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65 vintages of the famous Bordelais estate were tasted over two consecutive days. Some surprising bottles were there. Baroness Philippine de Rotschild clearly enjoyed discussing her wine with the wine experts present.

What moves a person like Manfred Wagner from Zurich to put together such a unique series of Mouton Rothschild vintages and taste them with friends? Well, certainly an enormous love of wine, but there must also be a fair amount of patience involved, as it takes several years to get all the bottles together. A 1945 is probably easier to obtain than a 1942. Manfred Wagner is no stranger to the scene, however, as this was already his 10th century tasting.

The armada of Mouton Rothschild% ready to attack...

Wines or bottles

Michael Broadbent MW once said: "With mature wines there are no bad or good vintages, only bad or good bottles". How right he was. The older the wine, the greater the differences between the individual bottles. A whole lifetime on the road has a tiring effect, to the point of decaying a wine. Always in the same place under optimal conditions, experience shows, such bottles are always better. You can taste this most clearly in wines from great years - Why? The greater the potential of a wine, the more can be broken. If the wine comes from a miserable year, there is not much substance left from the start. It is possible that not much more can be destroyed by incorrect storage. A prime example was a simple unknown Nuits-St-George 1915 some time ago - since its purchase by the owner at the time, it had always matured in the same cellar under optimal conditions. A 1947 Cheval Blanc/VdM tasted next to it, of the same origin, had to fight with all its might not to lose out. Both were stored under the same conditions.

One conclusion regarding old wines is that a rating should always be based on the tasted bottle. Only if you have tasted one and the same wine several times can you make a well-founded general statement.

The course of the event

The tasting began on Saturday, 10:00 a.m., with the first flight from 2005 to 1990. After a break, the second flight from 1989 to 1974. In the evening, a dinner with further wines such as an 1888 Ay-Todor-Yquem from the legendary Massandra collection. They wanted to "imitate" a d'Yquem - which didn't really succeed. It seemed more like a dry sherry, not quite faultless and very brittle. An 1894 Livadia-Tokay followed - the Essencia aroma was recognisable, with a very grapey sweetness. Like fresh grape must, rather one-dimensional. On Sunday 10:00 a.m. we continued with the vintages 1973 to 1958 and in the afternoon with 1957 to 1941. Of course, everyone was eager to taste the Trio Infernale from 1945 - 1947 - 1949. Tasting all three side by side was somewhat electrifying, even for Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. The illustrious round was filled with experts from all over Europe. Serena Suttcliffe MW and her husband David Peppercorn MW, Jean Hugel from the Alsace winery of the same name, J.P. Perrin from Beaucastel, Miguel Torres junior, Frederic Drouhin, Jürg Richter, the author and others. The time allotted to each wine was more than sufficient. Everyone was thus able to maintain their individual tasting pace without being under time pressure.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild - label from 1987

Interesting facts about Mouton Rothschild

Mouton is the English part of the widely ramified Rothschild dynasty, Lafite the French part. Both belong to the most famous wine estates worldwide. The fact that Baron Philippe de Rotschild achieved the upgrade from Deuxième to Première in 1973 and that, from 1945 onwards, the labels were designed every year by famous artists, is worth mentioning. They have always known how to market themselves, at least the "English" Rothschilds.

It is also interesting to note that until 1966 the vines were all very old and only from then on were they gradually cleared and replanted - the 1966 was disappointing, by the way.

The question of how the people in charge at Mouton Rothschild view the discussion about the closure of a wine bottle had to come, and came promptly. Director Hervé Berland cannot imagine with the best will in the world opening a Mouton with a screw cap. Serena Sutcliffe MW and her husband David Peppercorn immediately jumped to his side. A view worthy of discussion, if not out of touch with reality, at least according to the author.

One looks UP to Mouton.... sometimes far back...

On some older bottles, if you look closely, you can see the letters R.C. imprinted. Sometimes in black and sometimes in red. Reserve de Chateau is what these letters mean. Such marked bottles come from the reserve stocks of Mouton Rotschild, which the chateau puts into the archives from each vintage. Caution, there are supposed to be magnum bottles and larger formats especially from 1945 - 47 - 49, which are marked with R.C. and are faked.

Another very interesting and at the same time piquant story about the 1947. If you compare the great 47s from the Bordelais, they have certain lavish, full-bodied and port-like aromas in common. The Mouton is out of the ordinary, as it captivates with rather elegant, restrained finesse. The temperature during fermentation was very high at that time and the cellars did not cool enough in such hot years. Automatic temperature control, as is common today, was not known back then. By adding blocks of ice during fermentation, not only was the temperature lowered, but the must was also diluted. The result can be a leaner wine. Hasn't there been a heated and often unobjective discussion about this alleged New World practice in the trade press lately?

There is also Mouton Rothschild in Burgundy bottles, which in 1918 was bottled at least partly in this way. During the First World War, people were happy if they could find bottles to fill at all. Indeed, there are countless abnormalities in such troubled times. From the most diverse bottle shapes and colours, to very short corks, to small differences in labels. Also, the fairy tale that the great Bordelais chateaux never bottled large bottles in earlier times is definitely not true - even if some owners deny this when asked. In the cellars of Mouton Rothschild are two Imperiales from the 1870 Lafite Rothschild. An 1864 Magnum, also from Lafite Rothschild, or a Jeroboam 1945 Petrus (auctioned by Sothebys in 1995) are some proofs of this.

Trio Infernale

Personal conclusion

One finding of this tasting is that in weak years there were some wines that were clearly above the vintage level. 1980, 1984, 1993 or 1997 are to be mentioned here among the younger vintages. 1963, 1964, 1965 or 1948 among the older ones. In top years, however, there were also rather average wines such as 1995, 1990, 1989 or 1966. Undrinkable were, among others, 1974 - 1967 - 1962 - 1960 - 1954 - 1950 - 1946 - 1941.

Grandiose were 2005 - 2004 - 2003 - 2000 - 1996 - 1986 - 1985 - 1982 - 1955 - 1949 - 1948 - 1947. The 1945 disappointed at this tasting. I am convinced that this was not an optimal bottle. As I mentioned at the beginning, with older wines, the ratings should always be based on the tasted bottle first.

Mouton Rothschild is overrated. There are clearly too many weak or only mediocre vintages for a Premier Cru. Always compared with the general quality of the vintage itself and with what the competitors in this category have brought to the bottle. There is probably no other chateau in Bordeaux where marketing or image-building measures make up such a large part of the reputation. The labels created by world-famous artists are an important part of this.

One more thing about the wine celebrities present. It is just about acceptable to try to find the positive in the wines in the presence of the director of Mouton Rothschild and the Baroness. However, there are limits here too, but it should not go so far as to be embarrassing. With wines that have already passed away, one often speaks of the "breath of death" that surrounds the wine. If the breeze turns into a hurricane, you should not try to light a candle - that is not possible by any stretch of the imagination. Not only the English MW couple, but also some of the winegrowers from all over the world who were present, talked the wines up much more than they actually were. Especially as the Baroness gave the impression that she was quite capable of an honest word. She herself speaks things straightforwardly and without beating about the bush, as the director got to feel a few times. The remark of one of the guests that another Premier Cru of the same year was clearly better had not yet been fully expressed when the Baroness looked over at her director and said energetically, with an expectant expression: "Why haven't we made such a good wine?.

Tasting notes

2005: Thick dense nose - new world touch - insanely concentrated with every red & black berry imaginable, perfectly integrated toasty aromas, smoky, no signs of over ripeness but fully ripe grapes. On the palate oodles of the ripest mellow tannins - of the very highest quality, ripe acidity, distinct mineral notes, extremely extract-rich, dry yet extract-sweet style, huge structure with massive but balanced alcohol, immensely long & impressive finish. Drinks very well but 35 years & longer should not be a problem.

2004: Fully ripe black fruits, distinct ripe currant, wet slate, deep and lush - not unlike the 05, chocolate & some coffee beans in the background. Closed on the palate, slender looking, sandy tannins & distinct minerality, with air the Cabernet comes through clearly, long finish - carried somewhat by the sandy tannin. 20+ years - needs time.

2003: open ripe nose, hot aromatics, rum pot, clear cassis with tobacco, Amarena cherries, subtle caramel. On the palate rich acidity & tannin - slightly caramel, wonderfully open, silky style, flatterer, you can feel the vintage very well, long massive finish. 20 years but now already good to drink.

2002: clearly more restrained than 2003, some wood, some green nuts & cedar, touch of tr. herbs & nutmeg. Bone dry on the palate & initially lacks depth (comes with air), sparse with few fruit flavours, cedar again, ethereal, more of a racy & honest wine, not for fruit lovers, has character, lacks extract in the medium to long finish, giving it a slightly alcoholic impression. Carafe needed. 10 - 15 years.

2001: Very restrained with oriental aromas, pale in appearance, without depth. On the palate massive with noticeable alcohol, earthy, completely closed - drying tannins (creeping cork?), otherwise an old style Bdx, definitely taste again, long slightly bulky finish?

2000: Open almost massive nose, ripe black fruit, blackberries - currants - touch of elderberry, paired with liquorice & pepper, pencil, optimal balancing act between California & Bdx. On the front palate an insane sweetness that fades to the back, very high extract, dense friable tannin, lush but ripe acidity, classy balance between punch & tension/race, cassis, black high ripe cherries, ripe plums & some elderberry, all underpinned by fine minerality, punchy very long finish, great wine, 20+ years.

1999: Ripe with animal notes, mix of soy - lovage, slight horse notes still in the frame, wet leather, pencil. The palate exactly mirrors the nose, quality grainy tannin, nice balance, up to here the ripest wine, elegant & deep, has style, a finesse long ripe finish, 10 years.

1998: brute cork,

1997: discreet but wonderfully clear & pure nose, mineral, air brings blackberries - some cassis - graphite notes & depth, noble distinguished style. On the palate some overripeness tangible, massive with rum pot notes, ripe cassis, touch of leather, fine meshed tannin with ripe juicy acidity, some dry minerality, rather racy wine, has style, nice cherry finish, top 97s. 15 years.

1996: Dense compact still restrained nose, fully ripe grapes, friable macerated red fruits without smelling alcoholic, bitter chocolate, liquorice. On the palate full & massive, extremely high extract, perfect balance of massive fruit & elegance, oodles of minerality - perfect tannin - extract, monumental structure, chocolate, espresso, a gigantic wine, combines power & structure in almost perfect style, insanely long, reminiscent of 1986. 30+ years.

1995: Rather flat & one-dimensional, empty, inexpressive, alcoholic - creeping cork? On the palate ditto, rich tannin, relatively short, good wine but no more, lacks depth & complexity, very little fruit - alcoholic looking - taste again.


1994: Very discreet, filigree, somewhat pale fruit - that's the wine (no bottle fault). On the palate distinct acidity on which the wine "hangs", lacks depth & complexity, relatively little fruit - some separated herbs & red fruits, medium finish. 5 years

1993: Open & ripe nose, fine animal nuances, mint, fresh parsley, cherry stones with some tobacco spice, hot aromas, subtle mineral notes, all very elegant and noble. On the palate a racy sparse balance with enough extract, clear minerality, very fine-grained tannin, hot flavours like Amarena cherry & touch of caramel, some balsamic, slightly nutty & discreetly alcoholic finish, great surprise - highly interesting in larger formats. 10 years, possibly longer.

1992: Discreetly spicy, soy sauce, meat broth, toasty, with oregano in the background. Front palate very plump & soft, lacking balance - from mid palate the acidity, extract & alcohol stand side by side, drying tannins, all in all one of the better 1992s, medium finish, 5 years.

1991: Clear signs of maturity, withered leaves, figs, candied sugar, some red fruit, some depth. On the palate rich slightly aggressive tannin, hard acidity, hard structure, little fruit, alcoholic, short finish. Drinking.

1990: very discreet, rudiments of maturity, dusty nose, seems to have been topped. On the palate well balanced, fine, slender acidity, very sparse & closed, no change even when tasted later, lacks complexity, more than disappointing (nothing new with the 90 "Mutong" ), dry mineral long finish, I am not sure if the wine can ever bring more - rather not. For 1990 the absolutely weakest of the crus. 5-10 years.

1989: Cold smoke, flint, somehow a "burnt" bouquet, herbal components - similar to Riccola herbal sugar. Palate fresh acidity, sandy tannin structure, hot aromatics, a bit caramel, singed style, fruits soaked in alcohol, 7-10 years.

1988: Sparse nose, greenish notes like tea - unripe walnut - moss, Provence herbs, some forest floor. On the palate classic, elegant, velvety mineral carpet, wonderful tannins, fresh acidity, tobacco, cedar, still seems buttoned up, sparse style, slender slightly drying finish. If it takes off its straitjacket - 10 - 15 years, if not it might dry out in a few years.

1987: Cork - but behind it hides a very good wine, another 5-8 years.

1986: Deep dark colour close to the rim already shows the power visually, lots of red & black currants, blackberries, ripe plums, wild strawberries, truffles, coffee notes, Black Forest cake, everything present in quantities, opulent but not fat, depth & complexity, you almost sink into the nose. On the palate slimmer, although with enormous extract sweetness, rich & dense elegance - Porsche Turbo & no Bentley, elderflower, cassis, cedar, dr. mint, coffee again, touch of liquorice, at the moment only at the beginning of what it will still bring, clearly more potential than in 1982, giant with style & sometime to be mentioned in a row with 1945 - 47 - 49. I would like to have some of it in my cellar. 35+ years.

1985: Open & ripe Cabernet nose, filigree & elegant, tobacco can, some leather, fresh ethereal herbs in the background, nicely balanced. Wonderfully balanced on the palate with silky structure, a well-trained ballerina - feminine Mouton, lovely ripe cassis with black cherry, spicy, a fine Mouton in the very best sense, very long elegant finish, 8 - 10 years.

1984: First a huge stink of overripe fruit & vegetables which disappears after 15 min, then ripe notes, some wilted leaves & dates, touch earthy. On the palate what a surprise - an elegant wine living on balance, delicate, fine-boned, slightly dusty style, nice juiciness, plum, somewhat light but finesse finish, almost sensational for 1984, 5 years.

1983: Very open nose, dark porty aromas, chocolate cake, some cardamom & touch of cinnamon, ripe red fruited fruit, very complex & layered, "juicy looking". On the palate ripeness & superbly balanced, hot flavours, again the porty, very fine-grained tannin, a round acidity, on point, some cherry liqueur, alcohol discreetly noticeable, long finish dominated by bitter chocolate, 7-10 years.

1982: Plump full nose, clearly rum pot & red stewed fruit, elderflower, already ripe style, very deep & expansive, with air comes something volatile to it, also first very slight oxidation tones. On the palate, rough tannin, concise acidity, expansive structure, powerful & full, elderflowers & juice again, liquorice, high extract, touch of sherry, very dark chocolate, you can feel the hot vintage, multi-layered, very long, rich finish, should improve slightly in another 5-8 years & then hold its own - although the first ageing problems show themselves discreetly. Clearly further than 1986! 10+ years.

1981: Very restrained & sparse nose, some herbs & red fruits. On the palate light but very well balanced, silky, delicate, complex but not insanely deep, leather, some lovage, a little nutty, branches, moss, ballerina, fine slightly dry finish, for lovers of restrained wines. 5-10 years.

1980: Greenish, fresh herbs, slightly alcoholic, very discreet. Ripe & amazingly great wine on the palate, rustic style & yet with style, still some substance, medium good finish, for 1980 a sensational bottle, the lack of substance on the finish shows the vintage. 5 years.

1979: Very ripe nose, tr. branches, leaves, herbal, some depth, orange peel. On the palate hard acidity, rustic, aggressive tannin, raw & edgy, some cherry & tobacco, medium finish. typical of 1979. drinking.

1978: Open nose, graphite, fresh & tr. mountain herbs, some cardamom, subtle cassis & raspberry in the background. On the palate juicy structure, rich ripe tannin, fresh not spiky acidity, nutty, some vegetal notes, ripe & pickled red & black fruits, touch of Mon Chéri, a typical Mouton, long powerful finish. 5-8 years.

1977: Almost dead nose, very faintly some foliage, dusty. On the palate a bright light wine, good balance, but drinks quickly.

1976: Ripe cassis nose, some cherry cream, some depth, touch of cognac style, not very complex. On the palate totally different style - Medoc, rich grainy tannin (style & taste reminds me of Medoc), green walnut, nicely matured somewhat rustic wine, good drying finish. 5-8 years.

1975: Closed, some depth, black nose, some tar. On the palate rich almost still aggressive tannin, with fruit behind - probably doesn't come over tannin, iodine, oysters, very mineral looking, rough & raw, medium tannin dominated finish.?? Maybe the fruit will win after all....probably not.

1974: Dead nose. Horrible on the palate, empty alcohol, collapses immediately, avoid.

1973: Was the horror trio with 72 - 71 - 70, the best in this series. Pale very brown colour, tr. leaves, figs, dust, wilted flowers. Very ripe on the palate, some minerality, good tannin, certain elegance, very light, short, flat. Drinking.

1972: Just about drinkable.

1971: Some elegance, figs, nougat. Briefly sharp on the palate, just drinkable.

1970: Rotten cabbage. Cruel on the palate, barely drinkable. Looks like a bottle fault.

1969: Highly ripe open nose, tr. leaves, leather, nougat, moss, not quite clean?, initially some depth but oxidises quickly (sherry...Madeira). Rustic on the palate, little fruit & substance, distinct minerality, ripe decent acidity & drying tannins, rather flat structure, dusty medium finish, good for 1969. Drink

1968: Oxidised , wilted foliage & just drinkable.

1967: Stinky, cheesy, wet peat. High sharp acidity, extremely short, slight cork.

1966: Dr. herbs - parsley, mint, iron, slightly medicinal, seems emaciated. Clearly drying tannins on the palate, pointed acidity, tinny & one-dimensional, only little fruit left, parsley & mint again, meat extract,medicinal, medium long finish - disappointing for 1966. drinking.

1965: Emaciated, wilted leaves & flowers, tr. rose petals, touch of fig. Sweetish on the front palate but becomes more rustic & degrades towards the back, medium dry finish. surprisingly drinkable for 1965. Drinking.

1964: Open & very animalic with soy - lovage - subtle horse stable (disappears) - forest floor, touch of oriental spices, after 20 min the dentist's office comes with brute force. On the palate still some ripe red fruit - raspberry & strawberry, sherry tone, tr. dates,still has some substance, medium long good finish, drinking.

1963: Not dissimilar to the 1964 in the nose - not quite the animalistic, very deep, nice finesse, everything ripe & harmonious, cedar as well. On the palate a great Burgundy sweetness, juicy style, still clear substance, ripe but still firm structure, flatterer, fine leather aromas & cloves....cardamom, quite ripe raspberries - cherries, Burgundy style, elegant, wonderful finesse, long noble multi-layered finish. Extreme positive surprise. 2-5 years..

1962: Rotten cabbage, undrinkable. Should be much better normally.

1961: Very open minty & herbal nose, with balsamic & gamey aromas, very ripe, some nougat, overall a wonderfully deep & complex nose. On the palate deep, complex & with good balance, quite punchy & with substance, discreet Burgundian sweetness, slightly dry tannins, ripe but noticeable acidity, aromatics as in the nose, long powerful finish, but the great balance is missing, seems a bit rough & is probably in decline. 5-10 years.

1960: Cheesy flat nose - unattractive. On the palate flat, drying, cheesy, just ok.

1959: Expansive nose, hot aromas, caramel, pickled red fruits, relatively weighty & slightly alcoholic, lots of fresh & dried mountain herbs in the background, eucalyptus. On the palate very powerful, alcoholic, reminiscent of rum - cognac, rum pot, distinct, caramel,, volatile acidity, discreet tannin, restless....s even a bit hollow...tangy.?? possibly bottle not well stored.

1958: grassy & green looking, vegetal notes, hay. On the palate strong drying, alcoholic, one-dimensional, short, still ok.

1957: dense nose of block malt & burnt sugar, riccola, dark ripe rum - has something of a ripe Sauternes when you smell it & close your eyes. Fresh acidity on the palate, some minerality, block malt notes, no more substance, short, ok.

1956: ethereal, foliage, minimal tanned fruit, tr. peterle. Sharp on the palate, unclean - not drinkable.

1955: delicate ripe nose, very complex, ripe red fruits, dark berry fruit - touch of blackberry & currant, spicy, balanced, tr. figs, branches. Great balance on the palate, matured with style & size, almost perfect interplay of acidity - tannin - alcohol, lots of leather - cigar box - old balsamic, black ripe fruit, plums, subtle meat extract note, incredible finesse, on point, this bottle beats 1959 & 1961! Vital & nervy wine. Grandiose! Another 10 years with top storage.

1954: cheesy, oxidised, leafy. On the palate much volatile, attic smell, no.

1953: initially much volatile acidity & dusty, earthy, wilted flowers, foliage, prunes, still some cassis. Great balance on the palate, subtle underlying minerality, light style, silky, very similar in style to 1955 just a weight class below, plummy slightly chocolatey nuances again, wonderful long filigree finish. another 5+ years.


1952: rotten cabbage, block malt, balsamic - very one-dimensional & not quite clean. Better on the palate - rustic but clean, drying with slightly sharp acidity, short, still drinkable.

1951: almost dead, withered leaves. Short on the palate - aggressive tannin & sharp acidity.

1950: undrinkable.

1949: expansive incredibly complex nose, lots of bitter chocolate, porty, plum jam, tar, black olives, an incredible depth & complexity, also tea & oregano. On the palate silky & velvety, terrific balance, again bitter chocolate & some port, black cherry flavours, marzipan, spicy, pure elegance & finesse, slightly drying on the back palate, extremely long & complex finish, terrific! Another 5-6 years at this level.

1948: rather discreet cool ethereal nose - the pure opposite of 1949, menthol & peppermint, hint of some leather. On the palate drier & dustier than 1949 - but similar in style, mineral, already a bit further, leather, figs, ripe discreet red fruit, also a great wine - the little brother of the 1949. another 3-5 years.

1947: massive & even more expansive than 1949, ripe vintage port, darkest dark chocolate with black cherries, rum, tr. plums, elderberry juice, some fresh nutmeg & juniper, you could breathe in the scent for hours. On the palate clear & pure as it almost can't be better, everything that is in the nose comes back exactly on the palate, even more vital & with more substance than in 1949, structure without end, long...long....with a very porty finish & a hint of oxidation which suits the wine though. Again absolutely terrific! Another 5-10 years.

1946: Dentist's office, medicinal, cough syrup. Sharp - acid & not drinkable.

1945: very restrained with some chocolate, tr. herbs, leather, touch of oriental spices, gets a bit better with air. On the palate compact, dense but also rather rustic, cassis, pencil, cedar, nougat & touch of bitter chocolate, punch, power, grainy tannin, ripe acidity, balance clearly missing, not the depth & complexity of 1949-47, very long rich finish. great but not a great bottle - bad bottle? Another 10-15 years.

1944: pure cooked lentils, smoky, dates, one-dimensional nose. Lentils again on the palate, much deeper & more complex than the nose, fresh acidity, some power, angular, tr. figs, wilted leaves, slight sherry note, ok.

1943: unclean, medicinal, iodine, metallic. Ditto on the palate, sharp acidity, extremely volatile.

1942: unclean, medicinal, wet musty forest floor, woody. On the palate better with some juiciness, dusty tannins, still good to drink, medium finish.

1941: stinky, cheesy, plastic, undrinkable.

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