After the death of Tibor Gál, Alexander von Essen is pursuing his flagship project Capaia with even more commitment. But other South African winemakers have also realised that the country's top wines need to further raise their profile.
The Baron is not lacking in self-confidence. "I want to make a world-class wine," laughs Alexander von Essen. Six years ago, the eloquent former car salesman, later wine merchant, macadamia nut farmer and South Africa lover was simply fed up with the merely good and very good wines of his second home.
On the way from Cape Town airport to the city centre, von Essen points to a hill on the horizon. "I bought the whole hill." Where once only grass and grain grew, there are now newly planted sauvignon blanc, cabernet and petit verdure vines. Capaia is the name of this adventure on the edge of the Tygerberg district, where the cool influence of the sea can still be felt. A flashing new winery, handmade wooden fermenters from posh French tonnelier Taransaud and batteries of new French barriques are evidence of huge investment and big ambitions. "The small proportion of Petit Verdot is the secret," explains Alexander von Essen. And of course the yield reduction, the gentle treatment of the mash, the gentle punching down of the marc. Tibor Gál, Hungarian winemaking legend and previously responsible for winemaking at the Tuscan showpiece winery Ornellaia, already showed with the 2003 what could be made from the blood-young vines. Not yet a world-class wine, certainly, but already an indication of what Capaia could become in a few years. When Gál was killed in a car accident in South Africa a few weeks ago, the most important fundamental decisions had already been made, the assistants had been trained and the grapes for the 2005 vintage had been harvested.
In the face of foreign millions and flying Winemaker influences, the old Boers are having a hard time. Classics like Meerlust, formerly one of the leading wineries, suddenly find themselves in the broad midfield. The quality of stars like Veenwouden, once considered insider tips, is stagnating. Interchangeable wines at a boringly high level might not be enough in the long run to make a name for themselves on the world market, in view of the rising margins and the almost unbeatable competition from the Australians. Competition threatens South Africa's traditional estates, however, not only from financially strong projects like Capaia, but also from garage vintners who cause a stir with a few thousand or even only a hundred cases. "Unfortunately, we don't have an importer in Germany yet," regrets Penny Verburg of the miniature producer Luddite. No drama, because the few bottles produced of the juicy, spicy Shiraz, to which the more than 15 percent alcohol does not give a negative impression, have recently become one of the collectors' insider tips. Awarded four and a half stars by the South African wine guide Platter, they are sold almost exclusively to the upscale gastronomy in Stellenbosch or Paarl as well as to a handful of connoisseurs.
Jan Coetzee produces larger quantities of wine, exports a lot and has realised that businesses like the Vriesenhof have to reinvent themselves in order not to go under in the shark tank of the world wine market. His wines are now marketed under the name Paradyskloof. The ex-Rugby star likes to distinguish himself with the almost filigree Pinotage-dominated Cuvée Enthopio: unmistakable, not overloaded with wood. Never before has Pinot Noir been so seductive and complex as in the 2003 vintage. "This grape variety is my passion," smiles Coetzee. One would not have expected such a soft spot for elegant wine from the beefy winemaker with the steel-grey eyes and the hobby of springbok hunting