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Wegelin 2012 Whenever I have a white wine in my glass, I realise how much we wine drinkers rely on our sensory memory. I'm not a white wine drinker, so I largely lack what you might call an "inner archive": Possibilities of comparison, differences, fine nuances of expression, my own standards. Somehow the judgement - perhaps even the enjoyment - gets stuck in the momentum, like this: appeals to me, I like it, I can enjoy it - or not. I am aware that most occasional wine drinkers feel this way. What one knows and has once found to be good is ultimately one's own (usually unconscious) yardstick. That's how I feel about the Weisse.

The Bündner Herrschaft - this should no longer be a secret, even abroad - is a small stronghold of Pinot Noir. Malans is one of the four municipalities of the Bündner Herrschaft, the northernmost, where the road branches off to the health resorts of Klosters and Davos. White wines are also produced in the Bündner Herrschaft, mainly Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and various grape varieties (but in small quantities). By far the largest share, however, is made up of Pinot Noir, for which the Herrschaft is famous.Malans

Peter Wegelin's winery, the farm is called Scadenagut, is - so far - not one of the most resounding names, but his wines are among the best. Especially the Pinots, which initially have a somewhat wild note, but "calm down" wonderfully. Now, for the first time, I have Wegelin's Weissburgunder in my glass: wonderful notes of quince, hazelnut and melon, not sweet, but rather deeply aromatic and - probably a result of the good Pinot site and the chalky soil - with good fresh acidity.

Now comes the comparison: is it one of the best Pinot Blancs in the dominion? Where does it stand - in terms of quality - in a worldwide comparison? Can it compete with the Alsatians, the Austrians or even the Burgundians? I don't know (see above). But is this so important? I only know that it is a very, very good wine. (Price approx. 22 CHF) On the homepage of the estate the note: "unfortunately sold out", which I can well understand.

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