Soave and Lessini Durello

The Two from the Volcano

01 Jun, 23

of Marcus Hofschuster in Tasting Consorzio Tutela Vino Lessini Durello DOC

The fact that Soave is one of our favourites in the Italian wine world is evident from the number of times we have covered the subject. We have also said everything about its origin, its development, its quality and the criminal neglect of this wonderful wine by German consumers after they have lost their taste for soulless mass-produced goods.

Our own love for the wines from the often steep, partly terraced slopes of the central Soave area with its volcanic soils has not diminished in all the years we have been accompanying this theme; rather the opposite is the case. This is also due to the fact that we can now draw on more mature stocks from our archives all year round, which not only always provide proof of the good development potential of first-class Soave, but also make us curious about the current vintages every time.

The spectrum of Soave ranges from light-footed, uncomplicated, fresh everyday companions to deep and complex, smoky-mineral, more or less melting, but never ponderous character heads that are also uncomplicated to drink in most cases, but whose true quality can only be fathomed with sufficient time and attention. Soave is never conspicuously aromatic or fruity and therefore makes an extremely versatile food companion in all its manifestations. Especially the higher-class versions show their full strength here. And because it is the season: it also cuts a better figure with asparagus dishes than almost any other white wine.

A much more recent success story is that of Lessini Durello. The DOC has existed since 2011 and many of the best wines are only now on the market. Lessini Durello is basically a sparkling wine, predominantly from the autochthonous Durella variety. The cuvée must contain at least 85 percent Durella (Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero, Chardonnay and Garganega are also permitted), whereby the top wines almost always consist exclusively of Durella. However, it is not only the cuvée that determines the quality: a large proportion of all Lessini Durello is produced using the tank fermentation method and comes onto the market relatively soon after the 18 months of prescribed yeast maturation. Only the addition of "Riserva" or "Metodo Classico" on the label guarantees wines from classic bottle fermentation.

Even more decisive, however, is the maturation period. Wines released early are straightforward, light-fruited and slender and, ideally and with preferably little or no dosage, make refreshing, animating thirst quenchers. It gets exciting from 36 months onwards lees ageing, because the wines clearly gain in complexity and depth as well as suppleness and elegance. Lessini Durello are also increasingly coming onto the market after an even longer period lees ageing. Our heart beats for them, which can be clearly seen in the number of our favourite wines. They are, at their best, fascinating, complex, highly elegant, completely independent sparkling wines, such as can be found so exclusively here, in the beautiful area of the Lessini hills. Every sparkling wine lover should have tasted them at least once in his life. And it doesn't stop there anyway...

We have tasted 55 Soave and 19 Lessini Durello, of which we present the best ones here. Links to all tasted wines with tasting notes as well as the producers can be found at the end of the best lists.