Japanese cuisine is much more than just sushi - and the wine variations to the dishes are all the more exciting. Sommelier Christian Schuster from the Vienna restaurant Shiki knows what pairs well. Here are his tips.
The restaurant Shiki in Vienna was founded in 2015 by conductor and violinist Joji Hattori. The Japan-born and Austria-raised Hattori wanted to "counteract clichés about the cuisine of my homeland." In 2018, Shiki was awarded a Michelin star. This disproved "the prejudices that Japanese cuisine is limited to sushi, tempura, and noodle soups." By the way, the Japanese word "shiki" means "four seasons" as well as "to conduct.".
Sommelier Christian Schuster is driven by a "great love for wine and flavor variations," as he says. Due to the diversity of Japanese cuisine, he needs "completely different wines, as there are robust and intense dishes, but also simple and light ones." Therefore, it is difficult to establish universally valid basic rules for wine pairing. His goal is to optimally complement the components on the plate and in the glass. The wine should not overpower the dish, but it should not be in the background either. This is more the case with sake, which has always been brewed to accompany food. He prefers when the wines interact with the dishes, lighten them up, or provide a counterpoint.
Wines with longer maceration times pair well with Nasu eggplant
ShikiHowever, there are some important pairing rules for Japanese dishes to avoid overwhelming the precise aromas with wine. Wines in the dry late harvest style are usually too heavy for him. The spicier the dish, the higher the residual sweetness in the wine can be. The stronger the dish, the higher the alcohol content. And for fatty dishes, wines with higher acidity pair better. "Japanese dishes are characterized by high precision and elegance and are prepared with less fat compared to other national cuisines, but they are not absolutely fat-free," explains Schuster, "for tempura or wagyu beef, a corresponding acidity is therefore needed to balance it out." Umami, on the other hand, is not an issue for him: "In Japan, umami is also elegant. For example, dashi: it is light and intense at the same time. And almost fat-free, which is an exception in Asia."
Are there any "no-gos," or combinations to avoid? "Very heavy red wines do not pair well," emphasizes the sommelier, "but in the end, it has to taste good to the guest. And sometimes I find it easier with the classics from Burgundy or Bordeaux than with what I would personally drink with it. The focus of our wine list is on white wines from Austria, and for red wines, on Blaufränkisch, otherwise Burgundy and Bordeaux." The wine list at Shiki includes around 350 positions, and some treasures are available upon request from the sommelier.
Neutral wines should accompany Black Cod á la Nobu
Irina ThalhammerWe try a plate of sushi, specifically nigiri. There are scallops, amaebi (sweet shrimp), akami (tuna), and tamago (egg). For this, Christian Schuster recommends a medium-bodied red grape variety from the winery Gebeshuber*** from Austria and a champagne from Leclaire-Thiefaine***. The two wines showcase their strengths differently, and for me, the best combination is the tuna with the red grape variety. This regional specialty shows the texture of the limestone soils and exotic aromas, especially reminiscent of mango.
Does he have a basic recommendation for sushi – even if one orders it for delivery? "A good, somewhat stronger Grüner Veltliner pairs well with many dishes. Or a red grape variety with exotic fruit and fine minerality. Or even a Riesling. In any case, the wine needs enough body but should not be too strong. One must be careful with wines influenced by botrytis. Good sparkling wine always goes well with it. For sushi, I would choose something with a longer yeast aging, such as reserve sparkling wines or champagne; otherwise, the harmony suffers." Sushi is often seasoned with wasabi. This brings a certain element of spiciness. How does one best deal with that? "Our real, freshly grated wasabi has a spicy aroma, but the recommended wines can handle that. Cheap wasabi gets its spiciness from cheap mustard, which naturally disturbs the wines."
The next course is a Nasu eggplant, which is baked with miso. This traditional dish can be found on the menus of many Japanese restaurants in Europe. At Shiki, tomatoes are also added, similar to an Italian parmigiana. The paired Traminer Profund received a longer maceration time from Herbert Zillinger****. The fruit and bitterness of the wine play on the palate and structure the eggplant excellently. "Natural and orange wines can be very exciting and thrilling variants, especially for Japanese cuisine," says Schuster.
Then there is a traditional fish dish: Black Cod marinated with miso. It became internationally known through chef Nobu Matsuhisa. For this, we get a Chorey-lès-Beaune, a Chardonnay from Burgundy in the glass. A versatile wine classic that the restaurant imports itself and offers by the glass. Does Schuster also work with adaptable grape varieties like Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay? "They always work and are a safety net for the guests and for me. Personally, I find aged Welschriesling very exciting. The slender structure and spicy flavor of this wine pair well with many dishes. By aged, I mean: six to seven years."
For the shrimp tempura, he pours a Riesling Ried Gaisberg from the Weixelbaum winery in Kamptal. A finely structured, compact wine with subtle fruitiness. The mineral acidity highlights the tempura batter and the sweet shrimp once again. Riesling also pairs very well with scallops. For vegetable tempura, Schuster likes to use Sancerre because they are very versatile wines.
The sukiyaki, which is thinly sliced beef, is quite a challenge for the sommelier because it is very complex and sweetly seasoned with onsen egg, vegetables, and the strong mirin sauce. "I prefer to use dry wines rather than those with residual sweetness. I also like red wines. They should then be a counterpoint. Here, a fruit-forward, somewhat opulent wine style like Barbera or Merlot is needed." In fact, the Barbera Oltre Torrente only shows its strength in combination with the meat.
This dish perhaps best illustrates Christian Schuster's philosophy: "It very much depends on the accompaniment, seasoning, and sauces. I first look at: What is the lightest and what is the strongest component on the plate? Then I choose the wine. I explain this to the guests and guide them to where I think they will be happy."