It's been two years since I last had the wine in my glass and stated: ''San Giorgio Amarone is the king and not one of the quickly accessible variety''. Aha - not quickly accessible! So patience is needed. The vintage - 2008 - is still in the realm of youth. Were we too impatient? Already slightly pointed on the nose, a bit too sweet on the palate, round but still (especially on the finish) very 'alcoholic'. And now, almost two years later, has the wine made itself, has it evolved? The bouquet has become softer, fresher, even fruitier. The finish leaves - if I remember this correctly - clearly less traces of alcohol and sweetness. Now, the Amarone is - well vinified - always a heavy lump, a force, a bundle of concentration. It needs a long period of bottle ageing, it needs patience And all too often it fails to deliver on its initial promise, sinks in, fails to find harmony, and remains - especially as the power fades - quite jammy. Not this Amarone. It will - I am convinced - find its harmony one day. But when? The beginnings are there, the spicy notes assert themselves, the wood recedes into the background, a clear structure emerges. And yet: the wine can, no should, still rest in the cellar. I drank it with a hearty, not too differentiated meal. It could hold its own, could develop its own character, could even please. But I continue to wait in the conviction that it will become even better, that I no longer have to decant it hours before so that it can free itself from the Amarone corset, that it works in such a way that it gives pleasure all around and does not only consist of tradition and stubbornness, with fresh cherry fruit, tobacco and proper spice - up to the finish.