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Never before have I been asked so often and almost bashfully: Where is this Auvergne? My answer: in the heart of France (defined geographically). In fact, we know the Michelin man far better than the region where he was born, namely in Clermont-Ferrand, the capital of Auvergne. But to wine lovers I say: on the way to Bordeaux. But is there wine there? I confess: I didn't know this either (so exactly) - although I have already leafed through the Hachette from-back-to-front and from-front-to-back umpteen times.

Pierre Goigoux, ca. 7 Euro In the new edition, it lists 45 wines under the heading Auvergne, only two with three or more stars. No wonder, wine lovers usually travel further to the Bordelais, the Loire or nearby Burgundy. They have all missed out! Not the ultimate good wine, but probably the most beautiful landscape in France and - not to forget - the best cheese. But let's stay with the wine. There is not much left in the once proud wine region. The Saint-Pourçain appellation (with arguably the best wines in the area) and the Côtes d'Auvergne with five sub-regions, very close to Clermont-Ferrand. Chanturgue is one of them, with only 6 ha. Area under vines. The growing suburbs of Clermont-Ferrand have long since swallowed up the vineyards. And - as everywhere - phylloxera has added to the problem.

In the area, the red grape varieties are mainly Gamay (usually well over 50%) and Pinot Noir. This gives a very special, somewhat peasant, somewhat unpolished wine. I have heard the term "workers' wine". In fact, Michelin workers still make wine in their own small vineyards for their own consumption.

But even this professionally made wine, from one of the most important winegrowers in the area (with around 17 ha. of vines in Auvergne) will hardly get beyond the borders. It is not made for that, but rather for quick consumption. Still violet in colour, the acidity not (yet) balanced, marked by fruit and minerality: a wine that is a lot of fun for an Auvergne feast, that does not make a name for itself, but wonderfully fresh, colourful and light.

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