Innards have disappeared from most kitchens. What a pity! Because they offer exquisite flavour experiences, especially with wine. Top chef Max Stiegl and sommelier René Kollegger reveal their favourite combinations.
Innards are like the Christmas hit "Last Christmas": you either love them or you hate them. Anyone who not only eats the noble parts of animals, but is also a fan of the complete utilisation of a slaughtered creature, cannot avoid Max Stiegl in German-speaking countries. At the age of 21, he was the youngest star chef in the world. Today he is the patron of Gut Purbach on Lake Neusiedl in Austria and specialises in innards in all their forms. As Gut Purbach includes a small winery, it has also become a place of pilgrimage for wine lovers who are not limited to liver, lung, and caviar. In the winter months, Stiegl often organises a "Sautanz": the slaughtering and utilisation of a whole pig used to be a festival for everyone in the village. Fresh innards were prepared and eaten, sausages were stuffed together, the rest of the meat was preserved and there was music and dancing. Stiegl also took the "Sautanz" on tour in Germany, where it became famous through TV appearances on various cookery shows.
Riesling with residual sweetness or matured Sauvignon Blanc are the recommendation for Grenoble-style testicles
Max StieglHowever, he dismisses the question "Which wines go well with innards?": "That's as vague as the question: Which wine goes with game? Whether sugo, fillet, or curry: very different wines are suitable depending on the preparation method." He gives the example of two dishes made from intestines and stomachs: "Andouillette in France is different to Pasta Pajata in Italy. If I eat Nervetti made from veal or beef tendons in Italy, Prosecco, Franciacorta, or Champagne is a good match. When I prepare the tendons with soy sauce and yuzu, ginger, and chilli, I prefer something completely different."
Tongue is often served cured. Neutral, fresh and delicately creamy wines such as Pinot Blanc, Silvaner or Chablis-like Chardonnay are best suited to the saltiness and the accompanying sauces, which usually contain capers or horseradish. For Italian versions, a Vermentino or Verdicchio can also be used according to Stiegl.
Liver is served in many restaurants, often fried with marjoram and vinegar. "I stick to a young white wine, which balances out the strong taste of the liver. We eat the liver first at the Sautanz and in the early morning you don't want to drink anything heavy. In the evening, when I serve it in the restaurant with marjoram, apples, and persimmons, we recommend a light red Burgundy, subtly chilled—it goes well with the bitter flavours."
René Kollegger from Restaurant Am Pfarrhof in Styria, Gault&Millau Sommelier of the Year in Austria, takes a similar view. "With Berlin-style liver with apples and diced bacon, I recommend a Riesling with residual sweetness and the right acidity. So a Kabinett, a Spätlese or Auslese, preferably from the Mosel. Or a dry Silvaner. From Austria, I recommend Welschriesling." According to Kollegger, the acidity is very important: "You need acidity as a fat breaker for the usually rather fatty innards. That's why I like to use Riesling or mature, strong Sauvignon Blanc. These wines have a nice fruit spectrum and maturation notes. When it comes to red wine, I think of St. Laurent or Pinot Madeleine, because they are light-footed."
Sweetbreads are also often offered—the thymus gland located in the breast. The creamy, neutral dish goes well with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, or Grüner Veltliner—but for Kollegger, these must not have any dominant woody notes.
Fresh white wines go best with baked brain
Max StieglMost people probably know heart as ragout, which is often served with finely sliced lung strips in a cream sauce—well known in Austria as "Beuschel". René Kollegger likes to open a light to medium-bodied Riesling to accompany this, and if the sauce is light in colour. The darker the sauce, the stronger and riper the Riesling, also a single-vineyard wine. However, a Traminer also works well here. For Max Stiegl's favourite way to prepare heart, "raw, finely sliced like carpaccio, marinated with olive oil or pumpkin seed oil, horseradish or wasabi", he recommends sparkling wines or lighter red wines such as St. Laurent or Blaufränkisch from Eisenberg. The latter emphasises the delicate bloody note of the heart with its spiciness.
As a child, I wanted to eat brain with egg every day–wine wasn't an issue for me back then. Today, brain ist usually served baked. Fresh white wines such as Riesling, Chardonnay, or Grüner Veltliner go best with it—the same as with Wiener Schnitzel. Max Stiegl loves venison brains, first marinated in milk, then whipped until frothy. "Add some white truffle and a strong champagne, preferably a good Blanc de Blancs—then you have three rarities together!"
Kidneys are served as a ragout, similar to liver, or whole in a fat coating. Like Max Stiegl does, they can also be prepared as a stew. He agrees with René Kollegger on the choice of wine: Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay with an appropriate acid structure. A lighter Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch (Lemberger) as a red wine.
Gault&Millau Austrian Sommelier of the Year René Kollegger
Jürgen Schmücking"Blood sausage is meatless," says Max Stiegl with a wink. In Cologne and the Rhineland, "Himmel und Erde" (black pudding with mashed potatoes and apple pieces) is a staple. Riesling with residual sweetness or strong, matured Sauvignon Blanc go well with the fruity apple flavours. The latter also goes well with "Grenoble-style" bull testicles with lemons and capers. Testicles with mustard sauce also go well with a strong Grüner Veltliner. Stiegl welcomes the fact that these items are appearing more frequently on menus again, but wonders why they are so often coyly offered as "Alpine scallops" or similarly disguised: "Are mussels better than animals raised here?"
Cow's udders are a traditional dish, especially in Berlin in the form of baked "Berliner Schnitzel". Here too, dry, medium-bodied Riesling, Silvaner, and Grüner Veltliner are the best choice. Max Stiegl occasionally serves "Schnepfendreck". This is made by finely chopping the innards and entrails of a snipe, including the contents, processing them into a farce with egg, onion, bacon, and capers and toasting them on white bread. "This goes well with elegant, flavoursome red wines with character, such as Blaufränkisch or a light red Burgundy—it's amazing that something so simple can be so good! In Hungary, I once had a mature Tokaj with it. The sweetness is rather spicy again. Goose liver with such wines is also classic," enthuses Max Stiegl.
Snipe à la Max Stiegl—with "Schnepfendreck"
Max Stiegl"I particularly like fish innards," he continues: "Milchner (i.e. sperm) or roe (eggs) were once a tradition here. In Italy, we eat bottarga, and suddenly it's back in fashion here too. I recently got a sole roe—it tastes so good, you should eat it in front of the altar in St Peter's Basilica!" Spicy, tangy white wines with a fine flavour are also good accompaniments.
Baked fish liver with potato salad blossoms go with dry Furmint. Glazed with Jerusalem artichokes, deglazed with cherry vinegar, served with a few cubes of bacon and a Pinot Gris: the festive meal is complete.
The chef and the sommelier agree: "An animal dies for our survival, for our enjoyment. It is therefore a minimum requirement appreciation that not half of it is processed into dog or cat food. And there is a suitable wine for every dish!" However, they mentioned Riesling most frequently. It's clear: innards were long a prestige delicacy that were only prepared for the upper classes. The king of grape varieties is the perfect accompaniment.