A relaxed day starts with a good breakfast. And you can have it in a wine bar with jazzy beats. Bar Sonnenberg is probably the only real wine bar in Galicia where you can also get a proper breakfast. Sonnenberg? That's right. The grandfather of restaurateur Alfredo used to live and work in Switzerland next to the peak of the same name, which has kept its place in the family history with the bar. Alfredo and his wife Vanesa are passionate about running the Sonnenberg and are always on the lookout for new wine discoveries, which are served by the glass or bottle. In their spare time, the two wine enthusiasts take part in blind tasting competitions, which they sometimes even win, as confirmed by certificates in the bar. So you can really talk shop here if you recognise yourself as a wine fan. The wines change daily, there is no menu. But beware: work-life balance is very important here: Except on Fridays, the Sonnenberg closes its doors at 6 pm. But you can stop in here in the afternoon when most other wine bars are taking their siesta.

Fancy a stroll through the local market in the late morning? Good decision, because here you can marvel at and buy regional delicacies fresher than anywhere else at the many small stalls. My tip: buy whatever catches your fancy and head for the market wine bar "A Viñoteca do Mercado". Here you can enjoy your market haul with a good glass of wine while standing at the high tables. I think it's a great concept! This small bar tienda (bar with adjoining shop) probably offers the largest selection of Galician wines in Santiago with over 200 references, ten to 15 of which can be ordered by the glass depending on the week. All other bottles can be opened and enjoyed on the spot for a fair corkage fee of five euros. Jacobo, the friendly owner of "A Viñoteca do Mercado", will be happy to advise you on your selection.

Well-fuelled, we set off to explore the city, which really does have a lot of encanto, as they say in Spain. Want to enjoy a glass of wine before your afternoon siesta? Then pop into the "Viñoteca Ventosela". This wine bar is small and inconspicuous, but has it all: there are around 30 mainly Galician wines on the menu, which are served by the glass. However, there are many more bottles waiting in the large wine fridge, each of which can be tapped with Coravin for a glass. Super! The landlady reveals that when white wine is ordered, the choice is now usually Godello. Anyone who orders Albariño today is usually not from here. Whether full-bodied Godello, sparkling Albariño, or fruity Ribeiro blend: the variety of styles of Galician white wines is great fun here. The "Viñoteca Ventosela" serves a small selection of typical regional tapas. Fits!

The small wine bar "Nómade" is located in the Rúa do Franco, the liveliest promenade in the old town. And yet only a few tourists get lost here, as co-owner Fran tells me. Most of the guests are from Santiago and come here regularly. A few tables, a hip but relaxed and informal atmosphere, a mixed crowd. You immediately feel at home. A constantly changing range of around 90 wines awaits palates eager to discover them. The concept: one third Galicia, one third Spain, one third international wines. All wines can be ordered by the glass, all bottles are labelled with a price and the glass is sold for a fifth of the price. Very simple. The range is sophisticated, heavy on natural wines, but colourful enough to make all wine fans happy. Each glass comes with a free tapa. If you're more hungry, you can choose between regional delicacies, all fresh from the market.

Tavern is the perfect name, as the dim light creates a relaxed, private atmosphere in the evening. The style of this small wine bar is neither modern nor traditional, neither simple nor chic. But the search for categories fades into the background when the delicious tapas are served. There are also some vegetarian options. You can choose from around eight wines by the glass or order one of the 120 or so different bottled wines. The labels range from well-known to unknown names. Godello and Ribeiro wines have been going particularly well recently, reports the young owner, who talks about the subject in a pleasantly unpretentious manner while current pop music plays in the background—the only snag from the point of view of a progressive cultural nostalgic. Nevertheless, I left "Bar Viño – A Taberna" very satisfied.

Speaking of unpretentious: at "A que vino", you've probably never heard of the term "wine snob". At first glance, this restaurant outside the historic centre looks like a typical Spanish cafeteria. At second glance, the impression is confirmed: individuals sit at the bar sipping their caña (small draught beer) while reading the newspaper, people at the table complain loudly about work and the eternally dissatisfied boss over cola and chips... and then the first irritations follow. In between, the occasional wine glass sparkles, swirled devoutly by whispering people. A glance at the bar brings certainty: information about the 40 or so Spanish and international wines served by the glass is displayed on large blackboards. In total, this unusual wine bar stocks around 80 different bottles. An exciting place: "A que vino" is a normal neighbourhood pub with perhaps the most un-winey atmosphere I have ever come across in a wine bar—but one that is obviously run by wine enthusiasts. And the guests, whether wine freaks or not, come in droves.

No matter who you ask: everyone loves "Xénese". This wine bar specialises in artisanal, natural wines from small producers, which they source—how practical—directly from their own import and distribution company "Viños Vivos", which also runs a well-stocked wine shop next door. The team led by the well-known sommelier Marta Costas, Diego Vecino, and Cesar Ares has put together a well-organised wine list based on two pillars: a handful of wines that are changed every month, as well as wines that change every week, each serving a specific theme or coming from a particular vineyard. In addition, there are the house wines, which are not the cheap second choice here, but are produced by the Xénese team themselves in the Ribeira Sacra. This has a special charm. There is also fine cold cuisine.

Restaurante Gaio is always worth a visit. With its open-plan kitchen, stylishly furnished dining room and informal ambience, the cuisine here is Galician—but with Peruvian and Asian accents. The wine list is extensive and Galicia-orientated. If I had to criticise anything, it would be that there are only four wines by the glass.

The owner of the aforementioned wine bar "Ventosela" also owns the "Viñoteca O Tixola" just a few metres away, which is a down-to-earth Galician restaurant. The difference to other restaurants: the very large selection of wines—even larger than in the bar—and the Coravin bar, so that every label can be ordered by the glass.

The "Indómito", perhaps the best restaurant in Santiago, is more upmarket. Here you can enjoy innovative market cuisine in a stylish, modern setting, with the menu being dynamically tailored to the individual guest. If you prefer, you can also order from the classic menu. The wine list includes around 70 wines, eight of which are served by the glass.

The "oTesTo" fits in perfectly here: behind the old façades lies a modern, upscale cuisine that focuses primarily on fish and seafood. In a quiet, elegant atmosphere, you can enjoy a very good selection of wines with your meal: ten to 15 wines by the glass, with a total of around 90 items on the menu. The large proportion of sparkling wines is worth mentioning, with champagne dominating here.

Are you looking for traditional flair and don't value service staff with ironed, neatly tied aprons? Then take a look at the "Restaurante Maria Castaña": a typical Galician bar with a rustic ambience and, yes, sometimes service. But the food is good and there is a very large selection of mostly classic wines by the glass from all Galician wine-growing regions to choose from.