Our bus driver shakes his head: "What? You want to go to the Barossa Valley? This is still firmly in German hands today!" Indeed, they are buried in the cemetery, the pioneers of yesteryear, the Schiller, Friedrich, Heinrich, Grosser, Ostermann, Schröder and what were all their names, the German emigrants at the end of the 19th century. Many of them found a new home in Australia, often closely connected to winegrowing.
Old grave in Tanunda cemetery in the heart of the Barossa Valley |
Josef Ernst Seppelt was one of these pioneers. He emigrated from Silesia (in what is now Poland) in 1849, planted the first vines in the Barossa Valley, which is warm and dry, and at the same time encouraged his neighbours to try vines too. His eldest son then realised his father's dream and built the first large vineyard. Today, a wine village is named after him: Seppeltsfield. His old winery - a showpiece from the late 19th century - is still the heart of a modern winery that has long been world-famous, especially for its sweet fortified wines, Tokay and Muscat, or even the "100 Year Old Para Liqueur" (220 euros - 100 ml). The history of the Seppelt family with its commitment to Australian viticulture - well into the third generation - represents a unique family saga.
Historic Winery of the Seppelt Family in the Barossa Valley |
The Langmeil Winery in Tanunda has a similarly long tradition. Christian Auricht, a blacksmith, also from Silesia, where the family was persecuted as Lutherans, came to South Australia in 1838. The family still owns the winery today. Their top wine "Freedom", a Shiraz (approx. 70 euros), is made from the grapes of what are probably the oldest vines (2 ha) in the country. They date back to 1843, because Australia has been spared from phylloxera. "Freedom" is the best wine I have drunk in Australia: it refutes everything that is so lightly said about Australian wines: full-bodied, fruit-driven, high in alcohol, broad, undifferentiated, juicy, spicy. It is indeed "typical", that is: it possesses many of the characteristics mentioned, but in a fine, harmonious, structured, independent way.
Probably the oldest vineyard in Australia with Shiraz vines dating back to 1843. |
Actually, it is quite different - for me even far better - than the highly paid top wines of Australia launched by former wine pioneers like Grange, Penfolds, Peter Lehman, which largely shape the reputation of Australian wine today. All these near or whole hundred point wines I have encountered only in the secured cabinets of the best bottle shops and in the duty-free shops of international airports. At most, they can be found on the wine lists of the most prestigious restaurants. What is offered here at auctions - at good prices - as Australian wine, all the numbered "bins" (designation for a unit, for a barrel), were created primarily for export. They represent a very small segment of wine from Australia.
Australian "luxury wines" - under lock and key - in the price category of 500 to 1000 euros. |
Of course, the large, but on the whole sparsely populated country tempts to large-scale production, also in wine. Jacob's Creek with a vineyard area of 300 hectares, Penfolds with over 100 and Peter Lehmann with a good 60 are examples of a type of viticulture and wine production that is not possible everywhere in Europe. The dimensions in Australia are simply different. But this says little about the quality of the wines. All these wineries, especially Penfolds and Lehmann, make wines that can easily compete in quality (and price) with the top of France or Tuscany. The size of the wineries largely determines the production methods - wineries often seemed like factories to me - and the way they are marketed. The small, individual, the winemaker's signature, the influence of the terroir, they largely seep away in large-scale production.
Chateau Dorrien in Tanunda belongs to the Seppelt family empire% and the newer Richmond Grove winery. |
I drank about 50 Australian wines on my trip through Australia. Not just tasted, no, drunk, mostly with very different food. I noted, recorded, tried to classify, to gain an overview. Even among the simple wines, I found quite a lot of good ones, actually very little "junk", as it is so often found in all European wine regions - with the unbelievable fragmentation of the wineries. Three examples of good and cheap Australian wines: Jamiesons Run 2008 (Cabernet Sauvignon) from the Limestone Coast region at 12 euros,; Fox Creek 2008 Duet (Cabernet/Merlot) from McLaren Vale, at 16 euros; Bourke Street 2008 (Shiraz) from the Canberra region at 17 euros.
I also encountered exceptionally interesting wines, such as the Cape d'Estaing Shiraz 2006 from Kangaroo Island or the Mount Pleasant Maurice O'Shea Shiraz 2007 from the Hunter Valley, probably one of the best Shiraz I have ever drunk.
Welcome to the Barossa Valley |
Of the five Australian wine regions, I visited only one, but drank wines from all of them. In the process, I learned a lot about Australian wines, recognised some of their peculiarities (for example, root authenticity) and actually had mostly good to very good wines in my glass. But I am not in love with Australian wine. It remains (for the time being) a respectful recognition.
Sincerely
Yours/Yours