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Gouverneurs Reserve DSC_9161No, after the excellent Pinotage, I didn't miss the chance to pour this winery's flagship wine, the "Gouverneurs Reserve". It is - how could it be otherwise - one of those Bordeaux blends (Cabernet franc 54%, Merlot 36% and Cabernet Sauvignon), which are powerful, high in alcohol with warm ostensible fruit, full-bodied, in short, the way I don't really like them. The special thing here, perhaps, is the high proportion of Cabernet franc. I involuntarily think of the Loire, which, however, manifests its special character much more clearly. It may be that in a few years, this will all become a little more playful and settle down, so that the quiet tones will also come to the fore. At the moment, this is not the case. The bouquet is well structured, perfectly orchestrated, but the wine seems to me to be almost "under power", slightly annoying, but (for the time being) wrapped in a warm, comforting envelope. This wine is - I am convinced - capable of a majority, it is even very good in its powerful way. But above all, it is - not like so many Bordeaux blends from non-Bordeaux regions - overhauled, DSC_4902overtaken by the wood. The use of barrique certainly allows fruit to play, but the game is rather ponderous; I dare even say clumsy. This could still be something, but the "governor" has to keep its reserve in the cellar for a long time, store it, mature it, let it develop. Only then will the more subtle aromas emerge, the hues - in this case not only in colour, but also in smell and taste - become more pastel, looser, less concerned with beating Bordeaux in weight. The heaviness of the earth, I believe, can still be released, can become more cheerful, more differentiated. I think I know now why I tend to avoid this type of wine - despite its undisputed qualities. Because they - so often - kill my spirit and my desire to enjoy wine in a playful way.

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