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IMG_0111Laurence Graff, owner of the former winery of John Platter (South Africa's most influential wine critic) is a fine jeweller. Luxury is at home with him. Wine is his hobby, his hotel is not a hotel but a luxury lodge (room rates between 500 and 1600 euros), where each flat has its own swimming pool and every conceivable comfort. "The Delaire Graff Estate stands for luxury, relaxation and uniqueness and guarantees you an unforgettable dream trip to one of the most beautiful wine regions on earth," says an advertisement. Three weeks ago, I was still wandering around there, tasting wines, marvelling at the beauty (and luxury). Much has been done, arranged - only one thing is not, the beauty of the place, the view, the location. That's why Platter called the winery "Delaire" ("Straight from heaven"), and he's not entirely wrong. And the wine? It already impressed me at the winery, although I'm not really looking for a Bordeaux in South Africa. Have I been deceived by the luxury? So yesterday was the "acid test" - at home - far away from the celebrated luxury. It was not - as with the student rituals - about drinking empty, but about the type and content of my "drinking". The wine passed the test. It is a beautiful - let's say rather - "magnificent" drop, Bordeaux-like (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and apparently - according to the documents - seven percent Shiraz (does not belong to the Bordelais). Verwendet Delaire Graff 27.04.14A modern Bordeaux - many of my wine friends would say: a made Bordeaux, definitely suitable for the majority, but with a touch of luxury (and beauty). The luxury is in the softness, elegance and complaisance. And the price? This surprises me the most: with many South African wines it is not only moderate, even cheap, here around 20 euros. Twenty, maybe twenty-five euros for an impeccable Bordeaux (but not from Bordeaux). Robert Parker, or Neal Martin, had only 88 points for it (the only rating in 2010). My impression is that the wine comes from the "wrong" wine region, otherwise it would have reached 90 points long ago. John Platter, on the other hand (perhaps not entirely neutral), awards the 2012 4.5 stars (out of 5) and is - in my opinion - correct. The missing half star is probably due to the potential rating, because the wine still needs some cellar.

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