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Even though the idea of classifying vineyards by site dates back to the 1980s, the term "Erste Lage" is relatively new. Initially, the term was used for the equivalent of the First and Great Growths on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, but since a decision by the VDP general meeting in June 2006, it has been the generic term for all classified sites and their wines.

Already recognisable on the bottle: Wines from the Erste Lagen

This reorganisation was urgently needed, as the idea of classified vineyards and wines was in danger of losing its dynamism in the confusion of designations and special regulations. Although one would still like to see a little more uniformity today, the step taken in 2006 is clearly a step in the right direction. Since then, dry wines from first sites have been called "Große Gewächse" in all German wine-growing regions except the Rheingau. Only the Rheingau retained the name "Erstes Gewächs" for this category, mainly because this is a term permitted by wine law, whereas "Erste Lage" and "Großes Gewächs" have so far only existed as trademarks. Sweet and noble sweet wines from the Spätlese label upwards, on the other hand, are uniformly called "Erste Lage" in all wine-growing regions.

The dry wines are getting better and better - but are rarely really dry.

While hardly anything has changed for sweet wines since the introduction of the site classification, the situation for top dry wines has changed noticeably in recent years. Probably never before has there been such a large number of high-class dry wines in Germany. Not only is the number of classified top wines increasing; the example is also being set by the wineries not organised in the VDP, many of which are also striving to produce prestigious dry wines. Nevertheless, it is no exaggeration to say that the vast majority of the country's top dry wines bear the grape eagle on the label.

The 2007 vintage also had magnificent Bocksbeutel wines in store: in this case, the Lump-Silvaner from Juliusspital.

Conversely, however, this rule does not quite apply. There are still some producers who do not seem to have fully internalised the idea of the dry Erste Lage. There are still quite a few wines that do not deserve this noble title. Often the wines are still too simple, corresponding more to a mediocre dry Spätlese than a real Grand Cru. Again and again, attempts are made to help the wines get back on their feet by using botrytis-affected grapes. Unfortunately, in many cases this only makes them seem pumped up, not infrequently broad, clumsy and cloying. A gain in fineness, complexity and depth, as one may expect from true Great and First Growths, is rarely achieved in this way. Only very few producers seem to be able to produce first-class dry wine even from partly noble-rotten material, which one can still recognise its origin - after all, the "terroir" idea is an essential part of the classification idea.

The almost ubiquitous residual sugar in the more northerly growing regions is also not entirely unproblematic. What may still contribute to the harmony of the wines in acidic, lean Kabinett wines, often makes large-calibre top Rieslings and Burgundies seem somewhat clumsy or even obtrusively sweet. The residual sugar here all too often blurs the clear contours and turns taut individualists into almost pleasing run-of-the-mill wines. The combination with food is also made much more difficult by the palpable sweetness. Only in southern Baden and to some extent in Württemberg, Franconia and the Palatinate does one come across a noteworthy number of wines that actually taste dry. It is a mystery to me why, with such a limited top product as the Grosses and the Erstes Gewächs, one almost anxiously squints at the broad taste of customers instead of consistently focusing on character and clear expression. Most wines would certainly not need it.

Wine-Plus Editor-in-Chief Marcus Hofschuster


If appearances are not deceptive, however, wines in most regions - perhaps with the exception of the Rheingau, where a Erstes Gewächs may still contain up to 13 grams of sugar - are gradually becoming drier and drier. Despite all the necessary criticism, it remains to be said that the majority of all Grosses and Erstes Gewächs today have a certain class and do not bear the noble title for nothing. The dynamism and ambition of most producers even ensures that the qualities are still rising across the board, although the number of classified wines is also increasing significantly - a development that we know quite differently from various wine regions of the world.

In many respects, 2007 was an almost ideal year for the production of dry as well as residually sweet top wines. The vintage offered an unusually long growing season due to the early blossoming, the not too hot summer and the largely dry autumn. Those who had the courage to let their grapes hang for a long time could count on highly ripe, aromatic fruit without the sugar reaching too high and the acidity too low values. In the best wines, these characteristics are reflected not only in great complexity and depth, but also in race and elegance, even in the most powerful representatives.

2007 right up there with several world-class wines: Hans-Jörg Rebholz


The regions in detail

In all wine-growing regions, 2007 brought forth excellent wines from first sites. Among the dry representatives, the vintage undoubtedly made the greatest impression in the Palatinate, where the quality of the harvest was probably the best since 1998 - and which was possibly even better utilised than then. A whole series of producers came up with first-class Rieslings and in the south with no less impressive Pinot Blancs. If the region was particularly hard hit in 2006, compensation followed on its heels. In Rheinhessen, the two top dogs are getting Wittmann and Cellar are now facing noticeable competition, which is also due to the resurgence of the Rhine front. Above all Kühling-Gillot has an important word to say at the top this year. The Nahe has not let anything go to waste for years now, and this time, too, most of the Grosses Gewächse have real class. However, 2006 was already so impressive that it was hardly possible to improve on it.

Großes Gewächs Pfalz (Riesling, Pinot Blanc)

Großes Gewächs Rheinhessen (Riesling)

Großes Gewächs Nahe (Riesling)


Moselle

On the Mosel, the main focus is on the sweet First Growths. The best wines should be at least as good as those from 2001, but may develop even more beautifully. The Saar had an outstanding vintage, which can be seen not least in the breathtaking collection of the winery. von Othegraven collection. There is also movement in the dry and almost-dry wines. Although the winery Heymann-Löwenstein still has the lead here, but the competition never sleeps, and with its Pergentsknopp, the winery shows that Van Volxemshows that world-class dry wines can also be produced at the other end of the region.

Großes Gewächs Mosel & Saar (Riesling)

Erste Lage Mosel & Saar (residually sweet Rieslings)


Rheingau & Middle Rhine

Very strong again in 2007: Weingut Künstler from Hochheim

In the Rheingau, quality is steadily increasing across the board, but unfortunately most of the First Growths here taste distinctly sweet. It is interesting that the sweet wine specialist of all Weil of all people is now taking a different approach: his first growth is one of the few that actually tastes dry - and is nevertheless one of the best of the vintage. On the Middle Rhine, the Grosses Gewächse are still rare, but here, too, their number is increasing, and by no means at the expense of quality.

Rheingau First Growth (Riesling)

Großes Gewächs Middle Rhine (Riesling)



Franconia, Saxony & Saale-Unstrut

Even though the 2007 vintage in Franconia as a whole did not come close to the previous year's sometimes excellent results in this region, the Silvaner in particular achieved some outstanding results. Interestingly, some of the large wineries in particular stand out with magnificent wines, first and foremost the Juliusspital and Castellwhose Silvaner wines have probably never been so good. Even further east - in Saxony and on the Saale and Unstrut rivers - the wines are gaining in substance and independence: the Pinot Blanc of Proschwitz Castle has no reason to hide, nor does the Riesling from Uwe Lützkendorf.

Franconian Grand Cru (Riesling, Silvaner, Pinot Blanc)

Grand Cru Saxony (Riesling, Pinot Blanc)

Grand Cru Saale-Unstrut (Riesling, Silvaner)


Baden & Würtemberg

In Württemberg, where Rieslings often lacked character and real depth in the past, huge progress can be seen. Fortunately, some producers here have the courage to make the wines really dry - in some cases even bone dry. Schnaitmann even bone dry. It hasn't done them any harm at all. Baden is divided into a riesling-heavy north, where the "blessings" of increased residual sugar seem to be discovered more and more, and a south where Burgundy varieties play a far more important role, but where you can also find bone-dry rieslings. It is also pleasing to note that the new wood is usually used only very cautiously in the Burgundies - if at all.

Großes Gewächs Württemberg (Riesling)

Großes Gewächs Baden (Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling)

The shooting star of recent years in Württemberg: Rainer Schnaitmann

Red wines - The apprenticeship is not over yet

The opposite seems to be the case with the vast majority of red wines. Here, on a broad front, there is still more reliance on alcohol, high to overripe ripeness and sweetish wood spice. Real depth and complexity of the grape aromas are still just as rare as clear character of origin. It would be desirable if, in addition to the prices, the courage to produce wines that are truly true to their origins, full of character and independent, and that can rightly be called Grand Cru, would also increase. Of course, there are significant exceptions, but the greater part of the red Erstes Gewächse and Grosse Gewächse still remain a little uninspired, even if often on an excellent technical level. The Ahr was lucky enough to have a far above-average vintage in 2006 and is therefore way ahead, but surprisingly good qualities are also coming from the rest of the country, especially given the sometimes difficult conditions.

Großes Gewächs Ahr (Pinot Noir)

Großes Gewächs Pfalz (Pinot Noir)

Grand Cru Rheinhessen (Pinot Noir)

First Growth Rheingau (Pinot Noir)

Grand Cru Saxony (Pinot Noir)

Franconian Grand Cru (Pinot Noir)

Großes Gewächs Württemberg (Pinot Noir)

Their top Burgundies are once again magnificent this year: The Adeneuer brothers


Overall, the balance of the 2007 vintage for the "Erste Lage" is extremely positive. Especially in the dry wines, the increase in quality cannot be overlooked. About a third of the Grosses and Erste Gewächse received a rating of 90 points or more this year, while the number of wines below 85 points is now vanishingly small. It seems as if the "self-cleansing forces" so often invoked by former VDP chairman Michael Prinz zu Salm-Salm are actually taking effect. The coming vintage will probably be an important touchstone for this thesis.

Here you can download the Wein-Plus Kompakt on the topic.

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