Hermitage is one of France's great wine legends. The appellation applies to both white and red wines, with white wines made from Marsanne and Roussanne accounting for only a fifth of production. Ideally, white Hermitage can be just as majestic as its red brother: concentrated, often more white-fruited than yellow-fruited, especially when young, powerful, usually somewhat smoky from the wood, deep, multi-layered as well as with enormous minerality. With maturity, the wines become more intense, spicy and bacony and often show distinct floral and waxy aromas. Then it also becomes clear whether the wine has enough finesse for a harmonious maturity, or whether it slips into the rather rustic, which does happen. Even then, the wines are still impressive, but they are not always fun.