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Gantenbein Pinot BlancAfter the Pinot Blanc from Peter Wegelin, now this sweet Pinot Blanc from Gantenbein. Eleven years older - I'm almost tempted to say - and not a bit tired yet. It's a rarity - like much of what the Gantenbeins make - and it's not even listed on their website. Maybe the creative winemaker doesn't make wine like this anymore, I don't know. The bottle, which I got through ties of friendship (not directly with the winemaker), I kept for a long time, guarded and now presented to my German wine friends - as part of a tasting of more than thirty Swiss wines. It aroused astonishment, but didn't strike a chord at all. So I was able to drink the rest - probably half the bottle - myself, to enjoy it at my leisure. And I enjoyed it, the wine. No candy sweetness, no hints of botrytis, no flat ice wine sweetness - a straight wine, perhaps one could say pure, mirabelles, melons, grapefruit, pears, tangerines... I "drank" with my nose for an endless time - over and over again. Even if a few "age tones" are already noticeable, it is a wonderful nose game to which I devote a good half hour. Not enough, that's when it begins, the occupation with the wine LNR_70630

I'm alone at home, I have time to get involved, I don't have to like the wine or say anything halfway decent. I can dream into the wine alone, as deeply as I want, for as long as I want. I am infinitely grateful to my friends for - shall we say - overlooking this wine. So now I can see, see better.

And as always, when you spend more time with a good wine, you get into musing, into fantasising (it can't be the alcohol, because the wine is only 9.6%vol). It must be the mood the wine puts me in. I am not a sweet wine drinker, they have to be dry, even the whites (the reds anyway), as dry as possible. But this wine inspires me, carries me away, for more than an hour. Where to? This "where to" is probably the decisive thing, it cannot be described so simply. It is not a product of the intellect. It is another reality that appears in good wines - if you take your time and are open - from time to time, dimly, perhaps all too fleetingly, perhaps only once. It doesn't matter, this once is worth it.

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