Tasting: Village wines

Mostly completely underestimated

13 Feb, 26

of Marcus Hofschuster in Tasting

You get the most wine for your money between ten and 20 euros per bottle. So it's a good idea to stick to village wines. We blind tasted around 300 of them from Germany and Austria.

It sounds a bit paradoxical: we hear everywhere that the sales crisis in wine community is having a particularly strong impact on the so-called "mid-price segment", and here mainly in the region between ten and 20 euros per bottle. Yet this is precisely the price range in which you get the most wine for your money.

At least if you know where. In this context, it's not the worst idea to stick to the village wine category, which was rediscovered in Germany and Austria not so long ago. After all, the second level of the pyramid of origin, known from the French wine hierarchy and especially from Burgundy, is not really new here either. If you look at historical wine lists, you will realise that village wines (French "villages") were once widespread, famous, and expensive in Germany. A Würzburg, Rüdesheim, Assmannshäuser or Forster wine could be the most expensive wine on the menu—more expensive than today's much more famous French growths. The origin was a guarantee of quality far above the grape variety. In the English-speaking world, "Hochheimer" even changed from "Hockamore" to "Hock", a synonym for German white wine—regardless of its origin.

After the world wars, the predicate system based on the sugar content of the grapes at harvest also replaced the pyramid of origin in the dry sector. With the wine law of 1971, the idea of origin was lost through the extension of vineyard designations to less suitable areas and the introduction of large vineyards without any claim to typicity. From then on, even the palest litre wines could adorn themselves with grandiose vineyard names—and often still do today.

Village wines, on the other hand, are a completely different matter where they are taken seriously. Not only do you often get excellent quality with village wines, but ideally they reflect their origin so clearly that—as in Burgundy—you can taste them quite reliably even without looking at the label. The new village wines are therefore not simply a quality level, but rather a commitment: to origin, home—to terroir.

Last year, we tasted around 300 village wines from Germany and, to a lesser extent, from Austria. Not least for technical reasons, we were only able to include those wines that are explicitly labelled as "Ortswein", which is why we mainly list wines that have been classified as village wine in a corresponding association classification. In some cases, however, the designation is misleading. Some wines in our list are on the same level as wines from top vineyards in the winery hierarchy. They had to be downgraded to village wine, for example, because the respective grape varieties may not be offered with a vineyard designation due to association regulations, or because it is a cuvée of wines from different vineyards in one village. The wine designation rarely helps here by providing additional information such as "Reserve" or "Goldkapsel— but the price usually speaks a clear language.

Most genuine village wines have one thing in common: they offer a lot of wine for the money.

Tasting: Village wines Riesling

Weingut Nik Weis - Sankt-Urbans-Hof — Mosel 2023 Ockfen Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Neuwiese" 91 WP excellent 32.00 €

Weingut Nik Weis - Sankt-Urbans-Hof — Mosel 2023 Schoden Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Saarfeils Finale" 91 WP excellent 32.00 €

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf — Nahe 2024 Bingerbrück Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "1937" 91 WP excellent 35.00 €

Weingut Haart — Mosel 2020 Piesport Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Piesporter Réserve" 90 WP excellent 21.00 €

Weingut Leitz — 2024 Rüdesheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Magic Mountain" 90 WP excellent 18.50 €

Weingut Peter Lauer — Mosel 2024 Ayl Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Faß N°6 - SENIOR" 16.90 €

Schloßgut Diel — Nahe 2023 Dorsheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Eierfels®" 90 WP excellent 23.00 €

Weingut Nik Weis - Sankt-Urbans-Hof — Mosel 2024 Ockfen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 25.00 €

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff — 2024 Wachenheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Nik Weis - Sankt-Urbans-Hof — Mosel 2023 Mehring Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Am Wasserlauf" 89 WP very good 32.00 €

Weingut Clemens Busch — Mosel 2024 Pünderich Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "vom blauen Schiefer" 89 WP very good 24.50 €

Weingut Fritz Haag - Dusemonder Hof — Mosel 2018 Brauneberg Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "J" 89 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Nik Weis - Sankt-Urbans-Hof — Mosel 2023 Piesport Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Mutter Gottes" 89 WP very good 32.00 €

Weingut Nik Weis - Sankt-Urbans-Hof — Mosel 2024 Mehring Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 89 WP very good 19.00 €

Weingut Peter Lauer — Mosel 2024 Ayl Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Faß N° 4" 16.90 €

Weingut Jülg — 2023 Schweigen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 17.00 €

Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich — Nahe 2024 Bockenau Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Schiefergestein" 89 WP very good 25.00 €

Weingut Peter Lauer — Mosel 2024 Ayl Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Faß N°25" 16.90 €

Schloßgut Diel — Nahe 2023 Burg Layen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 16.50 €

Weingut Van Volxem — Mosel 2023 Wawern Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "im Atrium" 19.90 €

Weingut Achim Ritter und Edler von Oetinger — 2024 Erbach Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 88 WP very good 19.00 €

Weingut Markus Huber — Lower Austria/Niederösterreich 2024 Traisental DAC Reichersdorf Riesling Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 88 WP very good 16.00 €

Weingut Nelles — Ahr 2023 Heimersheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein Alte Reben 88 WP very good 12.50 €

Weingut Meyer-Näkel — Ahr 2024 Dernau Riesling VDP.Ortswein 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann — 2023 Schnait Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 14.50 €

Weingut Clemens Busch — Mosel 2024 Pünderich Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "vom roten Schiefer" 88 WP very good 17.50 €

Weingut Christoph Edelbauer — Lower Austria/Niederösterreich 2024 Kamptal DAC Langenlois Riesling Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Rings — 2024 Kallstadt Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good

Weingut Peter Lauer — Mosel 2024 Ayl Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Faß N° 3" 16.90 €

Weingut Balthasar Ress — 2024 Rüdesheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 16.00 €

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff — Rheinhessen 2024 Westhofen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Emrich-Schönleber — Nahe 2024 Monzingen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Halgans" 88 WP very good

Weingut Emrich-Schönleber — Nahe 2024 Monzingen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Frühtau" 88 WP very good

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff — Nahe 2024 Schlossböckelheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Müller-Catoir — 2024 Haardt Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 18.60 €

Weingut Leitz — 2024 Rüdesheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 13.50 €

Weingut Pfeffingen — 2024 Ungstein Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "Terra Rossa" 88 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Robert Weil — 2024 Kiedrich Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 22.50 €

Weingut Peter Lauer — Mosel 2024 Ayl Riesling VDP.Ortswein "Faß N° 2" 16.90 €

Weingut S.A. Prüm — Mosel 2024 Graach Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 19.50 €

Weingut A. J. Adam — Mosel 2024 Dhron Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 20.00 €

Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. v. Bassermann-Jordan GmbH — 2024 Forst Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. v. Bassermann-Jordan GmbH — 2024 Deidesheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 14.50 €

Weingut Georg Mosbacher — 2023 Forst Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken "BASALT" 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt GmbH — Mosel 2023 Wiltingen Riesling VDP.Ortswein trocken 15.00 €

All wines

Tasting: Village wines White wines Pinot varieties

Weingut May — Franconia/Franken 2023 Retzbach Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 92 WP excellent 52.00 €

Weingut Rudolf Fürst — Franconia/Franken 2023 Astheim Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken "R" 91 WP excellent 85.00 €

Battenfeld-Spanier — Rheinhessen 2023 Mölsheim Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken 91 WP excellent 50.00 €

Weingut Friedrich Becker — 2022 Schweigen Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 90 WP excellent 24.00 €

Kühling-Gillot — Rheinhessen 2023 Oppenheim Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 90 WP excellent 50.00 €

Weingut J. Neus — Rheinhessen 2023 Ingelheim Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein 89 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Bergdolt - St. Lamprecht — 2023 Kirrweiler Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken "Tempus" 89 WP very good 25.00 €

Weingut Heitlinger — Baden 2022 Tiefenbach Pinot Gris VDP.Ortswein trocken Reserve 89 WP very good 22.00 €

Weingut Jülg — 2024 Schweigen Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 24.00 €

Weingut Müller-Catoir — 2024 Neustadt Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "V" 89 WP very good 22.80 €

Weingut Heitlinger — Baden 2023 Hilsbach Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken Reserve 89 WP very good 22.00 €

Weingut Bernhart — 2024 Schweigen Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "Kalkmergel" 14.00 €

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer — Ahr 2023 Neuenahr Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein "Goldkapsel" 88 WP very good 20.00 €

Weingut Bergdolt - St. Lamprecht — 2024 Kirrweiler Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "Mineral" 88 WP very good 14.80 €

Weingut Wolfgang Maitz — Styria/Steiermark 2022 Südsteiermark DAC Ehrenhausen Morillon Ortswein trocken STK 88 WP very good 19.00 €

Weingut Jülg — 2022 Schweigen VDP.Ortswein trocken "Calcaire Blanc" 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Weingut Friedrich Becker — 2022 Schweigen Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 25.00 €

Weingut Bercher — Baden 2024 Burkheim Grauburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 10.20 €

Weingut Dr. Heger — Baden 2023 Ihringen Grauburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 15.50 €

Weingut Bercher — Baden 2024 Burkheim Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 10.20 €

Weingut Blankenhorn — Baden 2023 Schliengen Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 19.90 €

Weingut Peter Wagner — Baden 2023 Oberrotweil Chardonnay Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good Up to 25.00 €

Weingut Müller-Catoir — 2024 Neustadt Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken "V" 88 WP very good 22.80 €

Weingut Müller-Catoir — 2024 Haardt Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 18.60 €

Weingut Bernhart — 2023 Schweigen Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken "Tonmergel" 19.50 €

Weingut Dr. Wehrheim — 2023 Birkweiler Chardonnay VDP.Ortswein trocken "Keuper" 88 WP very good 18.90 €

Weingut Heitlinger — Baden 2021 Hilsbach Pinot Blanc VDP.Ortswein trocken Reserve 88 WP very good 22.00 €

Weingut Gross — Styria/Steiermark 2023 Südsteiermark DAC Ehrenhausen Weißburgunder Ortswein trocken STK 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Weingut Münzberg, Lothar Keßler & Söhne GbR — 2024 Godramstein Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "Löß-Lehm" 88 WP very good 14.50 €

Weingut Münzberg, Lothar Keßler & Söhne GbR — 2024 Godramstein Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "Kalkgestein" 88 WP very good 14.50 €

Weingut Hans Wirsching KG — Franconia/Franken 2024 Iphofen Weißburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 12.00 €

Weingut Neumeister — Styria/Steiermark 2024 Vulkanland Steiermark DAC Straden Weißburgunder Ortswein trocken STK 88 WP very good 15.00 €

All wines

Tasting: Village wines Silvaner

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2024 Sulzfeld Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 90 WP excellent 17.00 €

Weingut Bischel — Rheinhessen 2024 Gau-Algesheim Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken "Terrassen" 90 WP excellent 18.50 €

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2024 Sulzfeld Blauer Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2024 Sulzfeld Roter Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2024 Sulzfeld Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 13.00 €

Weingut Heiligenblut — Rheinhessen 2023 Heimersheim Silvaner Ortswein 88 WP very good 18.90 €

Weingut Hans Wirsching KG — Franconia/Franken 2024 Iphofen Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken "K" 88 WP very good 12.00 €

Weingut Rainer Sauer — Franconia/Franken 2024 Escherndorf Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Weingut May — Franconia/Franken 2024 Retzstadt Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 14.50 €

Weingut Höfler — Franconia/Franken 2024 Michelbach Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken "Urgestein" 88 WP very good 12.00 €

Weingut Horst Sauer — Franconia/Franken 2024 Escherndorf Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 11.00 €

Staatlicher Hofkeller — Franconia/Franken 2024 Würzburg Silvaner VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 12.00 €

All wines

Tasting: Village wines Other white varieties

Weingut Wolfgang Maitz — Styria/Steiermark 2022 Südsteiermark DAC Ehrenhausen Sauvignon Blanc Ortswein trocken STK 89 WP very good 19.00 €

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2024 Sulzfeld Gelber Muskateller VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Markus Huber — Lower Austria/Niederösterreich 2024 Traisental DAC Reichersdorf Grüner Veltliner Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 89 WP very good 16.00 €

Weingut Neumeister — Styria/Steiermark 2024 Vulkanland Steiermark DAC Straden Gelber Muskateller Ortswein trocken STK 89 WP very good 15.00 €

Weingut Egon Schäffer GbR — Franconia/Franken 2023 Dettelbach Scheurebe VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 88 WP very good 10.00 €

Weingut Pfeffingen — 2024 Ungstein Scheurebe VDP.Ortswein trocken "SP" 88 WP very good 19.00 €

Weingut K. & G. Strauss — Styria/Steiermark 2023 Südsteiermark DAC Gamlitz Sauvignon Blanc Ortswein trocken 87 WP very good

Weingut Egon Schäffer GbR — Franconia/Franken 2024 Escherndorf Müller-Thurgau VDP.Ortswein trocken Alte Reben 87 WP very good 10.00 €

Weingut Egon Schäffer GbR — Franconia/Franken 2022 Dettelbach Scheurebe VDP.Ortswein Alte Reben 87 WP very good 9.90 €

Weingut Brandl — Lower Austria/Niederösterreich 2024 Kamptal DAC Zöbing Grüner Veltliner Ortswein trocken "Terrassen" 10.40 €

Weingut Gross — Styria/Steiermark 2023 Südsteiermark DAC Gamlitz Gelber Muskateller Ortswein trocken STK 87 WP very good 19.00 €

Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder — 2023 Schozach Sauvignon Blanc VDP.Ortswein trocken ** 87 WP very good 9.30 €

Weingut K. & G. Strauss — Styria/Steiermark 2024 Südsteiermark DAC Gamlitz Sauvignon Blanc Ortswein trocken 87 WP very good Up to 12.10 €

Weingut Schwab — Franconia/Franken 2024 Thüngersheim Scheurebe VDP.Ortswein trocken 87 WP very good

Weingut Neumeister — Styria/Steiermark 2024 Vulkanland Steiermark DAC Straden Sauvignon Blanc Ortswein trocken STK 87 WP very good 18.00 €

Staatlicher Hofkeller — Franconia/Franken 2024 Würzburg Müller-Thurgau VDP.Ortswein trocken 87 WP very good 11.00 €

All wines

Tasting: Village wines Pinot Noir

Weingut Franz Keller — Baden 2023 Oberrotweil Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein 91 WP excellent 32.00 €

Weingut August Kesseler — 2023 Assmannshausen Pinot Noir VDP.Ortswein trocken "Cuvée Max Alte Reben" 89 WP very good 60.00 €

Hessische Staatsweingüter GmbH Kloster Eberbach — 2022 Assmannshausen Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 17.50 €

Weingut Friedrich Becker — 2019 Schweigen Pinot Noir VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 24.00 €

Weingut Meyer-Näkel — Ahr 2023 Ahrweiler Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein "Grauwacke" 89 WP very good 29.00 €

Weingut Meyer-Näkel — Ahr 2023 Dernau Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein "Blauschiefer" 89 WP very good 29.00 €

Weingut Jülg — 2023 Schweigen Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 89 WP very good 29.00 €

Weingut August Eser — 2019 Mittelheim Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 10.90 €

Weingut Bercher — Baden 2021 Jechtingen Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 11.00 €

Weingut J.J. Adeneuer — Ahr 2023 Ahrweiler Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2023 Sulzfeld Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Peter Wagner — Baden 2023 Oberrotweil Spätburgunder Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good Up to 25.00 €

Weingut Dr. Wehrheim — 2022 Siebeldingen Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "Muschelkalk" 88 WP very good 23.00 €

Weingut Dautel — 2023 Cleebronn Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 14.90 €

Weingut August Kesseler — 2023 Assmannshausen Pinot Noir VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 25.00 €

Staatlicher Hofkeller — Franconia/Franken 2023 Großheubach Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 13.80 €

All wines

Tasting: Village wines Other red varieties

Weingut Deutzerhof — Ahr 2023 Mayschoss Frühburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken "A&O" 89 WP very good 26.00 €

Weingut J. Neus — Rheinhessen 2023 Ingelheim Frühburgunder VDP.Ortswein 88 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Zehnthof - Luckert — Franconia/Franken 2023 Sulzfeld Frühburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 21.00 €

Weingut Kreuzberg — Ahr 2023 Walporzheim Frühburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 27.00 €

Weingut Steintal — Franconia/Franken 2022 Klingenberg Cabernet Franc VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 29.00 €

Weingut Kistenmacher-Hengerer — 2022 Heilbronn Merlot VDP.Ortswein trocken "Henri" 88 WP very good 19.90 €

Weingut Deutzerhof — Ahr 2022 Mayschoss Dornfelder VDP.Ortswein trocken "PURPUR" 88 WP very good 18.00 €

Weingut Kistenmacher-Hengerer — 2019 Heilbronn Lemberger VDP.Ortswein trocken "IV", von alten Reben 88 WP very good 13.90 €

Weingut Karl Haidle — 2023 Stetten Lemberger VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good

Staatlicher Hofkeller — Franconia/Franken 2022 Dorfprozelten Frühburgunder VDP.Ortswein trocken 88 WP very good 13.20 €

All wines

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	100 WP unique Wines that can only be made differently, but not better.
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Tasting: Village wines

Mostly completely underestimated

Tasting: Village wines Riesling

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Tasting: Village wines Other white varieties

Tasting: Village wines Pinot Noir

Tasting: Village wines Other red varieties

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EVENTS NEAR YOU

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75-79 WP passable

70-74 WP schwach

60-69 WP insufficient

50-59 WP unacceptable

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You can also use our powerful search function with many flexible filters, such as:

Wine tastings

Wine producers

Wine regions

find+buy wine search engine

Business directory wine

Places

Lexicon

News & stories

Events

Tasting: Village wines

Mostly completely underestimated

Tasting: Village wines Riesling

Tasting: Village wines White wines Pinot varieties

Tasting: Village wines Silvaner

Tasting: Village wines Other white varieties

Tasting: Village wines Pinot Noir

Tasting: Village wines Other red varieties

Related Magazine Articles

EVENTS NEAR YOU

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