg" steep slope on the Saar (Photo: Christopher Arnoldi / DWI)

A compromise with ambitions

The VDP has published a brochure on all the details (including an illustrative graphic presentation) and is convinced of its new concept: "The great advance of this four-tier system and site restriction is the future simplified classification and communication of origins into estate, local and single vineyards (Grosse and Erste Lagen analogous to the Burgundian Cru system). The linguistic logic of Grossen Gewächsen from Grossen Lagen will also be a simplification for all market participants. In addition, tribute will be paid to the Grossen Gewächsen as Germany's internationally recognised top dry wines." However, the pride in the success and the confidence that the classification will prevail also resonates with the struggle over the regulations: "The industry's approval and engagement with the topic and not least numerous imitators show that the path is going in the right direction. The Prädikat wine estates are aware that sometimes detours have to be taken in order to achieve the goal, above all for reasons of wine law, but also because of the different regional conditions."

The new quality system thus also appears to be a compromise - which is in the nature of things. The association explicitly points out that the four-level pyramid has no wine-law status: "The VDP classification is based on a private-law statute of the Prädikat Wine Estates of Germany. This statute defines the quality of a wine according to the 'terroir', the origin in connection with the quality. For the Prädikat Wine Estates, the vineyard is therefore the decisive quality feature. The aim of the VDP classification is to define the value of Germany's best sites, to ensure the preservation of a unique cultural landscape, to reclaim the status of great dry wines from Germany and to highlight the importance of the traditional fruit-sweet Prädikat wines." In plain language, this means that the classification system only applies to VDP member wineries, but is to be regarded as groundbreaking for German quality viticulture.

To part 2 of the series of articles: "About opportunities and weaknesses".