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More and more consumers are showing interest in wine from organic grapes, and more and more producers are having their production certified organic. Until now, however, there has been no organic wine in the sense of EU legislation, only wine from organic grapes. However, private guidelines and controls for organic wine have existed for many years. Now politics seems to want to close this gap: The European Union wants to regulate organic wine production by law. Markus Blaser found out what is meant by "organic wine" and what regulations vintners and wine lovers will soon have to deal with.

Until now, there has been no actual "organic wine" in the sense of EU legislation. Spain and Switzerland do have national organic wine legislation, but these are exceptions. At the level of the European Union today, there are only regulations on organic grape production, but not on the processing of the same into wine. It is therefore correct to speak only of "wine from organic grapes" and not of organic wine.
However, in several countries, private organisations that carry out the organic certification of farms have developed their own standards also for organic wine production, which are stricter than the general EU regulations on winemaking. These private standards already contain certain regulations on permitted/unpermitted additives, sulphurisation and enrichment of wines and musts as well as permitted/prohibited processing techniques. Not a single standard pursues a "zero-input strategy". Thus, oenological substances and modern technology are also used in organic wine production.

Organic vineyards and total vineyard area
(in hectares, 2007)

Land

Organic

Total

Italy

36.684

770.000

France

22.509

830.000

Spain

17.189

1.200.000

U.S.A. (Bio: 2006)

9.177

380.000

Turkey

5.706

540.000

Greece

4.554

80.000

Moldova

4.327

145.800

Argentina

3.913

220.000

Germany

3.500

99.500

Chile

2.974

182.000

Austria

2.477

43.923

Portugal

2.021

195.590

China (Bio: 2005)

2.000

503.500

Iran

625

-

Hungary

576

86.800

New Zealand

540

23.000

Uzbekistan

515

99.200

Romania (Bio: 2008)

340

184.310

Switzerland

301

12.894

Bulgaria

299

120.341

South Africa

262

115.000

Slovenia

184

16.086

Czech Republic

183

15.000

Lebanon

180

12.500

Cyprus (total 2006)

174

15.045

Georgia

106

30.000

Croatia

82

27.000

Azerbaijan

78

7.496

Canada (Bio: 2005)

69

9.609

Slovakia

64

11.900

Macedonia

53

25.700

Uruguay (2006)

40

8.500

Great Britain

35

690

Netherlands

23

-

Albania

20

6.200

Morocco (Bio: 2008)

20

50.000

Syria

10

44.000

Armenia

8

13.000

Serbia

4

63.000

Denmark

4

-

Taiwan (2006)

1

-

Israel

-

5.900

Peru

-

11.500

Source: FAOSTAT/FiBL 2009
The organic area in Europe
According to a survey by Helga Willer of the Swiss Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL), 101,000 hectares of vineyards are cultivated organically in Europe (EU: 91,000 hectares). That is 2.3 percent of Europe's vineyard area (EU 2.5 percent). This means that organic viticulture still occupies a niche position, but the situation is likely to change rapidly. Between 2006 and 2007 alone, the organic area increased by seven per cent, and from 2004 to 2007 by as much as 40 per cent! It is to be expected that significantly more organic wine will reach the market in the next few years, especially from Italy, France and Greece.

1. The Orwine Project

In the Organic Farming Regulation 834/2007, the EU stipulated that in addition to grape production, organic winemaking should now also be regulated by law. In order to be able to develop such organic wine legislation, the EU Commission commissioned the Orwine project (Orwine = organic wine). It started at the beginning of 2006 and will be completed in spring 2009.

The project pursued two overarching goals: First, to provide a scientific basis for EU organic wine legislation, and second, to develop a code of best practice for organic wine production (see box). Under the overall coordination by Cristina Micheloni of the Associazione Italiana Agricoltura Biologica (AIAB), practically all important organic organisations, research institutes and experts from the European organic wine world participated in the project. In addition, both winegrowers and consumers were involved in the project through surveys. From the market study to the testing of certain methods in pilot wineries, the project was extremely broad-based and therefore provides a wealth of information, which is made available to all interested parties on the website www.orwine.org. But what do the Orwine experts recommend in concrete terms?

2. Where, what and how to regulate

The EU Commission has decided to regulate organic wine production within the framework of the legislation on organic farming and not within the framework of the legislation on the Common Market Organisation for Wine (CMO). The international Orwine experts share this decision, which means that the organic rules take precedence over the CMO rules. However, the latter are to be respected by establishing clear links between organic wine and CMO legislation. Furthermore, there should be regulations on additives in wine as well as on winemaking techniques. A negative list of prohibited techniques and a positive list of substances with limit values that should be allowed in organic wine production are recommended. A controversial issue here is the question of sulphurisation.

Organic wine - an attempt at a definition

"Organic wine is a good wine that retains the characteristics of the grape, the site and the growing system from which it comes, and is free from additives, processing aids and techniques that could negatively affect human health (producer and consumer), the environment and the integrity of

the product. Some essential (for quality) additives of non-natural origin may be used, but to a limited extent and only when really necessary." Source: Orwine, Executive summary of deliverable 5.8. proposal and recommendations for improvement of EU Regulation 2092/91. Brusselns 2nd of April 2009, p. 5 (Translation: mb)

3. Oenological substances

The Orwine experts recommend 31 substances for inclusion in the positive list of permitted additives for organic wine production (Table 2). The majority of these are substances that are already permitted under EU legislation in both conventional winemaking and organic farming or are at least permitted in private organic wine standards.

These substances also meet with general acceptance among the approximately 1000 organic winegrowers, wine merchants and wine experts surveyed. Except for beta-glucanase and wood tannins, there are reservations in individual countries. And in the case of wood chips, opinions are divided: Half of the vintners and experts would like to ban them for organic wines, while the other half would like to allow them.

Possible positive list of permitted additives
for organic wine production

Substance

Limit value/comment

Selected active dry yeasts

Selected lactic acid bacteria

Pectolytic enzymes

Beta-glucanase

Concerns in individual countries

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C)

250 mg/l

Gum arabic

Isinglass

Potassium bitartrate

Potassium bicarbonate

Calcium carbonate

Tartaric acid

Citric acid

1 g/l

Potassium alginate

Calcium tartrate

200 g/hl

Metartaric acid

100 mg/l

Aleppo pine resin

Plant proteins

Yeast mannoproteins

Wood chips, cubes and sticks

Divided opinions

Bentonite

Kaolin

Charcoal

Silicon dioxide

Diatomaceous earth

Perlite

Cellulose

Tannins

Concerns in individual countries (wood tannins)

Thiamine hydrochloride

0.6 mg/l

Diammonium phosphate

1 g/l

Yeast cell walls

40 g/hl

Copper sulphate

1 mg/l

Source: Orwine, Executive summary of deliverable 5.8 Proposal and
recommendations for improvement of EU Regulation 2092/91
Brussels 2nd of April 2009

While there is broad agreement on the additives in the previous table, it is more difficult to regulate some substances that may cause allergies. These substances are rejected by the majority of consumers but considered useful by winegrowers (see table below). Their use is classified as acceptable by the Orwine experts and a ban is not recommended, so that they could be included in the positive list, if necessary with limits still to be defined. Again, the position of winegrowers and experts on lysozyme is divided: about half each would like to allow or ban it for organic wines (see box on sulphurisation)

Potentially allergenic but useful substances in organic winemaking

Substance

Protein

Lactalbumin

Casein

K-casein

Lysozyme

Gelatine

Source: Orwine, Executive summary of deliverable 5.8 Proposal and
recommendations for improvement of EU Regulation 2092/91
Brussels 2nd of April 2009

There are major concerns about ammonium sulphate and diammonium sulphite, which are allowed in conventional winemaking but can lead to high SO2 levels in wine. Since they are not considered indispensable by winegrowers and can also be replaced by other substances, they should rather not be included in the positive list or, if they are, then only with limit values.

Finally, there is agreement that substances that are permitted in conventional winemaking, not permitted in organic farming and not provided for or prohibited in private organic standards should not be permitted in organic winemaking.

Additives to be banned for organic wine production

Substance

Limit value *

Sorbic acid

Potassium sorbate

Potassium ferrocyanide

DMDC (dimethyldicarbonate)

Calcium phytate

8 g/hl

PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone)

80 g/hl

* in conventional winemaking
Source: Orwine, Executive summary of deliverable 5.8 Proposal and
recommendations for improvement of EU Regulation 2092/91
Brussels 2nd of April 2009

Now there are some additives that are not yet allowed for winemaking but could soon be allowed by EU legislation. Of these, only copper citrate (max. 20 g/hl) should also be allowed in organic winemaking, all other substances should remain prohibited.

New additives that should remain prohibited for organic winemaking

Substance

Limit value *

Lactic acid

4 g/l

Malic acid

4 g/l

Carboxymethyl cellulose

Oleic acid

* in conventional winemaking
Source: Orwine, Executive summary of deliverable 5.8 Proposal and
recommendations for improvement of EU Regulation 2092/91
Brussels 2nd of April 2009

4. Sulphurisation

The most talked about issue in the Orwine project was the sulphurisation of wines, in all countries except Germany and partly Austria. Consumers in particular are very sceptical or even strongly opposed to sulphur dioxide: Sulphur sounds "unhealthy", evokes "strange smell" and "headaches".

A small minority of organic wine producers (less than ten per cent, but in many countries) share these concerns to the extent that they advocate a complete ban on SO2 in organic wine production. However, the vast majority of producers and consumers believe that it is not possible to produce a qualitatively appealing organic wine without sulphur, and this is in line with the research results of the Orwine project: it is not possible to do completely without SO2, but it is technically possible to reduce sulphur levels considerably compared to the limits of the current EU wine legislation (Table 6).

EU limits for SO2 (in mg/l; conventional winemaking)

Residual sugar content/wine type

Red

White

less than 5 g/l residual sugar

160

210

more than 5 g/l residual sugar

210

260

Source: Orwine, Executive summary of deliverable 5.8 Proposal and
recommendations for improvement of EU Regulation 2092/91
Brussels 2nd of April 2009

Most private standards already prescribe significantly lower maximum values for organic wines. But what is really pleasing is that most organic wines already fall below these maximum values. 510 out of 580 analysed dry red wines (almost 90 percent) have an SO2 value of 80 mg/l, which is half as much as legally permitted!

The focus is therefore on a scenario of gradually reducing sulphur levels by 20, 30 and finally 50 per cent. 99 per cent of the 914 organic wines analysed in the project already manage the 20 per cent reduction in sulphur levels, 98 per cent even manage with 30 per cent less SO2 (the wines came mainly from France and Italy, only a few wines from Germany and Switzerland were analysed).

The organic winegrowers of France and Switzerland strive for these values, while their Italian and Spanish colleagues even suggest a reduction of more than 50 percent compared to conventional wines. If it were up to the overwhelming majority of producers, it would be no problem to legally stipulate 20 to 30 percent lower SO2 limits for organic wine immediately ? if it weren't for the German and Austrian organic winegrowers.

The Germans in particular reject any reduction of the sulphur limits for organic wines compared to conventional wines (arguments: see box). They are worried about the quality of their wines, especially if the weather does not cooperate, and about the organic wine image. As understandable as these fears are: It would not be logical not to introduce the stricter standards expressly desired by the vast majority of producers (and also consumers) out of consideration for a small minority.

The situation is different for organic speciality wines (small production, locally very different traditions). Here, the Orwine recommendation is not to prescribe lower sulphur dioxide levels compared to conventional speciality wines.

How to reduce sulphurisation
The addition of sulphur dioxide during vinification is done for several reasons: It has an anti-mibrobial effect, protects the wine from oxidation and stops the activity of enzymes. An Orwine sub-project tried to find out experimentally how these goals can be achieved with lower amounts of SO2. The most important results:
  • Microbial contamination can be avoided by yeast starter cultures, with the addition of lysozyme limiting the growth of lactic acid bacteria. Similar effects result from the use of cross-flow microfiltration, flash pasteurisation or lowering the ph value by adding tartaric acid. How great the effect of spraying wine yeasts on the grapes immediately before harvest needs further research. Also, official approval from the EU and member countries would still have to be obtained for such treatment.
  • Alcoholic fermentation should be determined by selected yeast strains that produce little SO2. Ammonium phosphate can be used instead of sulphate, and thiamine can be used to reduce SO2-binding substances, which means that less SO2 needs to be added.
  • Hyperoxidation, in which oxygen is added to the must in doses, can reduce the tendency to oxidise in white grapes. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tannins can also act as oxidation inhibitors, which also protect natural antioxidants such as glutathione from decay. Reductive winemaking is recommended for certain grape varieties.

5. Oenological processes

Most of the methods used in vinification are mechanical or thermal processes that are perfectly compatible with organic principles. The Orwine experts therefore recommend that a negative list be drawn up of those techniques that should be banned for organic vinification, both for techniques that are already permitted in the EU for conventional wine production and for those that are still banned but could soon be permitted.

Possible negative list of oenological processes to be banned

  • Wine separation techniques (centrifugal cone column, reverse osmosis for wine, distillation ...)
  • Ultra- and nanofiltration of wines
  • Cryoconcentration of musts and wines

The following techniques were also intensively discussed, with different weighting of concerns depending on the country:

  • Reverse osmosis in musts
  • Must evaporation
  • Ion exchange resins for musts and wines (except for must concentrates)

According to EU legislation, conventional wines may be fortified by means of sugaring or grape must concentrate to increase the alcohol content, and evaporation, cryoconcentration and reverse osmosis are also allowed for the same purpose. According to the negative list, these concentration techniques are to be prohibited for organic wine production. On the other hand, sugaring and the addition of must concentrate are to be permitted, provided that this enrichment is carried out with organic ingredients. Organic winegrowers should therefore be allowed to produce their own must concentrate for enrichment, but this still requires a specification of the permitted methods: If reverse osmosis were also banned for concentrate production, only somewhat "brute" methods such as boiling down, vacuum evaporation, grape drying or freezing or hypersulphurisation would remain, as well as the use of ion-exchange resins for the production of rectified grape must. Incidentally, the majority of organic winegrowers (with the exception of Germany and Austria) would like to further limit enrichment compared to conventional wine production.

6. Conclusion and further steps

How are these results to be assessed with regard to the EU legislation on organic wine production that is to be drafted? First of all, we should certainly acknowledge the immense amount of work that has been done over three years by dozens of people with great dedication and commitment. The Orwine project has clearly fulfilled the task of providing the necessary scientific resources for a contemporary regulatory framework. It sets new standards that no one who wants to have a say in organic wine can ignore.

It was not the task of the project to formulate a concrete proposal for the new rules, but to get an overall picture of the possibilities and opinions by means of research, trials on farms in numerous countries and a broad involvement of producers and experts. Above all, the survey of hundreds of organic winegrowers from all over Europe showed that many producers are passionate about a product that they want to produce as close to nature as possible, with respect for the health of wine lovers as well as the environment.

Therefore, one could have imagined that the project results would have made it a little clearer where the journey is to go: Do we need stricter rules for organic wine production or are more tolerant regulations sufficient? For example, the Orwine managers could perhaps have been a little bolder and recommended a 20 to 30 percent reduction in sulphur levels for organic wines, but they are scientists, not political advisors, and therefore preferred to simply document the different positions on the "sulphur question" and their effects within the framework of scenarios. Conversely, wood chips or lysozyme are proposed for approval, although the opinions of experts and winegrowers alike are divided on these two substances.

Nevertheless, the Orwine project wants to get down to brass tacks on essential issues: The most questionable synthetic additives will be banned, the setting of reduced sulphur values is quite likely and those methods that turn the natural product "wine" into an industrially standardised "drink" are excluded for organic wine. These are good prerequisites for the legislative mill that is now beginning to grind in Brussels. Now it is up to the EU Commission and politicians to implement the experts' recommendations in such a way that the new EU organic wine legislation brings us what we expect from organic wine: a natural, unadulterated and digestible wine.

The Orwine Code of Practice
The different ways of organic wine production are described by Orwine experts in a so-called Code of Practice for good organic wine production. This is a detailed handbook that will be published in five languages in summer 2009. The code is intended to complement the planned rules in the Organic Farming Regulation and to show winegrowers numerous options for action.

To Part 2:
The new EU organic law - better than its reputation

The above article was kindly made available to us by the MERUM editorial team.

ALL PHOTOS IN THIS ARTICLE - COPYRIGHT MERUM

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