Every once in a while, I buy a tasting case at a winery I've barely met but which wins me over at a tasting. It's the famous, somewhat hackneyed image of the "cat you don't buy in a bag". That's what happened in autumn, on my first visit to Cave Biber in Salgesch. Salgesch? Yes, the wine village on the border between the German-speaking Upper Valais and the French-speaking Lower Valais. There, where there is its own quality label, the "Salgesch Crand cru". This standard, introduced by the winemakers 20 years ago - with strict rules and an equally strict jury - is very appealing to me, not least because of one of the rules: "Aging in barriques is expressly forbidden". So we are again much closer to the terroir, to the origin with the wines. But this is another chapter.