The Lessini Durello growing region produces bottle-fermented sparkling wines that could not be more unique. Despite their outstanding quality, the wines are still completely unknown abroad. Raffaella Usai spoke to Diletta Tonello, winemaker and president of the protection consortium, about the potential of her appellation.
You can find the best Lessini Durello DOC in our tasting here.
Diletta Tonello
Cantina TonelloBoth bottle-fermented and tank-fermented sparkling wines made from the indigenous Durella grape variety are marketed under the name Lessini Durello. Isn't that misleading?
Diletta Tonello: The name Lessini Durello actually covers both categories. Today, the winegrowers and the consortium mainly communicate the Metodo Classico because we have realised over time that the bottle-fermented version best expresses the character of the Durella grape. The Metodo Classico are the flagship wines, although they only account for around 35 per cent of total production.
And where do the tank-fermented sparkling wines stand?
Diletta Tonello: The tank-fermented wines represent the early days when producers in our region still had little experience with production. At that time, we didn't have the financial means to completely rely on Metodo Classico. The pressurised tanks made it possible to make sparkling wine quickly and the wine could be sold in the spring after the harvest. This was the only way for the wineries to invest carefully.
The history of the Lessini Durello DOC appellation, which lies to the north of Verona and Vicenza, is very young. When was the first sparkling wine produced?
Diletta Tonello: It was around 40 years ago, after some producers from our region travelled to Champagne. When they tasted base wines there, they immediately realised how similar they were to the wines made from the Durella grape. This gave rise to the idea of producing a bottle-fermented sparkling wine. The first Metodo Classico made from Durella grapes was therefore more of an experiment.
Nobody used to talk about Durella wines
What was done with the grapes before?
Diletta Tonello: Before that time, they were processed into blended wines. They were simple, acidic still wines that nobody used to talk about. They were practically non-existent on the market. In the 1980s, people were not convinced of the quality of the Durella grape variety. It was only over time that winegrowers learnt to love it.
But the Durella grape variety has always been grown in the vineyards of Monti Lessini?
Diletta Tonello: The Durella grape has been native to the hills between Vicenza and Verona since the Middle Ages. Even during the Serenissima, the Republic of Venice, wine made from Durella was considered "vino medicina" because it had a high proportion of malic acid. Although it was not popular because of its high acidity, people were convinced of its health benefits. They even gave the wine to sailors to help them survive the long voyages.
To date, only 35 per cent of Lessini Durello has been marketed as Metodo Classico.
Raffaella UsaiWhat stood in the way of enjoyment back then is a great advantage in times of climate change.
Diletta Tonello: It is actually a plus point for us, because the grapes ripen perfectly today to produce fresh and long-lasting sparkling wines. While many winemakers used to blend their wines with Chardonnay or other varieties, most have been relying on 100 per cent Durella for some years now.
Italy's well-known bottle-fermented sparkling wines are made from the international varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Lessini Durello, on the other hand, can claim to be 100 per cent Italian.
Diletta Tonello: That's what makes our wines unique and sometimes makes it difficult to compare them with other sparkling wines. Many people are sceptical when tasting Lessini Durello for the first time because they can't pigeonhole it. It is noticeably different from all other Metodo Classico.
How can you recognise a Lessini Durello?
Diletta Tonello: Our sparkling wines strongly reflect the typicality of the grape variety. They are less characterised by yeasty aromas such as brioche or bread crust, but always have a distinctly mineral, salty vein. They tend to have a low dosage, almost none have more than eight grams of residual sugar, so they are just above the Extra Brut range. In the first two years, they have a tart, very crisp character; they become really interesting after a longer maturation period on the lees.
Our appellation is based on rural agriculture
Does this minerality come from the volcanic soils?
Diletta Tonello: The soils definitely play a big part in it. It has to be said that although our soils are of volcanic origin, they do not consist of relatively young lava tongues, as is the case on Mount Etna. The grape variety itself also contributes greatly to the freshness and longevity of the wines.
The Durello base wines for the Metodo Classico are reminiscent of those from Champagne.
Raffaella UsaiLessini Durello is hardly known outside of Italy. It is also rarely found in specialised shops in Germany. Why are the wines so unknown?
Diletta Tonello: Our appellation is based on rural agriculture. There are no huge producers here, no industrialists who have invested, just many small and a few medium-sized farms. This is also the reason why we have been able to grow much more slowly than Franciacorta, for example, which had completely different conditions.
There has been a generational change in many wineries in the region in recent years. Is this noticeable in the wines?
Diletta Tonello: The Lessini Durello are getting better and better and have more character. This is because the younger generation, including myself, can build on the oenological experience of the founders of the appellation. As there are only a few of us producers, we stick together and meet regularly to taste our wines blind. This exchange is very valuable and drives us to further improve quality.
Are the winegrowers planning to focus more on exports in the future?
Diletta Tonello: If you have little marketing budget as a region and only produce one million bottles, it simply takes much longer to publicise the brand. Our aim is to show the wine world that outstanding sparkling wines are produced in the Monti Lessini. We haven't yet had time for storytelling. Since autochthonous grape varieties have been attracting more attention, it has also become easier for us to sell our wines. We have already built up a small number of customers in Japan and the USA.
You can find the best Lessini Durello sparkling wines in our tasting here