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First of all, we must apologise to all the grape varieties that have not found a place in the title. Among the reds, these are primarily Vespolina, Uva Rara (Bonarda) and Croatina, which are part of the grape variety portfolio in many northern Piedmontese appellations. Then there is the white Erbaluce and, of course, Arneis, of which Roero Arneis must consist of one hundred per cent.

Consorzio Tutela Nebbioli Alto Piemonte

However, Nebbiolo plays the leading role in all the northern Piedmontese regions of origin, as it does in Roero, where it can demonstrate its full versatility. It comes in all varieties, from slender and drinkable to firm and powerful, from accessible to tannic, fruity or spicy, simple or abysmal - and of course in all shades in between.

You might think that the differences would be determined by how far north, how close to a more alpine climate the vineyards are located, but in the end it's not that simple. A Boca can also be powerful, firm and tart, and nobody will deny the majestic appearance of a first-class Gattinara, which can give even the most powerful Roero a run for its money.

And yet the wines from the more northerly regions are cooler, regardless of alcohol or concentration. The best wines from the north have their very own, completely unmistakable delicacy that needs to be explored. As uncomplicated as the simpler, quaffable varieties are, as versatile as they are when paired with a wide variety of dishes (there is almost nothing impossible here), you have to devote time and attention to their best representatives in order to discover their secrets.

Consorzio Tutela Nebbioli Alto Piemonte

In the Roero, the red wines are almost always warmer in character, even if the stylistic differences are enormous due to the size of the region. A well-made basic Roero can be an ideal introduction to the world of Nebbiolo, because it is ideally medium-bodied, supple and accessible, but still allows you to familiarise yourself with the present tannins and complex spice of the variety. The powerful top Roero wines can be just as impressive as good Barbaresco or Barolo - as long as you don't overdo it with maturity and alcohol - but they only achieve their finesse in exceptional cases.

The white Roero Arneis is usually an uncomplicated and unobtrusive accompaniment to food - ideally it is tart, with fine juice and flavour. Here, as in so many Italian regions, there is now a slight trend towards moderate residual sweetness, which makes the wine even more suitable for the masses but detracts from its character. Some producers, on the other hand, have higher ambitions and produce Arneis with astonishing complexity and maturity.

We have currently tasted around 150 wines from the northern Piedmontese wine-growing regions and the Roero, with the focus everywhere on Nebbiolo. This is why the white wines are clearly underrepresented. We have separated the best wines by appellation, which we will also present to you individually. As always, links to all the wines and their producers can be found at the end of the lists.

Boca DOC

The northern Piedmontese appellation around the small village of Boca, not far from Lake Maggiore, covers just 15 hectares. It is therefore not easy to find its Nebbiolo-based wines (up to 30 per cent Vespolina and Uva Rara are permitted) anywhere. First-class Boca can be beguilingly juicy, smooth and flavoursome, but it can also be robust, robust, emphatically tart and in need of ageing. You should try both varieties!

Bramaterra DOC

Bramaterra is also a very small appellation in the north-west of Piedmont. The region, which covers just 35 hectares, has had DOC status since 1979. Nebbiolo plays the main role, but is generally complemented by Croatina and some Bonarda or Vespolina. The best examples develop over ten years or more.

Carema DOC

The DOC region, which has existed since 1967 and now covers around 40 hectares, is located around the village of the same name in the far north of Piedmont, directly on the border with the Aosta Valley. The wines are predominantly made from Nebbiolo (usually called Spanna in northern Piedmont) and sometimes small amounts of other varieties. Not least due to the altitude - the terraced vineyards reach up to 700 metres above sea level - they are slimmer than their counterparts from more southerly regions, but can be complex and expressive.

Colline Novaresi DOC

A DOC created in 1994 for wines from Alto Piemonte that do not belong to any of the small regional appellations along the eastern bank of the Sesio river, i.e. Boca, Fara, Ghemme or Sizzano. In addition to Nebbiolo, Croatina, Bonarda and Vespolina as well as the white Erbaluce, which is widespread in this region, are also authorised for single-varietal production. Rosso and Rosato must contain at least 50 per cent Nebbiolo.

Colline Novaresi DOC Red wines

Colline Novaresi DOC White wines

Colline Novaresi DOC Rosé

Coste della Sesia DOC

Basically the counterpart to the Colline Novaresi on the western side of the Sesia. In the DOC region, which was only classified in 1996 and overlaps in parts with Bramaterra, Gattinara and Lessona, Vespolina, Croatina, Bonarda and the white Erbaluce are also authorised for single-varietal cultivation alongside the predominant Nebbiolo. In cuvées - rosé or red - the proportion of Nebbiolo must also be at least 50 per cent.

Coste della Sesia DOC Red wine

Coste della Sesia DOC Rosé

Gattinara DOCG

The wine from the village of Gattinara has been famous far beyond Italy's borders for centuries. Today, the area, which has been classified as DOCG since 1990 (it was awarded DOC status back in 1967!), has around 90 hectares of vineyards. The red wines made from at least 90 per cent Nebbiolo are firm, tart and complex at their best, but like those from the other small growing regions of northern Piedmont, they are usually somewhat lighter than Barbaresco or even Barolo. In terms of quality, on the other hand, they are sometimes serious competitors.

Ghemme DOCG

Ghemme lies in the immediate neighbourhood of Gattinara on the opposite side of the Sesia, which flows into the Po a little further south. The wine-growing history of this small area is also ancient and Ghemme and Gattinara have a lot in common. However, the proportion of Nebbiolo may be somewhat lower here. Up to 25 per cent Vespolina and/or Uva Rara are permitted. Ghemme is often a little juicier and more open-hearted than the more austere Gattinara, but is not inferior in quality and matures just as well.

Lessona DOC

Known by this name since the 14th century, the 18-hectare region around the village of the same name borders on the Bramaterra appellation. The tart, firm wines are made from at least 85 per cent Nebbiolo and varying proportions of Vespolina and/or Uva Rara and can be excellent. Unfortunately, no wines were submitted this year.

Roero DOCG and Roero Arneis DOCG

Strictly speaking, Roero does not belong to the northern Piedmont regions, but borders on the Langhe. The vineyards, which now cover more than 800 hectares, stretch along the opposite side of the River Tanaro to Alba around Canale and beyond Bra in the south-west. The red wines made predominantly from Nebbiolo can be quite powerful, although rarely as powerful as the Barolo from the southern bank of the Tanaro. On the other hand, they are generally ready to drink earlier, although the best of them are certainly good for longer ageing. As you would expect in an area of this size, the styles and quality requirements are quite varied and range from quaffable everyday wines to complex top-quality wines. The white Roero must be made from 100 per cent Arneis and can also be very convincing; it is also available as a sparkling wine.

Roero DOCG

Roero Arneis DOCG

Sizzano DOC

The DOC has 40 hectares of vineyards in the municipality of the same name between Ghemme and Fara. The often award-winning wines consist of at least 50 and up to 70 per cent Nebbiolo as well as Uva Rara and/or Vespolina and up to ten per cent of other authorised varieties.

Valli Ossolane DOC

Valli Ossolane is located in the northernmost tip of Piedmont, west of Lake Maggiore on the Swiss border in the valley of the River Toce. This spectacularly scenic region has only had DOC status since 2009. The Nebbiolo here is called "Prünent" and is usually taut and racy, even with a higher alcohol content, due to the alpine climate. These wines are still rare, but it can be worth looking for them. The choice of grape varieties here is less strictly limited than in most other northern Piedmontese regions. For example, Merlot is also used for red wines, while white wines must contain at least 60 per cent Chardonnay.

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