For a long time, the discerning wine drinkers of my generation gave Kaltern a wide berth. They went to Tuscany, Piedmont and Friuli. At that time, Kaltern belonged to the Törggelen tourists, who were very happy here with thin wine, Wiener schnitzel and roast pork. Today, the beautiful wine village on the lake of the same name has at least as much to offer as the well-known wine villages of the aforementioned regions: an unbelievable variety of high-quality wines from both the large wineries and many smaller self-marketers, which are fortunately becoming more and more.
Kaltern Winery: In the green with top wines
The winegrowers of the Solos Group (source: Kaltern Winery) |
The Solos line currently includes a white wine cuvée of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon, a Gewürztraminer and a Vernatsch. For the future, an expansion of the assortment is being considered. Unlike the Castel Giovanelli wines, they are certified by Demeter and marketed as biodynamic wines. With retail prices ranging from 8 to 13 euros, they are priced in the middle range. Other wines worth mentioning are above all the winery's Pfarrhof bottlings. The entire range includes 20 white wines and 19 reds. Prices range from 4.90 euros (Kaltersee Auslese) to 24.90 (Passito Castel Giovanelli).
Direct sales at the Winecenter, Bahnhofstrasse 7, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 966 067
info@kellereikaltern.com
www.kellereikaltern.com
The wines of the Kaltern Winery in the Wine-Plus Guide:
www.wein-plus.de/italien/Kellerei%2BKaltern_55301.html
Baron di Pauli: Focus on quality
The Baron di Pauli winery has set itself a high goal: the production of the highest quality red and white wines. What matters here is "quality and nothing else," says Christian Gschnell, Baron di Pauli's committed and wine-loving sales manager. Two top vineyards are cultivated: Arzenhof near Lake Kaltern and Höfl unterm Stein near Tramin. The grapes for the red wines (Kalterersee, Lagrein and a cuvée of Cabernet and Merlot) grow on the former, while those for the Gewürztraminer and the white wine cuvée 'Enosi' grow in Tramin.
The Höfl unterm Stein vineyard (source: Baron di Pauli) |
Concentration of aromas characterises many Baron di Pauli wines. They are often dense and highly aromatic, but never heavy. On the contrary: especially in the white wines, the racy, mineral notes predominate; for all their concentration, they often seem leaner than they are. And in terms of taste, they are always unusual wines: the white wine cuvée 'Enosi', for example, already because of its varietal composition (Riesling, Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc), the Kalterersee 'Kalkofen' because of its very strong structure for a Vernatsch. On site, you can buy the products of the house at prices between 8.50 and 29.90 euros.
Direct sales at the Winecenter, Bahnhofstrasse 7, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471-966 067
info@barondipauli.com
www.barondipauli.com
The wines of Baron di Pauli in the Wein-Plus guide:
www.wein-plus.de/italien/Weingut%2BBaron%2Bdi%2BPauli_55496.html
Manincor: Self-willed and considerate
Self-willedness and consideration - that sounds contradictory at first. At Manincor, this contradiction is resolved. Both the wines and the architecture of the newly built winery are idiosyncratic. But just as the new building, which is mostly underground, fits into the ambience of the winery, which is characterised by the 400-year-old main building, the natural foundations are treated with the same consideration in wine production at Manincor.
In 2006, the entire production was converted to biodynamic agriculture. For Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg, the owner of Manincor, "biodynamics is the best method of achieving well-structured, complex, authentic and fine wines through the improvement of soil properties, the harmonious growth of the vines, thanks to greater resistance and a well-run fermentation.
Count Michael Goess-Enzenberg (Source: Manincor) |
To truly understand Manincor, you have to go into the estate vineyards. Here you can experience what is important to the owners as well as to the managing director, Helmuth Zozin, who has been responsible for the estate since 2008: a harmonious environment consisting of living soil and a varied fauna. Besides chickens and bees, there are now also sheep. "The sheep," says Count Michael, "provide natural fertilisation, keep the grass low and bring the animal soul to the vineyard. There will also be horses again one day." But it's not just about the practical benefits. "Where there are animals, there is simply a livelier atmosphere," Helmuth Zozin says. "And just like everything else - the nearby Montiggl forest, Lake Kaltern - they contribute their share to a harmonious whole. There are no patent recipes in biodynamics." Some colleagues who are amazed at the effectiveness of biodynamic methods often ask him if he can tell them one or two recipes. "But it isn't. You always have to keep the whole picture in mind and ensure a positive environment that promotes qualitative growth. Only within this framework do the biodynamic remedies then have an effect." Or, according to Count Michael: "Biodynamics requires people to dedicate themselves to their work with full awareness. For example, when oak trees are fetched for the wine barrels from the estate's own forest near the Leuchtenburg on Lake Kaltern, and the wood waste is processed into wood chips for heating; or when the estate produces its own compost - organic farms have only been allowed to compost their own marc since 2009.
Manincor owns 50 hectares of vineyards - of course, a not inconsiderable amount of wine is produced. 300,000 bottles are produced in normal years, divided among 15 labels. The white wines - Cuvée "Réserve della Contessa", Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon - come from vineyards near Terlan; the Goldmuskateller and the reds - Vernatsch, Lagrein, Blaube - come from the vineyards near Terlan. Vernatsch, Lagrein, Pinot Noir, Cabernet, the varietal cuvée "Cassiano" and the top wine "Castel Campan" - come from the vineyards around the winery on Lake Kaltern. They are all extremely exciting, multi-layered and, as mentioned at the beginning, very individual wines. Great importance is attached to finesse and elegance: you will not find superficial powerhouses among the Manincor wines. The ex-farm prices range between 10 and 50 euros.
Direct sales: Monday - Friday: 9.30 - 12.30 and 13.30 - 18.00, Saturday: 10.00 - 17.00;
St. Josef am See 4, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471-960230
info@manincor.com
www.manincor.com
The wines of Manincor in the Wine Plus Guide:
http://www.wein.plus/en/Winery+Manincor_2.0.
First + New: Everything Remains New
Verona, April 2010: A visit to Erste & Neue at their always busy stand. As every year, there was a lot going on and the visitors were visibly satisfied. The familiar picture. And yet somehow everything was different: more businesslike, simpler, clearer. A look at the bottles confirmed this: The labels of the wines were unrecognisable and looked extremely minimalist. The Erste & Neue lived up to the second part of its name in particular and had completely renewed its appearance. The quality of the wines: good as always. Nothing had changed.
Gerhard Sanin (Source: Erste + Neue) |
However, the renewal of Erste + Neue, which is oriented towards preserving and maintaining valuable traditions, is not limited to the outward appearance of the label, it is much more substantial. And since the substance of every wine originates in the vineyard, this is also where the most drastic changes have taken place in recent years. "The most important thing for us was to concentrate on what is best in the respective sites. For example, in the high vineyards above the village we have reduced the proportion of Vernatsch in favour of white wine varieties (Sauvignon and Pinot Blanc) and concentrated on the historically good sites around Lake Kaltern for Vernatsch. What is happening in the vineyard is what the redesign of the labels is meant to express: 'The power lies in concentrating on the essential' (Gerhard Sanin). The same philosophy is also expressed in the redesign of the winery buildings: what has grown historically is wrapped in an appropriate, modern dress. It is above all in the small details that are rather inconspicuous at first glance that one can see that Erste + Neue is serious about its new concept: The beautiful old box windows in the new tasting room have been fitted with modern, energy-saving double-glazed windows; the handrail on the stairs to the Puntay cellar has been modelled from pumping hoses that are no longer used, and the access to said cellar now leads past 50-year-old wooden barrels - still in use. The existing was integrated into the new in a sensible and tasteful way. A lot has changed, but ultimately not that much at Erste + Neue. The ex-farm prices range from 4.60 to 21.90 euros.
Direct sales: Monday - Friday: 9 a.m. - 6 p.m., Saturday: 9 a.m. - 12 a.m.;
Kellereistraße 5 -10 Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 963 122230
info@erste-neue.it
www.erste-neue.it
The wines of Ersten + Neue in the Wein-Plus guide:
www.wein-plus.de/italien/Erste%2B%2B%2BNeue_51617.html
Peter Sölva & Söhne: "Handwriting of the soil..."
Stephan Sölva (right) and his cellar master Christian Bellutti (Source: Peter Sölva & Söhne) |
Direct sales in the in-house vinotheque: Monday to Saturday 9.00 to 13.00 and from 14.00 to 19.00;
Goldgasse 35, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 964650
info@soelva.com
www.soelva.com
The wines of the Peter Sölva & Söhne winery in the Wein-Plus guide:
www.wein-plus.de/italien/Peter%2BS%C3%B6lva%2B%26%2BS%C3%B6hne_52657.html
Ritterhof: Address obligatory
"Kaltern, Weinstraße Nr. 1" is the address of the Ritterhof. It is a relatively young business that has existed in its current form since 1999 when the Roner family, who live in Tramin, bought the estate and the associated vineyards. For the current owners of the Ritterhof, the special address is "an incentive to play at the top with the quality of our wines," says director Ludwig Kaneppele.
The Ritterhof Winery (Source: Ritterhof) |
In addition to its own 7.5 hectares of vineyards, Ritterhof processes grapes from long-term contract winegrowers who cultivate a further 35 hectares. Most of the estate's own vineyards are located near the winery near Kaltern, while the suppliers' vineyards are mainly located in the so-called Unterland region near Tramin, but also on the Bolzano valley floor. The Ritterhof's range of wines is correspondingly diverse. It comprises 22 wines, 8 of which are in the top line called "Crescendo" and the remaining 14 in the so-called classic line. "With all wines, our aim is to produce fruity, fine, easy-drinking wines," says Ludwig Kaneppele. In the classic line, the focus is on varietal typicity. The Crescendo wines are naturally more demanding. They are supposed to be "more expressive and even more characterised by the respective origin", a claim that the Ritterhof wines definitely fulfil. A speciality is the Perlhofer, a red wine cuvée made from the varieties Vernatsch, Lagrein and Merlot, which is not produced in this way by any other winery in South Tyrol. A wine with warm, ripe fruit and a pleasantly spicy, earthy taste. The price level is very pleasing. The wines of the classic line cost between 5.70 and 8.50 euros. The Crescendo wines from 8.70 to 19 euros.
Wine tasting in the Vinothek:
Monday - Friday 8.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m.; Saturday 9.30 a.m. - 1.00 p.m. (in September and October only Saturday 9.30 a.m. - 5.00 p.m.).
Weinstraße 1, 39052 Kaltern
Tel. +39 0471 963298
info@ritterhof.it
www.ritterhof.it
The wines of the Ritterhof in the Wein-Plus guide:
www.wein-plus.de/italien/Ritterhof+-+Winery+and+Winery_52655.html
Castel Sallegg - Count Kuenburg: Popular nobility
Georg Graf von Kuenburg (Source: Castel Sallegg) |
Count Georg's wine preferences also reflect his closeness to the people. One of his favourite wines is the classic South Tyrolean wine for every day, the Vernatsch; at Castel Sallegg, a Kalterersee from the renowned Bischofsleiten vineyard, which is the sole property of the winery. But friends of exclusive products also get their money's worth at Castell Sallegg. As one of the few wineries - for a long time the only one - they produce Moscato Rosa, a dessert wine speciality reserved for a select clientele. The entire range comprises 25% white and 65% red wines in the price range from 7.00 to 27.00 euros. All wines are pressed from the estate's own grapes.
Direct sales in the in-house vinotheque (in the castle courtyard):
Winter: Monday - Thursday 8.00 - 12.00 + 13.30 - 17.30, Friday 8.00 - 12.00 + 13.30 - 16.30, Saturday/Sunday closed.
Easter to All Saints' Day: Monday - Friday 8.00 a.m. - 8.00 p.m., Saturday: 9.00 a.m. - 1.00 p.m.; Sunday closed.
Unterwinkel 15, I-39052 Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 963 132
info@castelsallegg.it
www.castelsallegg.it
The wines of Castel Sallegg in the Wein-Plus guide:
www.wein-plus.de/italien/Weingut%2BCastel%2BSallegg%2B-%2BGeorg%2BGraf%2BKuenburg_52685.html
Kettmeir: Healthy basis as a guarantee of quality
The Kettmeir winery is one of the oldest wineries in Kaltern. The beautifully situated winery was founded in 1919 by Josef Kettmeir and enjoyed a good reputation for a long time. However, in the 60s and 70s of the last century, they joined the general trend and almost exclusively produced large quantities of simple qualities. There was always a quality wine line, but on a negligible scale. In 1986, the Italian group Santa Margherita took over the majority shares and restructured the business from the ground up. Since then, only 7/10ths of the wines have been produced and the focus was initially on the production of fresh, fruity white wines, which the Italian market absorbed like a sponge. Especially the aromatic varieties of South Tyrolean origin, such as Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon and Müller-Thurgau, are extremely popular on the peninsula. Of course, the range also includes the classic South Tyrolean red wines.
The Kettmeir Winery (Source: Kettmeir) |
"The most important thing for us is that our wines stand out from other wine-growing regions and that you can recognise South Tyrol with its freshness, fruit and elegance in the glass," says Josef Romen, the winery's manager and oenologist. "With the white wines, this was not a problem from the beginning. With the reds, we have to distinguish ourselves through the wines that only South Tyrol has to offer in this quality, and these are above all Pinot Noir and Lagrein. And with all wines we have to make sure that the quality comes from the bottom. That means that the base line guarantees really good wine," is a sentence you rarely hear. Normally, the larger wineries tend to put their top line in the foreground, even if it only makes up a small part of the total production. Of course, Kettmeir also has this line, and it really does offer exceptionally good qualities (especially in the sparkling wines), but they want to score points here above all with the good price/performance ratio of all the wines.
The grapes come almost exclusively from contract winegrowers with whom intensive contact is maintained throughout the year, "so that only those qualities are brought into the cellar with which one can work reasonably," says Josef Romen. The Kettmeir winery's range currently consists of 18 wines, divided into three wine lines, as well as 3 sparkling wines and a grappa. The prices range from 5 to 17 euros.
Direct sales: Monday - Friday: 9.00 - 18.00, Saturday: 9.00 - 12.00
Kellereistraße 4, Kaltern
Tel: +39 0471 963 135
info@kettmeir.com
www.kettmeir.com
The wines of the Kettmeir Winery in the Wine-Plus Guide:
http://www.wein-plus.de/italien/Kettmeir_52654.html
Useful addresses: Wine Point Kaltern (wein.kaltern): A cooperative dedicated to quality-oriented viticulture. The aim is to cultivate wine-growing traditions and to preserve the importance of wine culture for social life. A free information magazine is published quarterly, which provides comprehensive information about viticulture in and around Kaltern. South Tyrolean Wine Route Association: organises events in the wine-growing area such as the Wine Route Weeks, the Night of the Cellars, Day of Eppan Wine and many others. Freie Weinbauern Südtirol: Association of currently 82 self-marketing South Tyrolean wineries. An absolute must for every South Tyrolean wine lover: the Vinea Tirolensis, at which almost all member wineries present their current wines. This year on 23 August at Maretsch Castle in Bolzano. Roter Hahn: Offers accommodation on farms in South Tyrol. Among them are also many rural wine producers. The quality criteria are very strict and are checked annually. |
Restaurant recommendations: As many good wine producers there are now in Kaltern, there are many good restaurants here. All the establishments that have joined wein.kaltern are recommended. If only because of their large selection of high-quality wines on tap at reasonable prices. As I was unfortunately unable to visit all of them, only eight of the establishments listed in alphabetical order are described in more detail. Ansitz Windegg Badl Genusshotel Castel Ringberg Christl in the hole Gasthof Weißes Rössl Goldener Stern Gretl on the lake House on the slope Kalterer See Farm Keller am Keil Parc Hotel am See Restaurant Ritterhof Schlosshotel Aehrental Seegarten Seehofkeller Lake Hotel Ambach Lake Pearl Siegi's food and drink Spuntloch Torgglkeller Weinhaus PUNKT A must in Kaltern: The Vinothek Battisti Margareth Battisti has been dedicated to the famous wines from South Tyrol, Piedmont, Tuscany, Friuli and other important wine-growing regions since 1957 (!). There is also a wide range of grappa, olive oil, aceto balsamico, dried and pickled specialities, homemade jams, alpine honey, pasta specialities and much more. Everything from the finest. Margareth Battisti lives completely for her business and values personal contact with customers above all else, which is why she doesn't find it necessary to set up a website. There is not even an e-mail address here. Where else can you find that these days? Other good restaurants (also outside the wine-growing areas) with hiking suggestions and cultural tips can be found in the recommendable book "Landgasthöfe in Südtirol" by Oswald Stimpfl; published by Folio-Verlag, Vienna-Bolzano(www.folioverlag.com). |