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Since 2004, the tasting of the current Grosses Gewächse (GG) has taken place in the Kurhaus-Kolonnaden in Wiesbaden. For wine journalists, specialist retailers and sommeliers from all over Europe, this is an excellent opportunity to get an overview of the vintages soon to be on sale. You can't organise such an event much more professionally. The VDP receives effusive praise from all sides here.

The wines on display, on the other hand, give me a headache. At the risk of incurring the wrath or ignorance of many colleagues, more and more wines are in a condition that makes them very difficult to evaluate. Oxidative barrel samples, enormous amounts ofCO2 and sulphur, clear bottle sickness, and yet everyone acts as if nothing is wrong.

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