The Austrian red wine grape variety Blaufränkisch stands for elegance and finesse. In addition to the usual recommendations for meat dishes, the wines also accompany fish and vegetables at a high level. Master Sommelier Alexander Koblinger from Restaurant Döllerer reveals his most surprising favourites.
BlaufränkischAustria's second most important red wine variety with 2,580 hectares, is not a fibre-flatterer with its distinctive tannin and acid structure and absolutely needs a lot of bottle maturity. But among experienced international wine lovers, it is considered a variety with great potential. In Germany, Blaufränkisch is cultivated on 1,940 ha, but there mostly under the name Lemberger. It thus ranks fifth among German red wine varieties. The grape variety is mainly produced in Württemberg.
Alexander Koblinger MS has been head sommelier at Restaurant Döllerer in Golling in the province of Salzburg (Austria) since 2016 and is also quality manager at Döllerer's wine house in Kuchl. Since 2011, he has held the title of Master Sommelier as one of only 273 excellent ones, has been Sommelier of the Year nine times in various publications and is a "Sake Samurai". But because he still works directly with the guests and combines their wishes with the specialities of Andreas Döllerer's "Alpine Cuisine", he "always keeps his finger on the pulse of time and developments", he emphasises. Curiosity is one of his strongest drives.
For Koblinger, the art of the winemaker is to bring out the terroir without masking the character of the grape variety and its subtle spiciness. He therefore recommends Blaufränkisch from different Austrian origins not only with game and meat dishes, but also with dishes that do not initially belong in the Blaufränkisch cosmos. He characterises the regional wine types of the grape variety in Austria like this:
"On the Leithaberg and in Rust, the soils of limestone and slate as well as the influence of the nearby Lake Neusiedl give the wines remarkable minerality, complexity and finesse. The wines are delicate, elegant and refined and have a lively acidity.
In the gentle hill country of Mittelburgenland, the cool clay soils moderate the summer heat and store water. The wines present themselves powerfully with a balanced combination of dark berry fruit and spicy notes.
In any case, according to the professional, it is important for a fine food pairing "that no concentrated or 'sweet-tasting' Blaufränkisch is used. Elegance should be in the foreground." This applies just as much to German Lemberger wines - regardless of terroir typicity.
The delicate and creamy texture of grilled aubergine harmonises well with the elegance and finesse of a Blaufränkisch from the Leithaberg or Mittelburgenland. The fruity notes of the wine complement the sweet and nutty flavours of the tahini sauce and are enlivened by the tart accents of the pomegranate seed.
The fine structure and spicy tannins of a Blaufränkisch from Rust or Eisenberg make a tasty complement to the juicy stuffed peppers. The fruity aromas of the wine combine wonderfully with the creamy, slightly sweet tomato sauce, while the boiled potatoes create a balance.
A Blaufränkisch from the Leithaberg or Eisenberg is a perfect match for this spicy fish dish. The flavours of the wine complement the savoury notes of the bacon, while the 'fattier' texture of the catfish is lightened by the lively acidity of the wine.
The more intense representatives from the Spitzerberg or Leithaberg are an excellent accompaniment to the hearty wild boar ragout. The fruity and spicy aromas of the wine combine with the rich and hearty flavours of the ragout.
A Blaufränkisch from Rust or Mittelburgenland is an ideal choice for this rustic dish. The elegance of the wine balances the salty, spicy and "dark" components of the tapenade and bacon, while the fruity notes of the wine add depth to the dish.
The elegance and finesse of a Blaufränkisch from Leithaberg or Rust go wonderfully with this dish. The fruity and spicy flavours of the wine complement the spiciness of the peppers or the piquant freshness of the avocado salsa and enhance the flavours of the grilled tuna.
The subtle and finely structured Blaufränkisch from the Leithaberg or Spitzerberg perfectly complement the hearty and earthy aroma of the bacon lentils. The delicate acidity of the wine balances the fattiness of the bacon and makes for a flavourful experience.
A Blaufränkisch from Eisenberg or Mittelburgenland would be an exciting choice for this light and aromatic dish. The fresh fruit notes and delicate acidity of the wine complement the fresh flavours of the vegetable couscous and mint.
The elegance and fine tannins of a Blaufränkisch from Leithaberg or Mittelburgenland bring out the variety of flavours in the ratatouille. The fruity notes of the wine combine seamlessly with the grilled vegetable flavours, while the creamy polenta is a wonderful complement.