South Tyrol Tastings 2009

Sauvignon Praesulis by Markus Prackwieser - the best white wine of this year's tastings

The whites benefited from the comparatively low average temperatures and for the most part showed an elegant structure and mineral components. This was especially evident in the Sauvignon Blanc, where the wines from Franz Pratzner/Falkenstein, H. Lun, Christian Plattner/Ansitz Waldgries, K. Martini, Josef Weger, Loacker, Markus Prackwieser/Gumphof as well as the Girlan, Nals Margreid, Kurtatsch, Bozen and Ersten & Neuen wineries stood out. In the Pinot Blanc category, the dense, intense growths from the Vinschgau region by Martin Aurich/Castel Juval and Franz Pratzner showed the potential of this grape variety, which is the most widespread in South Tyrol. The Traminer wines were outstanding again this year. South Tyrol has a 'debt to pay' because of the town of the same name, but it is casually honoured. First-class wines are not only to be found in the Tramin area, but also in the Eisack Valley, where the wines are not so intense and lush, but rather mineral and cool. The best examples of our tastings came from the wineries of Girlan, Tramin, Sankt Pauls, Meran, Bozen, Kurt Rottensteiner/Brunnenhof, Alois Ochsenreiter/Haderburg, Josef Unterfrauner/Zöhlhof and Josef Niedermayr. Worth mentioning among the whites this year are again the white wines of the Valle Isarco, which are rather unknown to us but in great demand in Italy. The grape varieties Sylvaner, Kerner and Veltliner, which are also known in Germany and Austria, are cultivated here. In addition to a distinctive varietal aroma and freshness, they also show a southern fullness, which, if the alcohol is kept within limits, is a real enrichment. The most reliable producer here is Christian Kerschbaumer/Garlider. However, the wines of Josef Unterfrauner/Zöhlhof, Johannes Baumgartner/Strasserhof, Alois Ochsenreiter/Obermairlhof and the growths of the Eisacktaler Kellerei are also to be recommended.

Magdalener Rielerhof - a classic from Vernatsch believer Josef Brigl

Among the red vintage wines, the Vernatsch in its various varieties provided the most pleasant surprises, as it has done in recent years. The everyday wine from South Tyrol, so often reviled in the past, is now a guarantee for carefree drinking pleasure at a high level, at least in the normal bottle - and with some producers a real hammer, as the Sankt Magdalener wines from the likeable South Tyrolean veteran Franz Gojer/Glögglhof, from the Vernatsch believer Josef Brigl, from the newcomer Christian Plattner and from Johannes Pfeifer/Pfannenstielhof show. These are wines with depth and complexity that are rarely found in this price range ( 5 to 8 euros). But also the other classic Vernatsch wines, such as Kalterersee, the growths from Burggrafenamt near Merano and Unterland have often more than earned the rating "excellent". Although it generally enjoys a higher status, Lagrein cannot hold a candle to Vernatsch when it comes to simple vintage wines. The rosè varieties, known in South Tyrol as 'Kretzer', are the best. Egger-Ramer, Niedermayr, Castelfeder, H. Lun and Josef Weger delivered wines in this category that are a pleasure to drink as elegant accompaniments to food or as terrace wines in the warm season.

The matured wines

Much has improved in South Tyrol in recent years in the area of mature wines. The reds are being vinified with more and more stylistic confidence. More emphasis is placed on suitable sites and clones than on toasting the wood, and the result is often fine, animating wines, even from varieties such as Cabernet and Merlot, from which one was not necessarily accustomed until now. Klaus Lentsch from Branzoll, Gert Pomella, the Niedermayr Winery with its Euforius and Stephan Sölva with the Cuvée Edizione Amistar have become safe addresses here.

Of many good Pinot Noirs, the best this year is Maso delle Rose 2004 by Johannes Weger

The most elegant mature red wines in South Tyrol are made from Pinot Noir. Along with the autochthonous Lagrein and Vernatsch, Pinot Noir has been chosen as one of the red 'leading varieties' and the winegrowers dedicate themselves to this difficult Burgundy with great commitment and ambition. This year's outstanding wine was the "Maso delle Rose" 2004 by Josef Weger from Girlan, who delivered one of the best collections of this year's tasting. But also the wines from the wineries Kössler, Laimburg, Tramin, H. Lun, Sankt Pauls, Erste & Neue, Meran, Girlan and K. Martini as well as from Martin Aurich/Unterortl are of remarkable quality and disprove that there are only high-quality Pinot Noirs in the well-known sites of the Unterland like Mazzon. Here, too, the small Feruccio Carlotto winery once again delivered a remarkable wine, as it does every year.

The development of the mature Lagrein is also very pleasing. This variety has a rather rustic character, which in the past often led many producers to use a lot of wood to create a superficial impression

Terraced vineyards in the Eisack Valley (Source: EOS Export Organisation South Tyrol)

impressive, but ultimately rather uninteresting wines. In the meantime, despite good reviews from the authoritative wine guides, many producers seem to be tired of this type of wine and produce fruitier, finer wines that are very animating despite their rustic nature. The best examples this year came from Josef Weger, Niedermayr, Laimburg, Christian Plattner/Ansitz Waldgries, Happacherhof, Messnerhof, Schmid-Oberrautner, Feruccio Carlotto, Johannes Pfeifer/Pfannenstielhof, Josephus Mayr, Castell Sallegg, Ritterhof, Egger-Ramer, Josef Brigl, Stefan Vaja and the Kurtatsch, Tramin, Sankt Pauls, Merano and Bolzano wineries.

In South Tyrol, some white wines also need a certain amount of time to mature, especially Sauvignon and Traminer as well as some Cuvées. In the case of Sauvignon, the best results came from the Tramin, Girlan, St. Michael Eppan, H. Lun and Haderburg/Alois Ochsenreiter wineries and, as has been the case for some years now, from Peter Dipoli, whose Voglar never fails to impress.

Shows that whites can also mature in South Tyrol - the Riserva Bianca from the Girlan Winery

Among the Traminers, it was the Riserva qualities of the Tramin (Nussbaumer 2007), Kurtatsch (Amrita 2007), Nals Margreid (Baron Salvadori) and Bozen (Kleinstein) wineries as well as the Ritterhof from Kaltern (Crescendo line) that most impressively demonstrated the ripening potential of this variety.

The Tramin, Girlan and H. Lun wineries also demonstrated the development potential of South Tyrolean white wines with their cuvées of Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and complementary varieties such as Traminer and Riesling.

Exciting sparkle: South Tyrolean sparkling wine

Participating for the first time and immediately a top result - the Comitissa by Lorenz Martini

Every year, the South Tyrolean sparkling wines cause great joy at our tastings. This year, especially because two more producers, the Sankt Pauls Winery and Lorenz Martini, took part - and achieved outstanding results with their products. But also because we were able to taste the 1999 Riserva Hausmannhof from Alois Ochsenreiter/Haderburg, a sparkling wine that is already special because of its maturity. The fact that Josef Reiterer/Arunda-Vivaldi once again delivered a first-class collection can no longer surprise anyone, but should of course not go unmentioned. All these sparkling wines are prepared in traditional bottle fermentation and matured for at least three years. Normally, this is not necessarily a guarantee of exceptional quality. In South Tyrol it apparently is.

Dessert wines: The finest

At the top level for years - the Rosenmuskateller from Christian Plattner

When it comes to the niche product of dessert wines, the South Tyroleans really come up trumps. The five best rated wines in our tastings come from this category: The Chardonnay Passito 'Aurum' 2007 from Happacherhof, the Rose Muscatel 2007 from Christian Plattner/Ansitz Waldgries, the 'Maso delle Rose "Rodon"' 2004 from Josef Weger as well as the Rose Muscatel 'Rajas' 2007 and the Gewürztraminer 'Amrita' from the same year from the Kurtatsch Winery show the possibilities for high-quality sweet wines in South Tyrol and the variety of flavours they have to offer.

Conclusion: With the wines presented this year, South Tyrol once again confirms its position as one of Italy's outstanding wine regions. And there are three main reasons for this. First: Absolute reliability at a high level in the wines for everyday enjoyment. Secondly: Stimulating diversity, both in terms of varieties and wine styles. Thirdly: Safety; no matter where you buy, whether from cooperatives, private wineries or self-marketers - you generally get very good to excellent wine everywhere.