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In the south of France, the extensive wine-growing region of Languedoc-Roussillon stretches along the Mediterranean coast between Collioure and Nîmes. Its larger, north-eastern part, the Languedoc, has had a new wine classification since the beginning of 2011, which the professional association for Languedoc wines CIVL(Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc) brought into being. The foundation for this new three-tier hierarchy was laid back in 2007, when the Appellation Coteaux du Languedoc was renamed Languedoc AOC.

© CIVL

Grape varieties in Languedoc

The Languedoc AOC covers 38,000 hectares of vineyards spread over the three départements of Aude, Gard and Hérault and extending into the département of Pyrénées-Orientales. In 2009, the region's harvest was 1.25 million hectolitres, with an average yield of 33 hectolitres per hectare, one of the lowest in France. The Languedoc is known for mostly powerful and spicy red, rosé and white wines, many of which are made from autochthonous grape varieties. The most important red varieties are Carignan, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec (Cot) as well as Fer Servadou and Lledonner Pelut. The white varieties grown are mainly Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Mauzac, Piquepoul Blanc, Rolle (Vermentino), Macabeu, Bourboulenc as well as Muscat, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay .

The AOC wines can be produced from one or more grape varieties. In the latter case, the grapes are usually vinified separately according to variety and, if necessary, also according to origin, before being blended together to form a final cuvée by blending the wines. Germany was the largest buyer of Languedoc wines in 2010, accounting for 19 percent of sales volume and 15 percent of turnover.

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

Soil and climate conditions in the AOCs.

#GLOSSAR:,Cabardès,Blanquette de Limoux,Clairette du Languedoc,Corbières,Corbières-Boutenac,Crémant de Limoux,Faugères,Limoux,Malepère,Minervois,Minervois la Livinière,Muscat de Frontignan,Muscat de Lunel,Muscat de Mireval,Muscat de Saint-Jean de Minervois,Saint-Chinian,Saint-Chinian Berlou,Saint-Chinian Roquebrun#In addition to the overarching "super-appellation" Languedoc AOC, the region comprises 18 other individual AOCs (see box on the right): eleven for still wines, four for sweet wines and three for sparkling wines. In addition, the enclaves of Fitou and Clairette de Bellegarde are part of the region. With its numerous appellations, the Languedoc has a great diversity of terroirs, because the climate and soil conditions harbour considerable differences between the barren foothills of the Pyrenees and the Massif Central and the plains and gentle slopes on the Mediterranean coast. In the southern Languedoc, a humid sea breeze blows, which one sometimes thinks is reflected in the wines. The mountainous hinterland is characterised by flower and herb meadows (the garrigue), which give the grapes, which grow here on calcareous soils, a special flavour. In addition to limestone, depending on the appellation, the soils of the Languedoc contain pebbles, sandstone and marl, clay and slate, as well as sand and molasse.

As the Languedoc is one of the southernmost regions in the whole of France, the climate here is mainly Mediterranean: spring and autumn are temperate, summer is very warm and dry, winter mild with temperatures that rarely drop below freezing. Rainfall is very low, and the tramontane, a strong, cold, dry downdraft wind that blows mostly from the northwest, dries the vines, protecting them from disease. In the far west of the Languedoc, especially in the Cabardès and Malepère AOCs, the clash of Atlantic and Mediterranean climates provides a little more humidity, but still plenty of warmth as well.

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

On the way to quality

Viticulture has been known in the Languedoc since Greek and Roman times; its beginnings date back to the 5th century BC. The wine industry was given a major boost by the construction of the Canal du Midi between Toulouse and the Mediterranean in the mid-17th century and by the development of the railway at the end of the 19th century. After the invasion of phylloxera from 1868 and an economic crisis at the beginning of the 20th century, the year 1910 brought a new beginning when measures were enacted to ensure wine quality and protect against overproduction and fraud. Nevertheless, the Languedoc wine region still had a rather poor reputation until the end of the 1970s.

From 1975 onwards, the individual terroirs in the Languedoc were studied and characterised in more detail, and research was also carried out into the care of the vines, yield limitation and wine production. This made it possible to identify the most suitable vines for each soil type (sandstone, slate, limestone), taking into account factors such as water balance or root morphology. Since then, vineyards have been cleared on a large scale, the cultivation of traditional grape varieties (e.g. Cinsault, Clairette, Bourboulenc) has been optimised and typical Mediterranean grape varieties (e.g. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre) have been cultivated.

The professional association CIVL, founded in 1994, has developed a quality strategy that structures the wines of the Languedoc appellations (and thus terroirs) "with the main aim of providing the consumer with a better overview", as it says on the association's website. A first important milestone of this strategy was the introduction of the regional appellation Languedoc AOC in 2007, which replaced the appellation Coteaux du Languedoc valid until then. The CIVL sees this step as a prerequisite for "the qualitative reorganisation of the other appellations in order to [...] ensure better labelling for the consumer".

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

New three-tier hierarchy

Building on the Languedoc AOC as a "reference base", the CIVL drew up a new classification for the region's wines, which was approved in 2010 and came into force in 2011. According to the association, this new, pyramid-shaped hierarchy is intended to further enhance the appellations and increase the export of the wines. The three quality levels for Languedoc wines according to the new system are in ascending order: Languedoc AOC, Grands Vins du Languedoc, Grands Crus du Languedoc.

The three categories are based on both qualitative and economic criteria, such as origin (authorised AOCs), yield limitation, wine style, minimum selling price and distribution channel. In addition, a wine must meet certain characteristics and - above the Languedoc AOC - go through a set admission procedure to be classified in the corresponding category. "Currently, the pricing of Languedoc wines does not make sense," explains CIVL President Frédéric Jeanjean. "Languedoc AOC wines are supposed to be the base of the pyramid, but they are more expensive than appellations like Corbières and Minervois, which are theoretically the middle tier." Therefore, he said, a restructuring of the offer is necessary.

© CIVL

The categories of the quality pyramid

The first quality level Languedoc AOC comprises about 30 per cent of the region's wine production. It stands for easily accessible wines that are intended for immediate consumption and should have a high recognition factor. The CIVL defines the category's task as "to build a bridge between the concept of grape varieties representing country wines and the typical characteristics of the terroirs as the raison d'être of the AOC." The main grape varieties for red and rosé wines of the Languedoc AOC are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan, and for white wines Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Viognier, Piquepoul Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Rolle and Ugni Blanc. Maximum yields of 50 hl/ha for red and rosé wines and 60 hl/ha for white wines are permitted. Distribution takes place at least through food retailers (LEH) at a retail price of not less than three euros per bottle. According to the CIVL, the economic goals of the Languedoc AOC are a more stable price basis for wine producers and traders, for producers a better profitability of their work and in the medium term the marketing of 80 to 100 million bottles per year worldwide.

The second quality level, Grands Vins du Languedoc, accounts for about 60 percent of the wine produced in the region. These are supposed to be structured and aromatic growths that are typical of their terroir and may come from 22 defined AOCs. These are in detail: Cabardès, Clairette du Languedoc, Corbières, Faugères, Limoux rouge, Malepère, Minervois and Saint-Chinian; in addition, there are the Limoux sparkling wines and the natural sweet wines of the Muscat AOCs. In addition, part of the former Coteaux du Languedoc appellation is permitted, namely the cru sites Cabrières, La Méjanelle, Le Quatourze, Montpeyroux, Picpoul de Pinet, Saint-Christol, Saint-Drézery, Saint-Georges d'Orques and Sommières. The maximum yield is 48 to 50 hl/ha. The wines are distributed via food retailers and specialised trade at a retail price of at least four euros per bottle. Still wines in the Grands Vins du Languedoc category can be downgraded to the Languedoc AOC category.

At the top of the pyramid, as the third quality level, are the Grands Crus du Languedoc, which account for about ten percent of the region's wine production. These terroir wines, which are as expressive as possible, have - according to the specification - rarity value and bear the signature of the producer. The winegrowers must commit in writing to fulfilling specific criteria within two years: White wines must be aged for at least six months, red wines for at least twelve months, and after bottling, which must take place in the production area, a sensory test is mandatory. At least 70 per cent of the production must be sold directly from the winery; the bottle price ex cellar may not be less than five euros. The AOCs Corbières-Boutenac, Grés de Montpellier, Limoux blanc, Minervois La Livinière, Saint-Chinian Berlou and Saint-Chinian Roquebrun as well as the cru sites La Clape, Pèzenas, Pic Saint Loup and Terrasses du Larzac are eligible for this category. The maximum yields are 45 hl/ha for red wines and 50 hl/ha for white wines. The distribution channels foreseen are specialised trade and gastronomy, the end consumer price must be at least between seven and ten euros per bottle.

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

Winegrowers can decide for themselves

Producers can decide for themselves in which of the three categories a wine is classified, provided that the region of origin of the wine in question is recognised by the self-administration of the appellation for the corresponding category. The self-government (ODG - Organisme de Défense et de Gestion) ensures that the specifications for wine production in its area are complied with and is also responsible for product controls. The Grands Vins du Languedoc and Grands Crus du Languedoc categories must also meet specific technical and economic requirements, such as yield in the vineyard, production volume, bottling location, number of producers or retail price.

The CIVL is aware that the introduction and implementation of the quality pyramid entails a considerable effort for the winegrowers. "It requires a significant regional economic effort and represents a new challenge for Languedoc AOC businesses and producers," the association says on its website. However, it is convinced that the new, "simpler and easier to understand" structure will significantly boost the marketing of Languedoc wines and thus increase international sales. In this context, the Grands Crus du Languedoc are to be marketed with a special focus in order to pull the quality levels below them along. "This classification will shape the future of Languedoc for the next 15 years," predicts CIVL President Jeanjean.

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

Support from ODGs and wineries

The AOC self-governments also see the new classification positively. "This classification makes sense. It positions our terroirs in an intelligent way and helps consumers to understand them," judges Xavier de Volontat, president of the ODG Corbières. Jean-Benoît Cavalier, president of the ODG Languedoc AOC, also emphasises the benefits of the pyramid: "The new structure will help consumers to distinguish between the varietal wines Vins du Pays d'Oc IGP and the terroir-oriented Languedoc AOC wines."

Likewise, many well-known wine producers welcome the innovations. "With this project, everything is being prepared for the term Languedoc to return to the consumers' consciousness", says Christophe Palmowski, marketing director at Vignerons Catalans, with regard to the positioning of the Languedoc AOC. Winemaker Gérard Bertrand underlines the differentiation within the new system: "Creating a hierarchy of Languedoc appellations is an absolute must. We need to highlight every single part in our offer."

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

High-quality wines outside the appellations too

But not all winegrowers can, are allowed or want to make use of the new classification. Only certain grape varieties are permitted for the AOCs and their quantity ratio in an assemblage is often regulated. Wines that do not meet these requirements may not be marketed under the corresponding AOC designation, which in turn is decisive for classification in the quality pyramid.

One example is "La Diva" from the Mas des Dames winery in Murviel-lès-Béziers. In addition to 50 percent Syrah and 35 percent Grenache, the cuvée also contains 15 percent Alicante from very old vines. Since Alicante does not appear in the permitted grape variety list of the Languedoc AOC, "La Diva", although a top product of Mas des Dames, is only classified as a country wine, as Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel. For similar reasons, the renowned Mas de Daumas Gassac winery, which is considered the "Château Lafite du Languedoc", markets its growths as Vin de Pays de l'Hérault - but certainly plays with terms like grand cru and grand vin on its website.

In this respect, it is possible to produce high-quality wines outside the appellations and the quality categories created by the CIVL. According to the winegrowers' association Vinifilles, many producers do not even claim the grands crus category, but also produce excellent wines as Languedoc AOC. Vinifilles member Lidewij van Wilgen from Mas des Dames also complains about a certain standardisation that goes along with the new regulations. The winemaker reports that the CIVL pays premiums for the grubbing up of old vineyards on which new plants are then planted with grape varieties authorised within the new system.

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

Criticism from winegrowers

"In the meantime, there are hundreds of examples, especially among creative and quality-oriented winegrowers throughout France, that a salvation outside the appellations also exists. Many of these wines have long been classified as great wines by wine lovers among consumers," confirms winemaker Iris Rutz-Rudel from Domaine Lisson. Her farm in Olargues is not affiliated with any appellation. "I have marketed my wines as table wines since the foundation of our small vineyard, as the grape varieties did not correspond to the nearest AOC Saint-Chinian," explains Rutz-Rudel. With a maximum of 15 hl/ha, the yield of her wines is even significantly below the specifications for the Grands Crus du Languedoc category.

The winemaker does not see herself affected by the new classification of Languedoc wines, but she exchanges views with other winemakers in the region and has a clear position: "Like many of my colleagues, I don't believe that the new tier system will bring any advantages, because already the sprawling AOC system tends to confuse most consumers in France and even more so abroad." However, "interesting discussions have broken out" in the media and wine forums about whether the concept of grands crus is associated with Languedoc at all. "Of course, the result is always that great wines from particularly outstanding vintners in good sites - and there are many of them in the Languedoc, which is one of the most geologically and climatically diverse areas of France - have been around for a long time and will become more and more common. However, only a few winegrowers are convinced that this change of name, following the Bordeaux and Burgundy model, makes sense," says Rutz-Rudel.

She considers the "schematic price classification and the lax other criteria that do not bring any qualitative improvement to the already existing AOC system" to be particular weaknesses. The specification of price classes for the individual quality levels of the pyramid, which is particularly important to the CIVL, is viewed critically by Rutz-Rudel, because this would "probably discredit the whole thing again as a ridiculous marketing attempt for supermarkets. Grands Crus for ten euros - that sounds a lot like 'Bordeaux for the poor'. We have been selling our table wine in the price range of 20 to 25 euros per bottle for years, which is by no means an exception." In the meantime, the wines are declared as Vin de France in accordance with the regulation for table wines that has been in force since 2009.

© CIVL / Céline & Gilles Deschamps

Discussion about Grands Crus

Winemaker Ryan O'Connell from the Domaine O'Vineyards in Villemoustaussou and British wine critic Jancis Robinson are also involved in the discussion about the Grands Crus in the Languedoc. O'Connell also sees deficiencies in the new system, which apparently tries to limit the production volume of quality wine via sales, "although that should actually be a function of yield and the size of the vineyards." He produces Cabardès AOC wines, among others, and perceives the CIVL mainly as an institution that collects fees from him but does not even invite him to its general meeting.

O'Connell emphatically affirms that the Languedoc has grands crus: "We deserve grands crus just as much as Bordeaux, if not more." However, he questions the extent to which the new concept is contemporary: "While large parts of the world complain about the complexity, arbitrariness and obsolescence of the grand cru system in other regions of France, we are establishing a long-term plan to integrate it into our wine sales. We are 200 years too late." But O'Connell also recognises benefits of the CIVL initiative: "We can seriously raise our self-esteem in the region. The Languedoc is great. And we have Grands Crus!" Jancis Robinson criticises that the pyramid is an "artificial" and "theoretical" construct, and that the appellations and sites approved for the Grands Crus du Languedoc category were chosen arbitrarily. She accuses the CIVL of seeking price control for wines in the three levels of the hierarchy.

CIVL President Frédéric Jeanjean leaves no doubt that the new quality system is intended to make viticulture in the Languedoc more profitable. It is clearly about economic dimensions, marketing and profitability. To what extent the classification will fulfil this claim and, apart from that, further promote the quality of the wines, remains to be seen. At the end of June 2011, a first assessment will be made of the development of the AOC Languedoc.

To the German-language website of the CIVL

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