First appreciated by the Romans, later by the Venetian nobility and the Habsburgs: the Colli Euganei region near Venice offers interesting wines, unspoilt landscapes, wellness resorts and historic villas. A perfect destination for a short trip to Italy!
Very few people are familiar with the small, hilly wine-growing region of Colli Euganei in the northern Italian province of Padua. Even I, who travels a lot in Italy, had not been there until recently. A great omission, as it turned out. Because the hinterland of Venice, characterised by forested volcanic cones, thrilled me with its wines, its intact nature and its excellent restaurants. Oh, and not to forget: the hot thermal springs!
In the thermal baths of the Colli Euganei you can let your soul dangle.
Raffaella UsaiArriving at the chic but somewhat outdated hotel in Montegrotto Terme, I suddenly realise that the Colli Euganei are not so much known for their wines, but are all the more famous for their therapeutic healing powers. The special benefits of thermal water were already appreciated by the ancient Romans, who called their facilities "acquae patavinae " (Paduan waters). Their ancient remains can still be visited today.
With 130 thermal facilities and around 220 thermal baths as well as over 13,000 hotel beds, the region is one of the most important spa centres in Europe and attracts thousands of health tourists from home and abroad every year. So if you're interested in mud baths and inhalation therapy as well as wine, you'll feel right at home in one of the countless spa hotels.
The wine "Oltre il limite... e altro" by Giorgio Salvan is a successful example of a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Raffaella UsaiI'm not here for the water, however, but eagerly awaiting the first wines to be tasted. At the heart of the appellation are the red wine cuvées made from international grape varieties, which are marketed as Colli Euganei DOC Rosso. For many winegrowers, they are the flagship wines - and they have a remarkably good price-performance ratio. Except for the wines of the probably best-known winery Vignalta, most bottles can be had for less than 20 euros.
The classic Bordeaux grape varieties have not only been cultivated here for a few decades, like in Bolgheri. As early as 1870, the Counts Corinaldi began planting Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon on their estates in Monselice and were among the first in Italy to do so. The producers are particularly proud of this history rich in tradition. Today, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère and Raboso grow on the approximately 2,500 hectares of the wine-growing area, the latter two being blended in smaller proportions in the red blends.
In addition to the red wines, there is also the Fior d'Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG made from Moscato Giallo (Gold Muscat). It may be produced in three different versions: as a sweet sparkling wine, as a concentrated passito and as a dry wine.
Wineries like Monteversa and Maeli bottle extremely good and distinctive pet-nats from Moscato Giallo. They are fresh and aromatic, have very good grip and great acidity. For me, these "rifermentato in bottiglia" are the most expressive variety of this grape. These wines are bottled as Veneto IGT.
Fior d'Arancio Colli Euganei DOCG is produced from Moscato Giallo in three versions.
Consorzio Vini Colli EuganeiAnother speciality of the Colli Euganei is the tank-fermented Serprino DOC. It is produced from the grape variety Glera, which is also used for Prosecco. Similar to its more famous counterpart, the light, sparkling Serprino is drunk as an aperitif, but its sales are very limited locally. Some winegrowers therefore want Serprino to be recognised as a subzone of the DOC Prosecco, which is currently the subject of controversial discussion in the appellation.
I was particularly convinced by the Serprino from the Ca' della Vigna winery, a young business run by the architect couple Wim Brouwer and Catia Bolzonella.
Geologist Francesco Loreggian explains the history of the formation of the Colli Euganei in the "Muvi" museum.
Raffaella UsaiThe Colli Euganei were formed between 35 and 43 million years ago. At that time, a series of volcanic eruptions produced the hundred or so hills with their unmistakable conical profile. They are up to 600 metres high and visible far across the Po Valley. The soils here consist of hard volcanic rocks such as basalt, ryolite, trachyte and latite. Trachyte, but also limestone, was quarried in countless quarries over many centuries, and was used to build magnificent squares and palaces in nearby Venice. Trachyte quarrying was discontinued a few years ago, as was that of polishable lime marble for decorative purposes.
In the "Muvi" museum, the formation of the volcanic cones can be impressively traced. For those who want to delve deeper into the geology and history of the region, a visit is particularly worthwhile.
From the extensive terraces of the Castello del Catajo you have a magnificent view of the surrounding hilly landscape.
Raffaella UsaiEven the Habsburgs celebrated lavish parties in the Colli Euganei, as the Castello del Catajo in Battaglia Terme impressively shows. Built in 1570, the castle is considered one of the most beautiful villas in the Veneto and served first as a summer residence for the noble Este family and later for the Emperor of Austria.
A walk through the magnificent frescoed halls and the beautiful park, with its centuries-old trees and statues, is a must for anyone visiting the region. From here you can also see the Canale Battaglia, built in the 12th century, which is part of an extensive canal system that still connects Venice with Padua.
Since 1870, the village of Arquà Petrarca has borne the surname of the famous Tuscan poet Francesco Petrarca.
Raffaella UsaiFor hikers and cyclists, the 20,000-hectare nature park "Parco Regionale dei Colli Euganei" is a paradise. "Our biodiversity is impressive. Over 1,600 plant species are native here. Chestnut forests and olive groves meet typical Alpine flora, it's a very special mix that you rarely find in Italy," geologist Francesco Loreggian explains to me on a hike through the vineyards.
Also unusual are the countless jujube trees that you see on every corner, especially in the medieval village of Arquà Petrarca. Their sweetish, intensely red fruits are also known as Chinese dates or pectoral berries and are processed here into a liqueur called "Brodo di Giuggiole". If you visit Arquà Petrarca, you can't miss a glass of "breastberry soup"!