Every now and then I buy a tasting box at a winery I hardly know yet, but which convinces me at a tasting. It's the famous, somewhat hackneyed image of the "cat you don't buy in a bag". That's what happened in autumn, on my first visit to Cave Biber in Salgesch. Salgesch? Yes, the wine village on the border between the German-speaking Upper Valais and the French-speaking Lower Valais. There, where there is a quality label of its own, the "Salgesch Crand cru". This standard, introduced by the winegrowers 20 years ago - with strict rules and an equally strict jury - is very appealing to me, not least because of one of the rules: "Ageing in barriques is expressly forbidden". This brings us much closer to the terroir, to the origin of the wines. But this is another chapter.