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Hardly any wine has so permanently ruined its reputation through the production of banal mass-produced goods as Lambrusco. And this despite the fact that the heyday of the inconsequential sweet foams from Emilia Romagna is almost 30 years past. Today it is much harder to find a bad Lambrusco than a good one - at least away from the usual outlets for cheap goods
Photo: Consorzio Tutela del Lambrusco di Modena, Carlo Guttadauro

Yet the very name Lambrusco is a misnomer. There are countless grape varieties with the name Lambrusco, many of which are not even related to each other (no wonder, because the name simply means "wild vine"), and quite a few areas of origin. These, in turn, may be named after a particular Lambrusco variety, but need only be partly made up of it; some of them nevertheless represent quite clear styles, while in others it is hardly possible to tell from the name what to expect.