The price worthiness of a wine is often discussed among wine lovers. However, because the dispute rarely goes beyond the exchange of individual perspectives, terms like cheap, inexpensive and expensive can at best be brought to a common denominator in small circles. At best. Because it is precisely there that the sharpest debates about appropriate wine prices often break out.
The price worthiness of a wine depends on the perception of the respective consumer. And the perception, in turn, depends on individual life circumstances. Am I a wine lover or not, do I have a fat bank account or always too much money left over at the end of the month, do I drink regularly, excessively or only on special occasions.
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| from left to right: Klaus Dahlbeck%Uwe Bende% Christine Dördelmann% Susanne Spies% Markus del Monego |
In 2003, 97.3% of all bottles sold in Germany had a retail price of less than five euros. What is the upper pain threshold for the majority of consumers is the lower end of the price scale for wine lovers. "After the changeover to the euro, a sound barrier of 5.99 euros has crystallized in the trade. Above that, very little is sold", Markus del Monego, managing director of the Essen-based wine consulting company Caveco, says. The former world champion sommelier and Master of Wine is sitting in the conference room of the Dortmund star restaurant "La Table" on July 7th and is tasting red and white wines together with sommeliers Susanne Spies and Christine Dördelmann as well as wine lovers Uwe Bende and Klaus Dahlbeck, whose retail sales prices are below six euro. These blind tastings have been taking place for nine years now, and specialist retailers from the greater Ruhr area have been able to put their personal favourites from their own segment to the test. And this is independent of vintage, grape variety and growing region. The decisive factor is the current enjoyment value. The consumer interest in the results is immense year after year, because in the jungle of offers of specialized dealers and supermarkets many potential buyers have long lost the overview.
Between five and six euro, one of the most interesting interfaces in the wine market can be found - because for some it is the maximum investment, for others it is the entry category. The comparative samples of the past few years, for which an average of 33 traders each lined up a white and a red wine, showed, above all with the white wines, how good many drops in this price segment can be. While in previous years, the uniform aroma of ice drops was often annoying, this time it was only noticeable in very few wines. The race was won by a 2003 Nava Real from Rueda by Bodegas Alvarez y Diez with intense fruit. In the nose aromas of apricot, mango, passion fruit and cassis. Balanced on the palate with pleasantly mild acidity and good length. Monego: "We were recently in Spain with a group and visited some interesting bodegas there. Afterwards, we were all fans of Spanish white wine. Many there have invested in modern cellar technology in recent years. That's paying off now."
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| The best wines under 6.- |
With the red wines, it became more difficult: Some suspected cases of Brettanomyces caused the jury to snort. All the more pleasing were the positive outliers. First and foremost, a 2002 Blauer Spätburgunder from Baden from the Ziereisen winery lit up the mines. In the nose very fine, smooth, with discreet fruit and well differentiated. That made you want more. Surprising was the good ranking of a wine of the new grape variety Acolon from the Württemberger Kellerei Heuchelberg. Acolon is a cross between Lemberger and Dornfelder. During the test, the wine convinced by clean fruit, a hint of wild berries in the nose, good structure and mild tannins. This was enough for 4th place.
All results of the best ten red and white wines with purchase addresses and tasting notes can be found at www.rewirpower.de. Moreover, there is the possibility to order a package with the three test winners red and white until 24.7.2004.