Martin Foradori, current owner of the Josef Hofstätter Winery, has the great fortune to have the best Pinot Noir sites in South Tyrol at his disposal in Mazzon, and he manages this heritage masterfully. Mazzon is the Pinot Noir Grand Cru of South Tyrol. The Mazzon sites are geologically characterised by sandstones, reddish and yellow siltstones, limestones as well as marls and dolomites and are climatically characterised by the fact that the sun only appears here from midday. This results in a relatively fresh climate that allows Pinot Noir to develop the refinement and elegance that distinguishes it. The first Pinot Noir vines on the present Foradori estate were planted in the mid-19th century by Ludwig Barth von Barthenau (and the Villa Barthenau on the Urbanhof was named after him). The wines regularly achieved high awards at regional presentations, and certainly they were good. That they were the equal of great wines from Burgundy must be doubted.
The Pinot Noirs produced in the 60s and 70s of the last century certainly were not. The yields were too high, and there was no demand for really good qualities back then. Pinot Noir was something like a somewhat stronger Vernatsch, which was nothing special in view of the Vernatsch qualities at that time. Nowadays, top Pinot Noirs are produced in Mazzon, and this is mainly thanks to the Hofstätter winery. They were the first to recognise the potential here and turn it into a wine with the Riserva Urbanhof, which can stand up to any comparison with excellent wines from Burgundy. The vine material consists mostly of old vines that grow on pergolas - untypical for today's quality wine production. However, due to the age of the vines, top qualities are no problem here, even with this vine training. In the hot years that have been increasing recently, the Pergel even has certain advantages, as it gives the grapes a shady place. In the end, it is the quality in the glass that is decisive, and that speaks for itself with the Riserva Urbanhof.
The Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano lies in the heart of the vineyards around the Ansitz Barthenau near Mazzon. The soil is a conglomerate of clay, limestone and porphyry, and some of the vines are over 65 years old.
1992 Pinot Nero Villa Barthenau
93 Very present, somewhat smoky and moderately wood-spicy nose of red berries and some cassis with mineral notes, some foliage, earthy nuances, lots of tobacco and a hint of root vegetables. Firmly wrought in the mouth, juicy, smoky and very mineral, notes of undergrowth and foliage, amazing acid bite, leafy and cigar-box reminiscent notes, fine, still firm tannin, amazing freshness, good depth, very good finish. Through 2017+.
1997 Pinot Nero Villa Barthenau
89 Somewhat cedary nose of blueberries and wild strawberries with floral and delicately nutty traces, tobacco, vegetal notes reminiscent of beetroot and some minerality in the background. Powerful and melting in the mouth, tobacco notes and wood aromas, in addition earthy-mineral notes, fine, still relatively present tannin, candy tones and a hint of caramel, also smoky notes, good persistence, has melting, very good finish. Through 2016+.
1999 Pinot Nero Villa Barthenau
91 Clean, candied-nutty bouquet with aromas of red and black berries with delicate toasty notes, some tobacco and minerality. Very clear and straightforward in the mouth, notes of smoke, tobacco and a hint of leather, plus mushrooms and undergrowth, fine, lively tannin and some acidity, toasty hints, fine sandy tannin, lasting, some depth, very harmonious, animating, very good finish. Until 2017+.
2000 Pinot Nero Villa Barthenau
93+ Clear, quite cool nose of partly preserved red berries with a hint of tobacco, a touch of butter, dried flowers and mineral tones. Firm in the mouth, partly tart, partly somewhat jammy fruit, delicately smoky and tobacco, clear, partly earthy minerality, some cigar box, has grip, cool and warm notes at the same time, multi-layered and deep on the palate, yet not fully developed, seems more like in an intermediate phase, still gains with air, very good to long finish. 2015-2025+.
2002 Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof
93 Cool, finely spicy, herbal and very mineral nose with leafy notes reminiscent of rosewood, lychee and floral nuances. Firm, dense and juicy in the mouth, fine acidity and lots of minerality, light tannin on the palate, candy notes and spicy tones, persistent, deep and with grip, still seems very young, powerful but not heavy, long finish. Impressive. Until 2020+.
Unusual: Top quality from the Pergel - facilities of the Urbanhof in Mazzon (Source: Roland Brunner) |
The Josef Hofstätter Winery in the Wine Guide
When the South Tyrolean quality wine revolution began at the end of the 1980s, Franz Haas was one of the high-flyers. He took over his parents' winery and in a very short time, with a great deal of expertise, passion, ambition and, above all, never-ending self-criticism, turned it into one of South Tyrol's leading businesses. Franz Haas is a fanatic in the eternal search for perfection. Where others would sit back and relax and let their marketing department proclaim the superior quality of their wines, for Franz Haas the search for top quality really begins. And this search leads not only to wines of exceptional quality, but also to very distinctive wines.
One of these is Manna, a white wine cuvée named after Franz Haas' wife Luisa Manna. It is made from the grape varieties Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gerwürztraminer and was created out of the desire to create a wine that perfectly accompanies an entire menu by bringing out one of its facets in the four different grape varieties for each dish served. The vineyards are located in the municipalities of Montan, Neumarkt and Aldein at altitudes between 350 and 850 metres above sea level and face southwest. The vines grow on dolomite, porphyry, sand and marl soils.
2007 Manna
92 Clear, restrained, fine fragrance of citrus fruits, pome fruits and some dried herbs with a hint of tobacco, traces of honey and distinct minerality. Firmly woven, with melting and power, but also polish, fine herbal and earthy tones, a hint of juniper and again a lot of minerality, overall bone dry and yet fine-juicy, elegant style, lasting, with air more and more complex, very good finish. Until 2020+.
2006 Manna
86 Aroma of quince, some laurel, citrus fruits and a little juniper with vegetal and floral tones and minerality. Slightly ripe, tart fruit in the mouth, vegetal to herbal and gently earthy tones, fine, quite present acidity, nut flavours in the background, limited depth, good finish. Through 2014+.
2005 Manna
91 Almost a little creamy nose of partly dried stone fruit and quince with mineral and earthy notes and a hint of caramel. Powerful and melting in the mouth, ripe fruit with candy notes and some wood spice, some juniper and dried flowers in the background, very fine acidity, persistent on the palate, good depth, tightens up with air, clearly mineral and dried herbal notes, a hint of nougat, very good finish. Until 2016+.
2004 Manna
90 Cool, clear and lively citrus-quince scent with fine dried-herb notes, minerality and a hint of tobacco. Polished, fine juicy fruit, very fine acidity, vegetal nuances and a little candy on the palate, dried--herbal to tobacco hints, persistent on the palate, a hint of juniper, very good finish. Through 2015+.
2003 Manna
87 Somewhat earthy aroma with vegetal notes reminiscent of cabbage and yellow fruits and soup herbs in the background. Melting fruit with some candy and vegetal tones, nutty and woody hints, moderate acidity, good substance and persistence, has melt but also cool notes, flavours of rosewood, citrus peel and lychee, some Traminer bitterness, good to very good finish. Through 2015+.
2002 Manna
87 Delicately nutty aroma of melon, quince and citrus with some caramel and lychee notes. Melting to creamy and distinctly woody in the mouth, ripe round fruit with candy notes, light tannin on the palate, flavours of dried herbs and orange peel in the background, earthy mineral tones, very good finish. Through 2014+.
2001 Manna
82-85 Already clearly matured, slightly woody and earthy-vegetable nose with notes of soup herbs, restrained yellow fruits and notes reminiscent of veal. Also already clearly developed and slightly drying in the mouth, leafy and somewhat salty tones, not too deep anymore, decent to good finish. Tasted from 3 bottles, which differed greatly in their state of development. Drinking.
2000 Manna
92 Slightly mature, nutty and somewhat reminiscent of bacon as well as fennel and caraway with citrus notes, lychee and quince, rosewood, a hint of tobacco and mineral tones. Clear, ripe and melting, also spicy fruit with light wood tones, some juniper, again fennel and a hint of smoke, very fine acidity, dry herbs and minerality on the palate, has power but also polish and still freshness, very good finish. Until 2015.
1999 Manna
87 Tart, dried-leafy aroma of fennel and some tobacco with notes of citrus, lychee and pome fruit. Tart also in the mouth, yellow-fruity and dried-vegetable, fine, lively acidity, very light tannin, citrus tones and a hint of whisky on the palate, matured but still nice to drink, good finish. Drink.
The red wine that Franz Haas put to the "test of maturity" was the Merlot "Schweizer", a selection of the best grapes that grow in the Castelfeder vineyard in the municipality of Montan as well as in Neumarkt at 250 to 300 metres above sea level on weathered porphyry soils and sandy loess-loam soils facing south and southwest. "Actually not the right soils for a really great Merlot," says Franz Haas, revealing doubts in conversation "whether the world" really needs this wine in view of the growths made from this grape variety in Pomerol." The Merlot "Schweizer" is certainly not a Château Pétrus. It is not at all comparable to wines from other origins. But that is precisely what makes it so likeable and also unique: it does not copy anything unattainable, but tastes unmistakably like South Tyrol, and at a top level - what more could you want.
2004 Merlot "Swiss
89 Firm aroma of mixed berries, especially mulberries as well as a hint of plums with cedar notes, a little raw meat and a hint of mixed pickles. Clear, juicy and firm in the mouth, tart fruit with some acid bite and moderate wood spice, fine sandy tannin, cool earthy mineral spice on the palate, again some meat, plus peppers, very good cool juicy finish. Until 2018+.
2003 Merlot "Swiss
88 Tart berry scent with sour cherry and cassis notes, floral nuances and herbal traces as well as cedar and minerality. Clear, tightly woven and surprisingly cool in the mouth, earthy notes and a hint of cedar, fine, firm tannin, almost radiant fruit on the palate, lots of freshness and life, mineral tones, elegant style, very good finish. Until 2016+.
1997 Merlot "Swiss
90 Aged, fruity and spicy bouquet with notes of dried tomatoes and peppers, some cedar, graphite and earthy minerality. Clear, juicy, again ripe fruit in the mouth, slightly vegetal and earthy, hardly any wood, has melting but also some acid bite, fine grip, mineral tones, certain elegance, very harmonious and animating, very good finish. Until 2015+.
1996 Merlot "Swiss
86 Rather green fragrance with berry tones, paprika, tobacco and tones reminiscent of soup herbs. Tart in the mouth, fruity but also with green pepper spice, has polish and some bite, some minerality, good persistence, a touch of sandy tannin, still nice to drink, good to very good finish. Through 2014+.
1994 Merlot "Swiss
90 Aroma of red berries and a little plum with cedary notes, a hint of mixed pickles, black olives and tobacco. Clear, spicy and quite juicy fruit in the mouth, a touch of rock candy, moderate wood, cedar notes, pepper and dried herbs on the palate, friable, fine sandy tannins on the palate, fine bite and animating juiciness, shows origin and variety, very good finish. Until 2016+.
1993 Merlot "Swiss
88 Aroma of mixed berries with quite fine vegetal spice as well as dry herbs, lots of tobacco and some cedar. Finely spicy in the mouth, again tobacco and cedar, plus coffee and earthy notes, moderate wood, a hint of dried black fruit on the palate, persistent, good depth, noble ageing sweetness, has finesse, very good finish. Drink.
1992 Merlot "Swiss
84 Vegetal scent with petrol notes and mushroom tones. Clearly matured in the mouth, lots of tobacco, friable, already somewhat melting fruit, mixed pickles next to it, slightly sandy tannin, candy notes, relatively persistent on the palate, already past the point but still nice to drink, good finish. Drink up.
Franz Haas - even the harshest critic of his own wines (Source: Roland Brunner) |