Whenever and wherever I carry a massive, thick-glass 7.5 dl. bottle of wine home, I am sceptical. Do they want to clobber me with quality with a lot of glass and a lot of weight, to prove that they are big and strong and different? Plô des Figues uses such a bottle, which probably weighs twice as much as a normally proportioned wine bottle. And? To say it in advance, the wine is good, but certainly not twice as good as those "ordinary" wines that the Domaine Estève (same winery) offers under this name, and which I know and appreciate quite well. The name also promises a lot: figs are not entirely unknown in the wine aroma mirror. Of course, I want to taste the promised figs first. Wrong: I find many an aroma, many a spice, many an appeal. "A smell that I can't identify at all: Yeast, I mean, but behind it exotic spices, garrigue, gingster, heather, thyme..." I noted exactly one year ago. Obviously I had already had the wine in my glass once. But I couldn't remember it - which happens rather rarely. I look it up in my earlier "Drunk". Indeed, on 8 November 2012, I wrote: "There are wines that leave you perplexed, unable to grasp what is happening, with the feeling that you no longer understand the wine world. The "Plô de Figues" is such a wine, at least this bottle." Was it the bottle? At the time, I promised to taste another bottle (of the same vintage) and report on it. I failed to do so, out of sheer carelessness. But now I have the wine in my glass again, albeit a much younger vintage (then 2003, now 2009). And I understand the wine world again. The wine is good, better, more definable, more interesting, more binding... Perhaps a touch too binding. I mean: clearly designed for the demanding but somewhat standardised taste. A lot of Syrah, a bit soft, a bit broad at the back of the palate, a bit pressed on the finish. But definitely a wine that has its qualities. Somehow - and this suits the bottle - everything is a bit thick, superficial, laid on, even the text on the back of the bottle. Instead of information, I get catchwords, empty phrases that culminate in something like: "Sur le plateau où la vue découvre la mer à l'horizon...". Yes, that's where the vines grow on a beautiful plateau with a magnificent view. Whether they enjoy the sea on the horizon, I can't say. It doesn't matter when it comes to the quality of the wine.