They are the "salt in the soup" not only in Kaltern, but especially here - the many small, self-marketing businesses. They provide the colourful variety of high-quality products that make up the special charm of a growing region. In Kaltern they do this at an extraordinarily high level.
Niklaserhof: easy-going, relaxed and headstrong in the first league
The most important thing for Josef Sölva and his son Dieter is that they enjoy their work and that is why they have always done, and continue to do, first and foremost what they think is right and less what "the market demands". And they have not done badly with it so far. For example, they were among the first in South Tyrol to choose Pinot Blanc as their most important wine, when everyone else was focusing on the aromatic varieties Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau, which are popular in Italy, and they produced it in a Riserva version. Nowadays, just about every winery in South Tyrol has a Pinot Blanc in its top line.
And if he had to, Josef Sölva sometimes disregarded what he considered to be nonsensical regulations. In 1969, for example, he was the first to plant the Kerner variety, which had not yet been approved in South Tyrol. On the one hand, he was simply curious and on the other hand, he was convinced that good results could be achieved with this variety. Here, too, success proved him right. The Kerner is extremely sought after due to its quality and has now been approved as a variety. The white wines of the Niklaserhof are very distinctive wines that are always extremely dry. Due to the relatively high altitudes, they are endowed with good acidity and have bite despite their fullness of aroma.
Family Sölva% Niklaserhof (Source: Sölva) |
With Vernatsch, too, the Sölvas care little about what is in vogue at the moment. Their Kalterersee is fermented relatively briefly with the mash, and is therefore of a very light, almost rosé-like colour. At a time when dark colour is seen by many as a special quality feature, this is extremely courageous. With the carefree attitude, optimism and confidence of both father and son that what is really good will ultimately prevail, the Sölvas have also found enough satisfied customers for this delicate, likeable wine. Next to the Weissburgunder Riserva 'Klaser', the most important wine of the Niklaserhof is the Cuvée Mondovinum (Weißburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon). With these two wines, the Sölvas are now firmly established in South Tyrol's top league and rightly receive top ratings in the relevant wine guides every year.
The range is completed by a Lagrein that can be drunk young and a strong red wine cuvée of Lagrein and Cabernet.
The farm-gate prices range from 6 to 13 euros.
At the Niklaserhof you can spend your holidays in spacious flats and enjoy the unique view of Lake Caldaro and the uncomplicated cordiality of the Sölva family.
Direct sales by appointment:
Brunnenweg 31, Kaltern/Village of Sankt Nikolaus
Tel: +39 0471 963432
info@niklaserhof.itwww.niklaserhof.it
http://www.wein-plus.de/italien/Weingut%2BNiklas_52656.html
Klosterhof: Stubbornness and empathy
Oskar Andergassen cultivates six different types of wine - three whites (Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Goldmuskateller) and three reds (Vernatsch, Merlot and Pinot Noir) - and he takes care of each one with complete dedication and a keen sense of what each of these varieties needs. It goes without saying that each variety is grown in the most suitable location for it. But Oskar Andergassen and his son Hannes, who has been primarily responsible for the cellar since 2008, are also tirelessly experimenting with what else can be done to bring out the respective varietal character of their wines as concisely as possible.
Thus, experiments are constantly being carried out to find out which wood and which type of ageing is best for the respective wine. For the Pinot Blanc, for example, fermentation and ageing on the fine lees takes place in large acacia wood barrels. The acacia wood, which is finer than oak, is supposed to "round off the wine without impairing its taste". The acacia wood is cut in the nearby forests near the Montiggl lakes after testing the altitude of the best trees for the barrels. The Andergassens follow the phases of the moon and cut the wood in November three days after the full moon.
Andergassen family (Source: Klosterhof) |
When it comes to Pinot Noir, Oskar Andergassen is extremely proud of his particularly good sites directly around the house. That is why he only wants to acquire new vineyards here and nowhere else. And he also goes his own way with Merlot. "For this purpose, he has 10 percent of the grapes dried in small crates for six weeks to concentrate the aroma for the Riserva version, which was produced for the first time in 2006. To further enhance the quality of his red wines, a grape sorting system was purchased, with which the grapes are sorted out by hand after harvesting and in this way only the best berries are processed further.
The Klosterhof is not only a winery, but also a garni hotel and Oskar Andergassen offers his guests a guided tour of the cellar followed by a tasting of his wines on request.
Most of the time, the Klosterhof wines are already sold out before the new vintages are available. Those who come or order early in the year can purchase the wines at prices between 6 and 24 euros.
Direct sales by appointment:
Klavenz 40, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471-961 046
info@weingut-klosterhof.it www.garni-klosterhof.it
The wines of the Klosterhof in the Wein-Plus guide:
http://www.wein.plus/en/Tenuta+Klosterhof+-+Winery+Klosterhof_2
Prey is a district of the municipality of Kaltern and the Oberpreyhof is located - as the name suggests - above Prey. The farm is beautifully situated amidst the vineyards, but off the beaten track. As a result, the experience of an ex-farm sale is reserved for the connoisseurs. A pity for all those who miss out on this opportunity. Because Markus Seppi produces extremely appealing wines at very fair prices. His main focus is on the local varieties Vernatsch and Lagrein. When talking about the former in particular, he easily goes into raptures and, contrary to his otherwise rather quiet manner, doesn't stop talking. "Vernatsch is unfortunately a very underrated variety and much more valuable than it is often given credit for. Above all, it is very rich in extract, which many people do not even notice due to its light colour, mild acidity and moderate tannin. A good Vernatsch has distinctly fine nuances that naturally require more attention than the often very striking aromas of the dark, heavy wines. Vernatsch also requires much more attention from the cellar master, because it does not forgive any mistakes. Unlike Merlot, Cabernet, etc., you can taste immediately if something has not been done properly" Markus Seppi is also one of the few who still have genuine Grauvernatsch in their vineyards. This variety of Vernatsch demands more from the vintner than the usual Vernatsch clones, because it tends to coulure and is therefore more unstable in yield. Those who look primarily at the monetary side of wine production will not torture themselves with it unnecessarily.
Marcus Seppi (Source: Oberpreyhof)
Besides his two Vernatsch wines - Kalterersee and Grauvernatsch - Markus Seppi also produces two white wines - Chardonnay and Goldmuskateller. Both rather delicate, mineral wines with pleasantly low gradation, as well as Cabernet and the already mentioned Lagrein. In the future, there will probably only be the latter of these two wines, but in two versions: a young vintage wine and a matured Riserva.
The range is completed by three grappas. Self-distilled and, of course, exclusively from the estate's own marcs.
The farm-gate prices range from € 4.50 to € 8.00. The brandies cost € 14.00.
Direct sales during normal business hours or by appointment:
Garnellenweg 2, Kaltern
Tel: 0471-962216
info@oberpreyhof.it www.oberpreyhof.it
Dominikus Morandell/Bärentalerhof: Digging deep
Bärentalerhof Winery (Source: Bärentalerhof) |
At least if you appreciate classic Kalterersee. Elegant, delicate, fine and drinkable, that's how a Kalterer is supposed to be and that's also how Dominikus Morandell's is. In addition to the local classic, the Bärentalerhof also produces Traminer and Lagrein. Both are clear, fine, varietal wines. When it gets particularly cosy in the Felsenkeller, the Morandells sometimes open a bottle of Rosenmuskateller. You can't buy this wine, so you should enjoy the special moment when it is opened in the unique ambience of the Bärentalerhof. The other wines are available for purchase. And at very moderate prices between 5 and 8 euros. The guest rooms at the Bärentalerhof are also extremely affordable.
Direct sales by appointment:
St. Josef am See 39, I-39052 Kaltern/Caldaro
Tel.: +39 0471 960250
info@dominkus.it www.dominikus.it
Steflhof: peace and reliability
In the early seventies, Walter Andergassen was also tired of getting less and less money for his grapes from the wine merchants and decided to take the winemaking and sales into his own hands. As a result, the wine was no longer sold open or in bulk, but exclusively in 7/10ths bottles. The better qualities that Walter Andergassen produced from then on were always too good for him to sell off in large quantities. The range, which until then consisted only of Vernatsch, was also gradually expanded and now consists of Vernatsch, Chardonnay, Lagrein and Merlot. In the future, some Gewürztraminer is to be added.
Walter Andergassen (Source: Steflhof) |
In the meantime, his son Georg is in charge of the wine. He is a reserved person who does not push himself to the fore with big words, but rather appears calm and deliberate. These character traits are reflected in the wines of the Steflhof. Pimped-out concentrates are not Georg Andergassen's thing. This is especially noticeable in his favourite wine, the Merlot. A variety that elsewhere is often full-bodied and over-concentrated is elegant, delicate and delicately fruity here. It is important to Georg Andergassen to combine tradition and novelty. He wants to express this with his wines and this is also reflected in the design of the newly built tasting room. The furnishings are functional, simple and dignified. It was made from the staves of old wine barrels.
You can also rent flats at the Steflhof and thus enjoy cold wine culture in the historic centre of the village in 300-year-old walls.
The wines are sold ex farm at prices between 5 and 12 euros.
Direct sales by appointment:
Penegalweg 8, Kaltern
Tel.: +39 0471 964 955
info@steflhof.it www.steflhof.it
Roland Rohregger/Prälatenhof: Own instead of security
Along with Walter Andergassen and Dominikus Morandell, Roland Rohregger was one of the first in Kaltern to market his own wine in the 1970s. In contrast to his colleagues, it was not the frustration about the low prices that the merchants paid to their grape suppliers at that time that drove him into self-employment. He did not have this problem at all, because he was cellar master at the Baron di Pauli winery, which was still an independent company at the time. For him, it was the frustration of having to produce wines from mostly rather modest grape qualities. "As a cellar master, I was dependent on the comrades and had to process what they delivered." Roland Rohregger wanted to produce better, and so he decided to give up his secure job as cellar master and take matters into his own hands. That was not easy at the time. At that time, the market neither accepted the prices that are simply necessary for better quality wines, nor the unadulterated taste of the wines produced without cellar tricks.
Prälatenhof (Source: Prälatenhof) |
Roland Rohregger's Kalterersee was always a slender, clear, elegant and delicate wine - just a typical Kalterer. "But that was not enough for many people. Roland Rohregger did not let this irritate him and always made his wines - not only the Kalterersee - the way he saw fit, and in the meantime his success has proven him right. He no longer has any problems selling his wines. Especially the whites - Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Goldmuskateller and Sauvignon - are in great demand in the upscale local gastronomy. The range is complemented by a Cabernet, which is always produced as a Riserva.
Prices range from €6 to €11.50.
Apartments €50 to €65, depending on size.
Direct sales by appointment:
Unterplanitzing 15a, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 962 541
info@praelatenhof.it www.praelatenhof.it
The wines of the Prälatenhof in the Wein-Plus guide:
http://www.wein-plus.de/italien/Weingut%2BPr%C3%A4latenhof_56088.html
Thomas Unterhofer: Newcomer with new ideas
The Unterhofers are one of the still very young wineries in Kaltern that have added some interesting wines to the range of this traditional South Tyrolean wine village in recent years.
At the beginning of the millennium, Helga and Thomas Unterhofer first produced some wine on the side, but when they took over the farm in 2002, viticulture quickly became their sole source of income. In the first three years they still sold the grapes, but in the back of the young farmer's mind winemaking was already fixed. And so in 2006 they decided to process the grapes themselves. Although they still had to acquire a lot of knowledge about wine production in training courses and through consultations, their wines received very good ratings in the relevant wine guides after only a short time. Above all, the extremely good price-performance ratio of their Vernatsch was and is rightly praised everywhere.
Thomas Unterhofer (Source: Unterhofer) |
Even now, only a small part of the production is pressed and the total annual production amounts to about 13,000 bottles. Eventually, the aim is to produce 20 to 30 thousand. But not more, because they want to continue doing everything themselves in the future. The Unterhofers' vineyards are mostly very steep and require a correspondingly large amount of work. The vineyards are cultivated using natural methods, which is also more labour-intensive than purely conventional production.
The range is both traditional and innovative. Thus, in addition to the classic "Campenn" (South Tyrolean Vernatsch), Kerner and the fungus-resistant variety Bronner are also cultivated. A Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay complete the current range.
The ex-farm prices range between 5.60 and 9.20 euros.
Direct sales by appointment:
Oberplanitzing 5, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 669 133
info@weingut-unterhofer.com
The wines of Thomas Unterhofer in the Wein-Plus Guide:
http://www.wein-plus.de/italien/Weingut%2BUnterhofer_61715.html
Hermann Luggin/Steffelehof: Organic place of pilgrimage
Hermann Luggin (Photo: R.Brunner) |
He decided to convert to organic in 2000. At that time he was still a member of the Kaltern Winery, which at that time - unlike today - had nothing to do with organic viticulture and therefore could do little with the special quality of Hermann Luggin's grapes. Therefore, he decided to produce wine himself. As a small producer who wanted to work 100% organically, he did not have it easy in South Tyrol at that time. There were many reservations. Neighbours and colleagues were rather sceptical to dismissive. Hermann Luggin was not irritated by this and did his thing. Now, 10 years later, organic is quite in demand, and it is to be hoped that the Steffelehof will also benefit from this with its new activities.
The current range consists of three wines. A white wine cuvée of Pinot Blanc and some Traminer, a classic Kalterersee and a red wine cuvée of the fungus-resistant variety Regent as well as Cabernet and Merlot.
The prices range between 5 and 9 euros.
Since the end of 2009, Hermann Luggin has also owned his own distilling rights, which he uses to distil fine brandies from the marc of his wines as well as from his organic fruit.
Direct sales: Monday - Friday: 9.00 - 18.00, Saturday: 9.00 - 18.00;
Heppenheimerstrasse 11, Kaltern - Sankt Nikolaus
Tel: +39 0471 963 608
luggin.steffelehof@gmail.com
Lieselehof: Aiming high
Werner Morandell aims high with his wines. In one respect he has already achieved this. He currently cultivates the highest vineyard in South Tyrol. At an altitude of 1,300 metres on the Mendel Pass, he has planted an experimental vineyard with the fungus-resistant Solaris variety. Morandell was the first to work with resistant varieties 16 years ago, and he has been working closely with the research institute in Freiburg since then. He wants to prove that you can produce high-quality wines with these varieties. At least he has already succeeded with his dessert wine 'Claire', made from dried grapes of the Bronner variety: A dense, concentrated growth with multi-layered aromas that was rightly a finalist for the Three Glasses in the Gambero Rosso tastings in 2009.
Werner Morandell (Source: Morandell) |
Werner Morandell, however, is not exclusively concerned with resistant varieties. In addition to the South Tyrolean classics Pinot Blanc and Vernatsch, he produces - now certified organic - a cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Cabernet Franc, with which he even dares to compete in a winery-internal blind tasting against the very great wines of the Bordelais. However, he honestly admits that "we don't quite get there (yet)".
On the other hand, "the wines from France that were on the table that evening also cost up to 160 euros. The Amadeus (the name of the Lieselehof's Bordeaux cuvée) can be had for 17 euros. Of course, you have to see that too." The other Lieselehof wines are available between 5.50 euros (Leps) and 27 euros (the aforementioned 'Claire').
A must during a visit to the Lieselehof is a tour of the "vine museum". Werner Morandell has planted 300 different grape varieties from all over the world in a vineyard in front of his house. Especially in autumn, when the leaves change colour, it is a unique sight. And what the vines are to Werner Morandell, the herbs are to his wife Claire. There is hardly one that you won't find in her herb garden right next to the Vine Museum.
Direct sales by appointment:
Karditscherweg 6, Kaltern
Tel: 0471 - 965 060
info@lieselehof.com www.lieselehof.com
Andi Sölva: A somewhat different Kalterer
Andreas Sölva (Source: Sölva) |
At the moment, Sölva only produces this wine. In the future, however, one or two other specialities will be added. Since Andi Sölva loves the unusual, but always emphasises tradition and good taste, pleasant surprises are to be expected.
The "Sea" costs € 7.80 ex farm.
Direct sales by appointment
Barleiterweg 24, Kaltern
Tel.: +39 349 323 3246
info@andisoelva.com www.andisoelva.com
Thomas Pichler: Ripe
The Thomas Pichler winery is young. The first own wine was bottled only in 2003; before that, the family delivered their grapes to the cooperative. But Thomas Pichler, who received sound training at the Laimburg regional winery, wanted to make something of his own and, above all, something special: ripe wines. This is rather unusual with the grape varieties largely cultivated in Kaltern - Vernatsch and white wine varieties. The whites have to be crisp and fresh and the Kalterer soft, mild, uncomplicated and young. With Thomas Pichler, it's all a bit different. His two white wines - Chardonnay and Sauvignon - are full-fruited, soft drops and especially his Kalterersee 'Olte Reben' is a very unusual Vernatsch and yet a real classic: typical, fine almond aroma combines here with power as well as noticeable, but well-integrated tannin and results in a very distinctive wine. As the name of the wine suggests, the vines are very old (about 70 to 90 years) and Thomas Pichler knows how to guard this treasure.
Thomas Pichler (Source: Pichler) |
Lagrein, which grows on the same site as Vernatsch, is also a fine growth. And when, as here, delicacy is combined with the distinctive, direct aromas typical of Lagrein, the result is what makes a wine interesting and inviting.
The range will be completed by a Pinot Blanc in the future. Here, too, Thomas Pichler aims to combine power, fullness and fine elegance. One can be curious. The current production of about 10,000 bottles is to be expanded to a maximum of 20,000 bottles.
The farm-gate prices range from 6 to 15 euros.
Direct sales by appointment:
Weinbergweg 4, Kaltern
Tel.: +39 0471 963 094
pichler.thomas@dnet.it
The wines of Thomas Pichler in the Wein-Plus guide:
http://www.wein.plus/en/Weingut+Thomas+Pichler_2.
Useful addresses: Wine Point Kaltern (wein.kaltern): A cooperative dedicated to quality-oriented viticulture. The aim is to cultivate wine-growing traditions and to preserve the importance of wine culture for social life. A free information magazine is published quarterly, which provides comprehensive information about viticulture in and around Kaltern. South Tyrolean Wine Route Association: organises events in the wine-growing area such as the Wine Route Weeks, the Night of the Cellars, Day of Eppan Wine and many others. Freie Weinbauern Südtirol: Association of currently 82 self-marketing South Tyrolean wineries. An absolute must for every South Tyrolean wine lover: the Vinea Tirolensis, at which almost all member wineries present their current wines. This year on 23 August at Maretsch Castle in Bolzano. Roter Hahn: Offers accommodation on farms in South Tyrol. Among them are also many rural wine producers. The quality criteria are very strict and are checked annually. |
Restaurant recommendations: As many good wine producers there are now in Kaltern, there are many good restaurants here. All the establishments that have joined wein.kaltern are recommended. If only because of their large selection of high-quality wines on tap at reasonable prices. As I was unfortunately unable to visit all of them, only eight of the establishments listed in alphabetical order are described in more detail. Ansitz Windegg Badl Genusshotel Castel Ringberg Christl in the hole Gasthof Weißes Rössl Goldener Stern Gretl on the lake House on the slope Kalterer See Farm Keller am Keil Parc Hotel on the Lake Restaurant Ritterhof Schlosshotel Aehrental Seegarten Seehofkeller Lake Hotel Ambach Lake Pearl Siegi's food and drink Spuntloch Torgglkeller Weinhaus PUNKT A must in Kaltern: The Vinothek Battisti Margareth Battisti has been dedicated to the famous wines from South Tyrol, Piedmont, Tuscany, Friuli and other important wine-growing regions since 1957 (!). There is also a wide range of grappa, olive oil, aceto balsamico, dried and pickled specialities, homemade jams, alpine honey, pasta specialities and much more. Everything from the finest. Margareth Battisti lives completely for her business and values personal contact with customers above all else, which is why she doesn't find it necessary to set up a website. There is not even an e-mail address here. Where else can you find that these days? Other good restaurants (also outside the wine-growing areas) with hiking suggestions and cultural tips can be found in the recommendable book "Landgasthöfe in Südtirol" by Oswald Stimpfl; published by Folio-Verlag, Vienna-Bolzano(www.folioverlag.com). |
Überetsch - Part 3 - Kaltern