Wine from Poland is currently experiencing an astonishing renaissance. Extraordinary wine bars and restaurants have established themselves in Krakow and the surrounding wine-growing region in particular. Anke Sademann was there for us.
Wine culture in Poland is already a thousand years old and dates back to the Middle Ages. According to the history books, the cradle of viticulture lies in Krakow and the surrounding area. In the capital of Lesser Poland (Małopolska), the oldest and therefore culturally most important wine-growing region, which stretches from the Carpathian Mountains to the Vistula, wine bars and wine-loving restaurants are currently springing up.
The lively university city in the south of the country was the Polish capital until 1596 and has long been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Benedictine monks of the Tyniec monastery were the first to cultivate vines on Krakow's Wawel Hill in 1044. For a long time, only the sovereigns were authorised to grant the "wzgorze winne" (vineyards). The wine trade in Krakow flourished until the 17th century and the wine cellars were full to bursting. In the 17th century, temperatures plummeted, freezing the vines and destroying 75 per cent of the vineyards. War, communism and cheap wine from Hungary led to the decline of Polish viticulture until the 1980s.
Wine culture in Poland has experienced an enormous upswing over the past five years: favourable land prices and a climate that is well suited to wine have led to Polish pioneers acquiring large areas of open land from the coast to the south between 2010 and 2020. The calcareous, loamy and sandy soils around Krakow, a flourishing domestic market and the courage of the new winegrowers are the most important parameters for the renaissance of Polish wines. The newly planted and revitalised vineyards are becoming their experimental fields.
They are succeeding: annual growth rates of around 15 per cent are allowing the trade to grow rapidly. Although the quantities are still small, the areas under cultivation are increasing, the high bottle prices continue to rise and the wine is finding more and more fans in the country. The future seems bright. Polish wines will therefore soon appear on the price lists of importers in other countries.
The Polish wine community is booming: more and more wines are appearing on the shelves of wine shops and on restaurant menus.
Anke SademannMany winemakers in Krakow have followed the example of the multi-award-winning Agnieszka Wyrobek-Rousseau. After studying in France, New Zealand, Australia and Switzerland, Poland's first female oenologist made a decisive contribution to the development of viticulture in Krakow. Many of the Polish wine pioneers continued their education abroad. The wine autodidacts and career changers are mostly involved in small, family-run wineries. Their demand is growing, even if prices are high compared to wines from Europe. In addition to the growing community of connoisseurs, it is thanks to the willingness of young winemakers to experiment and their countless, initially somewhat wild cuvées that the "Polskie Wina" continue to grow in quality, aromatic depth and balance.
Polish wines currently remain in Poland, as the small wineries only produce 5,000 to 10,000 bottles per year. Domestic wines from wineries near Krakow, such as the "Srebrna Góra" winery on the outskirts of the city or from Silberberg in the south-eastern corner of the Krakow-Częstochowa Jura, also find their way directly onto the menus of Krakow's restaurateurs - in upscale hotel kitchens and restaurants as well as in the many colourful and often hidden wine taverns. Well-trained sommeliers and shops specialising in Eastern European wines offer advice.
Traditional and innovative, robust grape varieties play a role in the Polish wine-growing topography. This mixture reflects local and international standards. European grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer or Pinot Gris also thrive in Poland, of course. Piwi varieties such as Regent, Rondo, Solaris, Hibernal and Seyval Blanc, on the other hand, are suited to the cooler climate. Sommeliers currently often recommend the Johanniter 2022 from the Winnice Kojder winery, which can be found on many maps. While sparkling and white wines initially dominated the wine lists, powerful red wines have long since been included.
All of this can be savoured in a relaxed manner in the many wine restaurants in Krakow: Most of the neo-wine bars are located in "Stare Miasto" in the Old Town around the Rynek Główny (Main Market Square), the Wawel Castle and St Mary's Church with its high church towers. The "Hejnał Mariacki" trumpet that plays there every hour is a sonorous landmark of the neighbourhood. The trendy bars are lined up in the Jewish neighbourhood of Kazimierz, which is known for its vibrant atmosphere - but there are also always new wine gems to discover in the other eight districts of Krakow. Krakow's gastronomic scene reflects the new Polish wine culture, and the demand from tourists is accelerating it: young Poles in particular are increasingly ordering local wines.
Anke Sademann
Krakowska 6 (Kazimierz)
CiutCiut is one of the best-stocked wine addresses in Kazimierz. Georgian Tornike's selection of natural Polish wines is impressive. The shop also has a wine bar where you can sample many of the wines and take a few bottles home with you.
Anke Sademann
Karmelicka 52 (Kraków Stare Miasto - Old Town)
It is a pleasure to listen to the expertise of the eloquent sommelier Kajetan Zalewski. From a selection of around 250 wines - from Polish insider wines to international treasures - the wine professional, who is well connected in the scene, recommends the vinophile accompaniment to the haute cuisine of top chef Grzegorz Fic. He has already cooked for state visits and loves seafood and shellfish. His menu offers fine dining with a Mediterranean twist and interpretations of regional specialities. Several times a year, he also offers open-air dining in the Wieliczka vineyard.
Mostowa 1 (Kazimierz)
The "BARaWINO" wine bar and boutique was opened by wine bar pioneer, sommelier and actor Marek Kondrat as a meeting place for wine fans. The selection of European wines at fair prices is excellent, while the expert advice and minimalist, modern ambience make it an emblematic place of Krakow's wine culture. There are also cheese platters with specialities from Poland, Italy and France.
Anke Sademann
Lipowa 6f (Zablocie / Podgórze)
"Krako Slow Wines" is one of the top wine addresses in a bright, post-industrial factory building near the Schindler factory in the trendy artists' neighbourhood of Zablocie. It offers a wide range of wines by the glass from the entire Carpathian region (Slovakia, Czech Republic, Austria, Hungary, Slovenia and Georgia), Polish wines, ciders and a selection of beers. Most of the wines, totalling over 100 vintages, are organically grown. In summer, the micro garden with terrace and a barbecue food truck are open.
Bożego Ciała 53 (Kazimierz)
Hardly any other gastronomic address represents the Jewish quarter more authentically than the "Hevre" in a restored synagogue with original murals. The name is derived from the Hebrew "Chewra" (congregation). Wine and cocktails are often accompanied by live music, DJ sets and art exhibitions. A cosmopolitan meeting place for locals and tourists with traditional Polish and Jewish cuisine.
Anke Sademann
Dajwór 20/LU6 (Kazimierz)
This bar for wine fans was opened by actor Maciej Stuhr to offer wines from all over the world at fair prices. These include many organic, sulphur-free and natural wines. The dimly lit, almost rustic bar occasionally hosts live concerts, which are always accompanied by tapas.
Ulica Zamoyskiego 24 (Podgórze)
The "Wine Garage Zamoyskiego" is a wine bar and restaurant hybrid. In addition to the garage wines from around 40 independent Polish winegrowers, there is also a selection of small, typically Polish dishes available à la carte. This somewhat hidden wine jewel with industrial charm is located in the cellar of a former historic police building. It is located south of the old town in the leafy Podgórze district, which is connected to the city centre via the Wawel Bridge.
Anke Sademann
Gertrudy 21 (Stare Miasto - Old Town)
The "Pod Nosem" is a classy restaurant that seems to have fallen out of time. It is located directly opposite the Wawel Castle. The interior is dominated by warm, aristocratic colours and fine materials such as wood, embroidery, velvet and marble. Head chef Przemysław Bliski serves excellent Polish cuisine with a modern twist. The international wine list is also impressive. Also perfect for lunch on the small terrace.
Rynek Główny 27, (Kraków Stare Miasto - Old Town)
The wine bar "Dzikie Wino" (Polish for "wild wine") with an integrated wine shop impresses with its atmosphere and range of wines. Located next to the imposing Piwnica pod Baranami palace on the main market square, insiders will find a repertoire with plenty of regional flair, well-chosen Polish wines and a few international options.
Anke Sademann
Świętego Jana 15 (Stare Miasto - Old Town)
The restaurant is considered the culinary pinnacle of the city. Sommelier Mateusz Blachnio prefers to accompany chef Mateusz Suliga's dishes in the elegant Artesse restaurant with "Wina Musujące" - classic sparkling wines and champagne, but also with rare Polish wines. Suliga cooks recipes as they were once prepared at the court of the last king, Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski. The "Artesse" is not only a gastronomic jewel, but also a tribute to the history of Poland.