Having just returned from South Africa, with a rich palette of experiences and visits to about thirty wineries, the impression of South African wines will not evaporate so quickly. But if you think I only drink (and describe) South African wine now, you're in for a surprise. But for today - it was something of an act of nostalgia - I am making an exception. One of the last wineries we visited was Glen Carlou, from the Hess family empire. A fruit bomb, cherries, chocolate, cassis - lots of Bordeaux, little South Africa. It's a good value, for that the prominent house of the Swiss wine pioneer, who has built up wineries on four continents, holds. So why not also in South Africa, near Stellenbosch. But the wine could just as well be from Australia, from Argentina, from California... The fact that it comes from South Africa is not immediately apparent. The Bordeaux orientation is too strong. One is never quite sure what is genuine - South African character and strength - and what has been created in the cellar with a lot of technique and good winemaking skills. This does not mean that the wine is inauthentic, but it is largely interchangeable. In this case, individuality means Hess (and his philosophy) rather than terroir or anything else typically South African.
South African. Good wines can also be "made". This special cuvée seems to me to be made, well made. It starts with the five grape varieties permitted in Bordeaux - even Malbec is in there (16 per cent) and probably ends with the ageing in French barriques for 18 months. There is hardly anything specific to the vintage or the growing region, and the finesse of a good Bordeaux is not to be found either. For this reason, I tended to avoid these wines on my South Africa tour. I don't have to look for Bordeaux there, unless it's because of its price. Because the price/performance value - compared to many renowned Bordeaux - is simply fantastic. It is hardly possible to buy a Bordeaux of this quality for around CHF 19 (including import from faraway Africa!).