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The tasting of tens of Fino and Manzanilla in one day is really not a job that you just shake out of your sleeve. The relatively high alcohol and the often quite expressive aromas of the flor yeast force the taster to pay the utmost attention, if he does not want to overlook the subtleties or the weaknesses possibly hidden behind the prominent aromas.

However, even those who want to take a closer look at these wines privately will in all likelihood not fall for them at the first sip. Alcohol is certainly less of a problem here, as many white wines now regularly reach degrees between 13.5 and 14.5 percent, so it's not far to the 15 or 15.5 of a Manzanilla or Fino. What needs getting used to are rather the partly strong flor yeast aromas, which, besides the classical notes of fresh yeast, also contain iodine and partly strict dry herb tones. The pronounced saltiness of many of these pale sherry versions is also anything but commonplace.

But the unfamiliar character of these flavors themselves is not the only hurdle to overcome if you want to approach fino and manzanilla. Their strong presence also sometimes makes it difficult for wine lovers inexperienced in this field to distinguish the really good wines from the simple ones, since the subtle or unsubtle details that make up first-class or just weak sherry of this type are not always easy to discern behind these strict, dominant tones.

Clearly taste-defining: the flor yeast

But even the yeast tones themselves give an initial indication of how carefully the wine has been produced. Only aromas of fresh yeast indicate a good wine, notes of cornflakes or sesame are already a deficiency, even more so aromas of burnt bread crust or malt. However, some producers overdo it with the fresh yeast tones, which, quite similar to champagne or white Burgundy, can easily be mistaken for minerality and are probably emphasized for this very reason. Unfortunately, this exaggerated yeast tone all too often conceals structural weaknesses and aromatic deficits or, on the other hand, it covers up any subtleties that might be present.

Fine iodine tones, tart herbal aromas and a more or less distinct saltiness are common to all good Finos and Manzanillas. The Manzanilla is said to have a particularly pronounced saltiness due to the vineyards close to the sea. In practice, however, the distinction is usually very difficult. Even after many years of experience, people still think that Fino is generally the calmer, more serene type, while Manzanilla is a little more delicate, salty and lively, but in tasting, people often guess wrong.

The grape variety for Fino and Manzanilla: Palomino Fino

The fruit of a very good Manzanilla or Fino usually reminds of partly dried apples and, less clearly, citrus fruits. In addition to the salty tones, there can also be "stony" minerality, but here, as mentioned, one is often misled by the flor yeast tones. Nutty aromas are also part of the repertoire, but here, too, attention is needed: only fresh notes, mostly going in the direction of hazelnut, indicate good quality. Burnt nuts are already a slight fault and distinct peanut aromas usually already indicate a slightly over-aged wine. In extreme cases they increase to a tone reminiscent of rancid peanut butter.

In general, freshness is one of the main problems of these highly sensitive wines. Like champagne, Fino and Manzanilla react very sensitively to too warm storage or light. But even without harmful influences, the fresher these wines are bottled, the better. Therefore, it is essential to recruit a reliable merchant as a sherry supplier. Moreover, it can never hurt to ask concerned traders about the time of the last delivery and to wait for the next one in case of doubt. Buying in stock is only worthwhile if consumption is high and storage conditions are ideal. However, it can make sense to buy half a year's supply at once and store it safely, provided you have the means and you don't quite trust the supplier's storage conditions.

In best form Fino and Manzanilla are - apart from the rare, longer wood barrel matured and already tending towards Amontillado reserve versions - bright in appearance and crystal clear in the aromas, at the same time, despite the rather high alcohol, delicate and tremendously animating. The acidity should always be elegant, never strict and superficial. The herbal aromas should be limited to those of dried herbs and neither grassy nor vegetable - not to mention musty tones that occur now and then. While one does not expect great depth from these wines, even overly banal fruit reminiscent of simple white wine, superficially apple-like, points to overly careless production geared to simple mass tastes. Fino or Manzanilla may demand a little from its drinker, only in this way it shows its ability as an animating, palate-cleansing food companion that makes you curious for the next bite or sip. The best wines of this genre, however, do indeed possess a certain concentration and depth without losing their elegance. Moreover, they have a complexity that can only be found in other white wines in the absolute top class. Such specimens are rare, but it is worth looking out for them.

The calcareous soil of the Jerez region is called Albariza

However, you don't have to limit yourself to these by any means, if only because a concentrated, multi-layered top Fino or Manzanilla is perhaps not the ideal companion for every occasion. Apart from these rare top wines, a lot of highly enjoyable, animating and typical wines can be found. Unlike most of the world's wines, when it comes to sherry you need not fear that you will get only simple, soulless goods from the big houses. Even among some brands produced in huge quantities, you can find some absolutely reliable, sometimes excellent wines. However, sourcing is a major problem here too: neon-lit supermarket shelves are to be distrusted on principle here. Even if the shelf has been freshly filled, it is unclear how long the wine has been in the store of the retail chain or previously with the importer.

During our tasting, we had to realize that even a direct purchase from the importer is not always a guarantee for fresh goods. From some brands we got different bottlings for tasting - with partly considerably differing results. Therefore, it is also true: if your first attempt at an approach goes wrong, try again with confidence!

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