In the meantime, the picture looks quite different. Today we find a multitude of exciting, juicy Kabinets with a strong character that have retained their filigree despite substance and expressiveness. They can still be drunk alongside without effort, but they have long since ceased to be subscribed to only supporting roles. Almost inevitably, they rarely have the depth and complexity of higher ratings (which is why we don't want to join in the top-rated carnival of some colleagues), but that doesn't detract from the pleasure they give - which is perhaps greater than ever. Wines of this style are unique worldwide anyway.