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As soon as my German wine friends' eyes glisten strangely, their nostrils quiver and their palms become slightly sweaty, it's about German Riesling. Then I also know that now - as a Swiss - I have to keep quiet, because the subject of Riesling lies in the realm of H and H is downright mined. No, of course HH does not mean Hamburg, but just an area where there is only "haue" and "Häme".
Experts among themselves. Left: Chief editor of Vinum Switzerland% Barbara Meier-Dittus% Right: Wine book author Ernst Meier. In the glass Riesling-Unplugged 2007% Tesch Winery.
If I nevertheless dare to report on an experience of my own, it is only because it concerns an "experiment", the all-important question: "What does the wine lover drink with sushi?". My problem starts with these "in" places that are suddenly springing up like mushrooms. You sit down to eat at a kind of bar, lined up like chickens on a stick, and in the best case you have an eagerly working chef opposite you, but mostly just bowls of delicacies passing by on an assembly line. And poof - you can help yourself! What I initially find funny as a gag quickly turns into a horror for me: I can't for the life of me reconcile an assembly line and food. Soon, instead of appetisers, images from Charles Chaplin's satire "Modern Times" (1936) pass me by: they want to make me aware that "modern times" have also taken hold of our eating habits.
At the sushi bar - the chef prepares the sushi in front of the guests.
Well, this "experiment" was not about the westernised food culture that has been naturalised by Japan, but about wine, or more precisely: Riesling. But let's take it one step at a time. The invitation came from the "German Wine Institute" - and not just anywhere in Germany, no, near me, in Zurich. Served are "dry, off-dry and sweet Rieslings from various German wine-growing regions", accompanied by the request: "afterwards, tell us which combinations of Riesling & Gyoza, Tempura or Uramaki you liked best".
The task alone is a mystery to me. What is gyoza? A filled dumpling, of course, I am instructed. And what is tempura? In the language of the mediator of culinary delights, it means something like: "shrimps wrapped in glass noodles and sesame tempura, steamed dumplings filled with pork, ginger, leek and Chinese cabbage, crayfish in dough...". I admit, this menu alone is quite exciting. But they don't serve beer or green tea with it, no, German Riesling.
Sushi has many forms and very different flavours
While my neighbour to the left has a relatively quick and clear opinion on everything: "wine no. 5 goes with the prawns, wine no. 3 with salmon, of course, and nothing at all goes with the seaweed salad", I poke around a bit helplessly in the appetisers, sipping from my glass and still have no justifiable opinion at all. By the second round - there are four of them - I give up combining and concentrate first on eating, then on drinking. One after the other. It's no surprise that I feel a bit better, despite the minefield (see above!). Actually, my "odyssey" through the realm of Riesling and sushi begins with the aperitif. Weingut Tresch, Riesling-Unplugged 2007, Kabinett dry. The far more sophisticated Riesling experts in our Swiss group turn up their noses: "takes getting used to," is the friendliest comment I can pick up.
Riesling in a glass - how does this go with sushi?
But I like the wine extraordinarily. Somehow an honest wine, no hidden, false sweetness, clear acidity, young, fresh, "dry as dust", I hear from the round. Then, for the first round of sushi, a contrast emerges for me, almost a shock: Riesling sparkling wine. I have a hard time with it, probably because sparkling wine has hardly ever accompanied my food. However, the pronounced sweetness and the fresh tingling have something to them as a "famuli" of the spicy fillings in the pastry bags. But now things really get going: Willi Haag, Braunberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2007 and Dubacher Weinbaugenossenschaft, Durbacher Plauelrain Klingelberger Riesling Kabinett trocken 2007. The confusion increases: the Braunberger Juffer goes well with salmon, I note, the Klingelberger with nothing at all. But I actually think the Klingelberger is better. But let's leave that alone.
Winery of Peter Jakob Kühn in Oestrich% Rheingau
The next round is already coming up: Georg Breuer, Terra Montosa 2007, Carl Loewen, Thörichter Ritsch 2005, Van Volxem, Schiefer Riesling 2008. I was at Van Volxem with my wine friends two years ago. Now that the wine is set up, and only then with Japanese dishes, it tastes so very different. Is it just a different vintage, or is it the special circumstances here in the sushi bar? There is not enough time to eat, drink, listen to the explanations and write down our own thoughts at the same time. The last round is already about to begin: Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, Riesling Kabinett 2007. Wait, I've been there before - it's been a while. Back then, I tasted the wines of the winery. What do I remember, what has remained? I only remember the lively discussion about the screw cap.
Wine tasting at the Van Volxem% Wiltingen% Mosel winery
Then the next wine: Markus Molitor, Alte Reben 2005 and finally Vollenweider, Mosel, Wolfer Goldgrube 2007. Why did I like this "Goldgrube" the best of all? A guilty conscience plagues me, Vollenweider is a Swiss who moved to the Mosel about 10 years ago. So chauvinism after all? I dare not say anything - H and H lies as a wide field before me. The evening is nevertheless enjoyable, the appetisers with their often strange aromas have tasted good to me, the encounter with the Riesling is exciting. I go home exhilarated - almost without notes. A beautiful evening! First note: Two weeks later, when I served my guests a wild Alaskan salmon, I took an almost forgotten bottle of Riesling from Kühn out of the cellar, feinherb, I think they call it, what came out of the bottle. The group was very enthusiastic. Second note: At the last auction, no one wanted to bid for lot 1267. Franz Künstler, Hochheimer Hölle 1997, 8 bottles of Riesling Spätlese, semi-dry. My hand jumped up without much deliberation. 100 francs (gross 126 CHF) or about 10 euros a bottle. Now, eight Rieslings are waiting for the next salmon, some sushi appetisers or simply to reach for a good bottle of Riesling. Third note: all the wines served are also on sale in Switzerland.

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