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In times when red wines are getting darker, denser, more concentrated and extracted, a grape variety like Vernatsch does not have it easy. Not only does this ancient South Tyrolean grape variety produce rather light red wines, it is also stingy with both acidity and tannin. Not a few wine lovers therefore like to deride Vernatsch as a rosé in disguise.

But the decline of Vernatsch's reputation is not only due to its character traits, which many wine drinkers consider outmoded. South Tyrolean winegrowers also have their share. All too often, Vernatsch has been and still is abused as a mass-produced wine, sold in litre and double-litre bottles to tourists and on the shelves of German supermarkets. Thin and immature, as it often is in this form, Vernatsch ultimately confirms even the most unkind clichés.

Matured, carefully yield-reduced and from good sites, Vernatsch, on the other hand, produces a soft, fruity red wine that is tremendously animating at its best, and whose delicate spiciness makes it a versatile food companion to boot. Despite its light colour, moderate tannins and deep acidity, the best Vernatsch wines achieve an astonishing complexity and depth that is often sought in vain in the far more expensive, barrique-aged Lagrein, Cabernets or Merlots, which are unfortunately far too often overloaded with wood. In the meantime, more and more producers are coming to terms with the qualities of this variety, and today there are far more high-class Vernat wines in the region than would have been thought possible just a few years ago.

The pergola% traditional vine training for vines in South Tyrol% Source: EOS-Südtiroler Weinwerbung


As the qualities increase, the differences between the various origins also become more and more apparent. The most delicate and refined version of Vernatsch grows around Lake Kaltern. It is easy to be deceived by the first sip of this light red wine. The best versions, however, are so seductive and, for all their restraint, so complex and persistent that it is hard to resist them. They smell of red berries, dried flowers and almonds. An opened bottle is usually empty far too quickly to risk not having a second one ready.

The most powerful Vernatsch variety grows near Bolzano and is marketed as St. Magdalener. For the most part, these wines have considerably more melt, warmer fruit and firmer tannins. So it is no wonder that St. Magdalener often appeals to wine drinkers who would otherwise only warm to barrique-aged heavyweights. However, some producers are now accommodating these consumers by experimenting with at least small amounts of new oak, at least in the most powerful examples from good years. This is probably a capital error: where the wood aromas become obvious, the wines lose finesse, depth and length; the price of pandering to mass tastes is a considerable loss of identity and drinking pleasure.

Although it is basically permitted everywhere to add certain proportions of Lagrein and Pinot Noir to Vernatsch, this is apparently practised much more regularly in the Magdalener region. Interestingly, where it takes place, people mostly speak openly about the addition of Lagrein, whereas Pinot Noir is hardly mentioned, although the aroma of some wines suggests a certain amount of Pinot Noir. In most cases, however, Vernatsch fortunately retains the upper hand.

Between the two Vernatsch antipodes, Kalterersee and St. Magdalener, there are South Tyrolean Vernatsch, Grauvernatsch or Meraner, which can be found in all weight classes. Some producers now make prestige wines, partly from single vineyards, partly as special selections that are sold under their own names. Here, too, a little oak is sometimes added and sometimes some producers overdo it with ripeness and concentration, which in turn is at the expense of finesse and depth, but some of these top-quality Vernatsches are truly outstanding and rival many a Burgundy - not only those from South Tyrol.

Many South Tyrolean vineyards are steep slopes% Source: EOS-Südtiroler Weinwerbung


Vernatsch is generally regarded as a red wine that can be drunk young, and most of its fans appreciate the freshness and liveliness of these wines. The best wines, however, can refine over time and sometimes develop much more favourably than many barrique wines of the region, which often only become increasingly brittle and sooty. Some producers now deliberately produce Vernatsch that is only in its ideal form in the second year after harvesting. While the fresh, fruity varieties are often drunk slightly chilled, the more complex wines should be enjoyed at normal red wine temperatures and in large glasses.

A ripe Vernatsch grape% Source: www.laimburg.bz.it

As a food companion, Vernatsch is versatile like few other red wines. Not only the classic South Tyrolean snack is served at its best. Hardly any other wine is so easy to combine with cheese; salads, olives, aspic or even smoked fish are no problem either. Thanks to the moderate tannins and the deep acidity, Vernatsch can also be combined with dishes to which other reds taste hard and tinny. A fully grown St. Magdalener does not let itself be defeated by many a roast.

Our tastings over the last few weeks have brought to light a whole series of excellent, sometimes inspiring wines. Apparently 2006 was indeed a vintage that offered all possibilities. It is also pleasing that the failures were limited to a few individual wines, while the majority of the samples tasted are truly recommendable. We packed seven of the best wines into a package and sent them to the members of the Stammtisch, but many more drops deserve attention.

You will find the tasted wines of the 2006 vintage sorted by the respective DOC:

Kalterersee

St. Magdalener

Alto Adige

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