The growing season for the 2021 vintage began in Montalcino with a moment of alarm: a night of frost from 7 to 8 April caused light to moderate damage, particularly in some of the lower-lying vineyards, which ultimately resulted in yield losses of up to 30 per cent in certain parcels. This was followed by months without rainfall, but also without any major temperature extremes, allowing the grapes to develop well and remain largely healthy until the end of July, when brief showers brought some relief, as they did again at the end of August. September was also calm and dry, with warm days and cool nights. The result was a smooth harvest of grapes in predominantly perfect condition.

The best wines of the vintage surprise with a freshness and precision that one no longer often encounters in southern Tuscany today. Many a first-class Brunello appears deceptively approachable whilst still young, yet despite their lively character, these wines possess enormous concentration, depth, and a solid structure, promising a long ageing potential even when one would prefer not to wait any longer.

However, not all 2021 Brunellos possess this freshness. Amidst all the delight at the many exceptionally successful wines of the vintage, we must not forget that we are nevertheless dealing with a very warm and dry growing season.

Around a third of all the samples submitted have an alcohol content of 15 per cent by volume or more. As much as Sangiovese can cope with higher alcohol levels, not least thanks to its natural acidity, sooner or later even it reaches its limits. Whilst some of the greatest wines of the vintage are indeed among the most powerful, quite a few 2021 Brunellos come across as rather ponderous, with notes of compote or even raisin, and high in alcohol – sometimes even at less than 15 per cent by volume.

Bitter tannins and a body that seems almost a little depleted are also present. Given the prices being asked, this is at times disappointing, if not downright frustrating.

This applies even more to the 2020 Riserva wines. The vintage is considerably less consistent than its successor. Moreover, the longer barrel ageing tends to accentuate rather than mask particularly bitter and austere elements. Whilst, as with the 2021s, a full three-quarters were awarded scores of 90 points or more, this figure stands at just two-thirds for the 2020s tasted recently – and this despite the fact that most of them are expensive Riserva or prestige bottlings.

The best among them, however, possess a density, depth, complexity, and structure that are bound to delight any Brunello fan.