The area between the Leithagebirge and Lake Neusiedl is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Here, among other things, Blaufränkisch, Neuburger and Pinot Blanc thrive for wines with a protected origin. There is much to discover in terms of landscape and culinary delights.
It is amazing how many different and multifaceted wine-growing regions there are within a radius of about 100 kilometres from the Austrian capital Vienna. One of them is the Leithaberg area in Burgenland, located about 60 kilometres southeast of Vienna on the western shore of Lake Neusiedl. It essentially comprises the district of the Burgenland capital Eisenstadt as well as the free town Rust; in the north it extends over the municipalities of Jois and Winden am See to the border of the wine-growing town of Neusiedl am See.
The Leithaberg region with its almost 3,000 hectares of vineyards is not only considered one of the most diverse regions, but also one of the most rich in history. Finds of grape seeds as grave goods in a Celtic barrow from the Early Iron Age in Zagersdorf testify to a wine culture in the area as early as the 8th century B.C. This makes Leithaberg one of the oldest wine-growing zones in the world.
But even though tradition - especially with this historical background - is lived here, it shows itself above all in the independence and clear style of the wines. The unpretentiousness makes the Leithaberg wines pleasantly accessible and extremely versatile. Respect for the natural expression of wine, its authenticity and terroir character, is also reflected in the near-natural cultivation methods used by many of the more than 430 wineries on the Leithaberg.
View over the Rieglband vineyard at Rust
ÖWM / WSNAAlmond, cherry and peach trees line the vineyards that slope down to the lakeshore and characterise the landscape. The dry, dense wines from the Leithaberg are characterised by the mineral soil on which the vines grow. In them rests the impressive and far-reaching history of their region of origin: The limestone-rich layers are repeatedly interspersed with primary rock islands. Gneiss and schist are the oldest rocks here. They build up the central part of the Leitha Mountains, which, as one of the last foothills of the Alps, border the area in the north.
The highest vineyards in the region, between Breitenbrunn and Donnerskirchen, as well as individual sites around Eisenstadt and Oslip, also rest on these soils. The most characteristic rock is the eponymous Leithakalk, which is composed of the remains of million-year-old marine fossils. The quartz-rich, sandy gravel soils of the Ruster Höhenzug complete the soil spectrum. At lower altitudes, the vines thrive on calcareous subsoils of the Pannonian Basin.
This geological diversity is accompanied climatically by the many sunny days that spoil this part of Burgenland, alternating with cool nights. Lake Neusiedl is a natural partner here, determining the interplay of temperatures. All this gives the wines a particularly long-lasting freshness.
The positive attributes of the area are reflected in the kaleidoscope of grape varieties grown here. Since the 2008 vintage, red wines from Blaufränkisch, and since the 2009 vintage, white wines from Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Neuburger and Grüner Veltliner have been allowed to bear the protected designation of origin "Leithaberg DAC". The white wines can be made purely from one of the varieties mentioned or as a cuvée of at least two of them. In the case of the DAC red wines, a blend of Blaufränkisch with a maximum of 15 percent St. Laurent, Pinot Noir or Zweigelt is possible. Other grape varieties are marketed under the generic designation of origin "Burgenland".
The red and white wines are subdivided into the levels "Gebietswein", "Ortswein" and "Riedenwein". The regional wines may be submitted for testing from 1 February (white) or from 1 May (red) of the year following the harvest. The local and single vineyard wines wines may only be submitted for examination from 1st May of the year following the harvest (white), the red wines of these categories from 1st May of the second year following the harvest.
All wines must have an alcohol content of at least 12.5 percent by volume. The white wines must be dry, the red wines have a residual sugar content of less than 2.5 g/l. In addition to their regionally typical, medium-bodied, elegant and mineral flavour profile, a note of wood must not be perceptible at all or hardly at all.
If you want to get to the bottom of the origins of Leithaberg DAC wines, you can explore the area by hiking or get on your bike for much of the year. The area is a wonderful cycling destination: many vineyards lie along the cycle paths, so that you can get close to the rows of vines. But many wine taverns and restaurants also rely on the region's wine diversity and offer it with local delicacies.
The free city of Eisenstadt offers a journey back to the era of the Austrian monarchy with the Ersterházy Palace. The associated parks invite you to stroll in the greenery. The wine-growing town of Rust attracts visitors into August with its stork nests perched on the roofs of many houses. Watching the stork families come and go while sitting with a good glass of wine is a fascinating spectacle.
Apropos: In the neighbouring town of Mörbisch, the lakeside stage invites you to its famous festival during the summer months. The former quarry in St. Margarethen is now one of the most beautiful and impressive open-air arenas in Europe. It is embedded in the wide, open landscape between the Leithagebirge and Lake Neusiedl, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Families will find plenty of variety in Austria's largest amusement park at Rust - or spend their days at one of the many lakeside lidos.